Going price for 60K mile service?

Due for the 60K service (4x4) and wondering what you guys are seeing for prices out there for having a shop do it? Dealer has a 20% off for scheduled maintenance running now.

I always love the $50 air filter pitch.

 

I knock out mine over a weekend but was quoted about $1k to do it all.

 

Don’t forget to check the driver’s side floormat. Very tricky

 

They're going to bend you over for the spark plugs

 

How hard is a plug change on these guys? I do our Audi Q5 and 94 4Runner. Anything particularly frustrating here?

 

Driver side plugs suck because of the intake manifold. Gotta be a little creative if you want to avoid removing it

 

If you are somewhat handy with a wrench you can find videos on how to do everything on the 60K service. Here is how to change spark plugs. I did the driver side first because I wanted to finish with the easier passenger side.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=737qAw6Z0n0

 

$0 for me. Virtually all of that stuff says "inspect". You only replace stuff that is worn. I did that myself and nothing out of the ordinary needed replacing. I did 10K oil changes since new. I replaced plugs and serpentine belts every 100,000. Brakes and everything else as needed.

I've had my truck for 16 years. Excluding brakes, tires, batteries, and oil changes I haven't spent $1000 yet. If I'd taken my truck to the dealer for every "recommended" service, I would have paid them more for the service than I paid for the truck.

 

Are you trying to start a fight talking about 10k OCI?!?

 

nah… that’s only for severe service… most of us follow the 20k interval for oil changes.

 

I don’t know thats a big big job. Probably need to ship it back to the factory that.

 

Was wondering how most plugs in our trucks end up looking at 60K. I’m 80% highway miles.

 

On my 2.7 it took me about an hour and a half. While drinking beer and not getting my hands dirty...

 

I was quoted over $1000 for spark plugs and fuel system cleaner haha. Order the OEM plugs and follow a YouTube video and it’s honestly pretty easy.

 

Just replaced my spark plugs. 60K miles. Pretty much followed the video posted previously in this thread by TA2016. I'm handy, but not a mechanic by trade, so it took me 2.5 hours, with most of that spent on the driver's side figuring out what needed to be disconnected and what didn't, and fishing for dropped tools on the frame crossmembers! Just some observations:

-I did not remove the intake. Was able to finagle hoses, harnesses and one brake line around enough to extract and replace each of the coil boots. Be very careful when "finagling" all of these parts so as not to crack or break them. I did not gap the new plugs.

-Take pictures, especially of the driver's side so that you know how to reassemble everything.

-Electrical connectors were somewhat of a challenge to disconnect. In addition to the 6 connectors for the coil/boots on each plug, there were three additional connectors that needed to be disconnected, 1 on the passenger side, and two on the driver's side. A couple came off easily, but most required some coaxing...and patience! I had to use a long needle nose pliers on the toughest ones in order disconnect them. On others, I pressed on the release tab with a long straight slot screwdriver while pulling on the connector with my thumbnail. Two, I think came right off using my thumb and forefinger. A basic understanding of how these connectors come apart is a necessity. Every connector I removed had an obvious tab on it that needed to be depressed while separating the connector. BE CAREFUL! If you happen to break one, I would imagine that you are looking at a pretty big repair job. I put some silicone grease on the plastic portion of all connectors before reconnection to facilitate their separation next time.

-One connector near the center plug on the driver's side separated easily, but the base (blue arrow) was anchored to the engine by an upside down, 4 prong plastic pyramid that pushes into a similar sized hole in the mount. I found it necessary to remove it in order for the center plug's coil/boot assembly to come out. I squeezed the pyramid from the void underneath the mount with a pair of mini long nose pliers and gently pried the base out. The plastic pronged pyramid was mangled from the pliers a bit, but it went back into its socket and anchored just fine. I would imagine there is a better way, but I couldn't figure it out. This alone took a bunch of time for me.

-There is a tannish, spongy heat shield (far right in the picture) that needs to be either removed or pushed out of the way to access the plug closest to the firewall on the driver's side. It is held on by one 10mm bolt at the top, and I just pushed it out of the way to get to the plug. Went back into its original position with a bit of gentle coaxing. Be careful not to tear it.

-The brake line mount in the forefront of the picture behind the two hoses needs to be disconnected from that pillar (no need to remove the whole pillar) held on by a 12mm nut directly below the brake hose in the picture so that you can get an extension with socket straight into the plug well. I removed that 12mm bolt at the top too for some extra mobility, but in hindsight it may not have needed to come out.

-The largest of the three hoses (the one on the left) was removed.



-During installation, spark plug socket liked to stick on the spark plug and then separate from the extension as I tried to remove it. Found that if I jiggled the extension gently to one side, while pulling up VERY gently, the socket would come off the plug and out of the cavity. I saw somewhere on this site that there is a special extension available that locks more securely to the spark plug socket, but I don't have one, and was unable to find one. I was tempted to use a regular 5/8 deep socket but didn't want to chance breaking off a spark plug.

-A long handled magnetic retriever is very helpful after dropping tools or fasteners as would a wadded-up towel stuffed down into the voids between the engine and the frame. Anything that is dropped usually winds up landing on a frame crossmembers instead of dropping straight to the floor.

-Because of the