Goose Gear Rear Seat Delete

In all of my searching, I didn't really find anyone talking in-depth about the Goose Gear rear seat delete for the 3rd Gen Tacoma. Also, a lot of pictures I found were from the observer's point of view outside of the truck and in low-light. So, here are some thoughts and photos.

Firstly, while it may seem expensive--almost $1400--I think the price is worth it, albeit just barely. Obviously this is a niche product and therefore Goose Gear's market segment is incredibly small. Also, the R&D that went into this must have cost a small fortune in terms of labor, prototyping, waste material, etc. So, for those who think, "it's just marine grade plywood and bedliner," while you're not wrong it is an incredibly designed product. With that being said, if you can make your own and you don't mind the "homemade" look, you can certainly achieve something like this for much cheaper.

The whole kit was very well packed. Actually, I'm kind of surprised that Goose Gear doesn't ship direct-to-home with how light and maneuverable the whole package is. I was expecting a pallet, but the boxes actually fit in the back of my 5 ft. bed with no problem. The box had seen a little abuse, but the parts came out totally unscathed.

I have a good amount of appreciation for the locking hatches. There is almost no tolerance between the panel and the door which speaks to the quality of the design and manufacturing. Just as well, the locks and the latching mechanisms on the hatches are of very quality. I once saw a thread asking why there was latches on the doors, and my response to that is that any amount of security I can add is worth the cost. While this won't stop a determined thief with an axe or a crowbar, it will at least act as a deterrent. Personally, if I was going to steal something out of a vehicle, I would go for the glovebox and the center console... maybe look under the seats. I'm not taking the risk of breaking into the locked hatches of the seat delete if the truck is parked in an open area.

The various 1/4-20 threaded inserts that are scattered through out the panel are a nice touch. Personally, I think there could be more, but I'll take what I can get. I also appreciate the ability to use the car seat mounting points that come on the Taco from the factory. In my mind, the more flexibility I have to mount something the better.

Finally, the hardware came nicely packaged. A quick note is that the shorthand is easily understood and welcome. Originally, I had mistakenly ordered the kit for the non-power window and only after double checking did I realize my mistake. Because I didn't get a shipping manifest nor a receipt from Goose Gear, I relied upon the integrity of the dealer who sold it to me. Once I saw the hardware package labeled "T. 60 PWR BW," I was reasonably confident in the right kit being ordered.

Unfortunately, I can't get to the install this week as I need to have the interior partially disassembled for some work being done on Monday. But, I hope to get to it this coming weekend. The Epic Overland install video makes the install look incredibly easy, and I hope it is. I've already pre-assembled the infill panels and the support plates, so that is one step towards completion.

And of course, no thread is complete without photos.

 

I am thinking about doing this is my access cab. Looking forward to checking out pics of the final install.

 

As one who makes an annual prairie dog shoot trip every year, I've always been tempted to buy this setup to have more room to carry the four rifles and misc gear that it takes. I really appreciate the detailed write up and photos (although I'd say lose the hardward enclosed photos, they are just unnecessarily clogging up your post)

As Redfive mentions, also looking forward to seeing the final result and your commentary.

 

I have the Goose Gear in my AC. I love it ... it looks factory.

 

Put mine in July of 21. Only cost me about $1k though. I can't believe this kit has gone up that much. I went this route because of wood prices at the time. I know I could have built one comparable. But, wood cost and other materials to build, and then tools. I don't have a table saw. And then time to design, create, test, tweak, adjust, retest... until finally getting something I liked vs just buying this kit. It was an easy decision for me. Plus it looks really good installed, ha. The worst part of the install in my opinion, if you choose to do it, is adding sound deadening underneath it. Everyone says the cab is super loud once the back seats are removed. So I didn't want to chance it and did it before the install. Super time consuming but worth in my opinion.

 

I just ordered the Driver side Goose Gear, but for the life of me I can't find an install instruction video or even download anywhere. Do you by chance know where one would be?

 

There aren't paper instructions ... I assume they think professional installers will install it? I seem to recall I found someone on YouTube talking about how to remove the seats, then go from there.

 

At that price, I would make that assumption as well.

 

Goose Gear only sells through “dealers” which often times double as installers. So, yes; the assumption is that the dealer will install it for you.

In my main post, I linked the Epic Overland install video which takes you through the basic steps and provides some helpful tips such as putting anti-sieze on the bolts that run through the body. I also read somewhere on here that AC guys have two holes in the body that aren’t used by the delete. The poster recommended running two bolts from the underside of the body into the cab this sealing these holes.

 

Installed the kit last night and overall it went very smoothly. Some points I noted about the install are:

• Watch and reference the Epic Adventures install video before and during the install
• The long bolts will thread into the body and I recommend using anti-seize
• The short bolts will thread into the factory storage compartments under the seat and into the L-brackets supplied to connect the back wall plate to the bottom plate
• You'll need a 10mm, 12mm, 17mm (3/4 drive recommended) sockets, a 3/8 open-end wrench, scissors or a carpet knife, anti-seize, and a trim panel removal tool, eyeglass screwdriver or a really small trim panel tool to pop out the "SRS Airbag" cover that hides the bolts for the C-pillar trim
• Speaking of the C-pillar trim, just pull straight back with a good amount of a force and it will release; yes, it sounds like death, and you may break a clip or two, but otherwise it should be fine
  
• Take the seatbelts out; you won't need them... probably
  
• Pre-assemble the support plates that sit in the footwell of the rear floor; align the 60% delete support plate all the way closest to the door
• Also pre-install the infill panels if you bought them
• Loosely bolt the panels to the truck and align everything before tightening things down
• The panels are wood and will flex; only tighten the bolts down just enough to keep them from moving
• If a bolt won't thread into the body of the truck, chase the threads with a tap; chances are that something is gunking up the threads

I would highly recommend thinking about what you need or want to do to the rear before installing these panels. While this wasn't a complicated or terribly time-consuming process, the platform will impede your ability to access the C-pillar trim if you need to drop the headliner and it will cover up certain parts of the factory storage compartments under the seat. The install took about three hours when you include the pre-assemble I did in my house and the removal of the rear seats and seatbelts. I did work a little slow and I had to constantly make laps around the truck, find tools in my garage, etc. If you have a well organized space and room to move, you could probably do this in two hours.

Overall, I'm happy with the product. The delete fits me very well as I don't have kids, but I do have two dogs. I am constantly hauling expensive electronic equipment that cannot go to into the bed, so the modular 1/4-20 threaded inserts allow me to move these eye bolts around as needed in order to secure the equipment. The lockable panels allow for secure storage of sensitive items (read: firearms, electronics, etc.) and the fact that all of locks "keyed-alike," is an added bonus.

The only thing that slightly boggles me is that fact that I cannot find a MOLLE panel that works for the rear wall. In my mind, that's a significant failure on the aftermarket and Goose Gear's part. That wall is dying for MOLLE panels so that you can strap down first aid kits, fire extinguishers, whatever and because I can't find one, I have to design my own.

And with that, pics or GTFO:

 

For the people that have this seat delete, are all those small homes in the panels fitted with threaded inserts to screw on accessories and attachments?

 

I have the access cab version and yes, the small holes are threaded. I've used several for fridge tie downs and tie down points for cargo.

 

thanks brother!

 

No problem, happy to help. If I remember correctly the size for those empty/open holes 1/4"-20.

Not my pic, but from the thread: https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads...-gear-seat-delete.693081/page-6#post-26099271

I did the exact same... used those holes to put in some tie down points for a dometic fridge.






I used these and they fit perfect over some round head allen key head screws from the hardware store:

$12 JCHL Tie Down Strap Rings Dirt Bike Stainless Steel Multi-Purpose Tie Down Anchor Strapping Hooks for Mounting in The Garage, Work Shop, Truck, Trailer, Golf Cart, Fence Black (10-Pack)

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B08P73WM8C?ie=UTF8

 

Great idea! Funny enough, I keep my Snomaster fridge in back, and not always on so it's empty, and I noticed yesterday it had slide near the center. I'll do the same.

 

I highly doubt it, but is there anyone in this thread that no longer wants their seat delete kit and is looking to sell it? Looking for a double cab kit. Thank you!

 

What size fridge do you have? Thinking of getting a goose gear setup for my access cab for same reason plus keep the pooch happy.

 

Do not waste your time or money with a Goose Gear Resr Seat Delete if you have an Access cab! No instructions anywhere, no videos, and nothing helpful. They do not make it clear on their site that there is NO BACK PLATE with it either, so if you watch the Tacoma Double Cab videos and take off the FULLBACK SEAT and seltbelt, then you may have made a major mistake. I like the extra inch or so of cargo space but trying to find something to help with the road noise and fill the space has been almost impossible. Will have to spend more money on someone local to fab something to cover it up as the seat back broke when taking it out. Absolutely do not recommend wasting the $1k on the floor from Goose Gear. For that much money, you can have someone local make something much better for you!

 

Does the AC version come with the side panels? I was at the local distributor and they could not find a P/N or price for AC side panels and so they concluded that Goose Gear did not have side panels for the AC.

 

Yes they do.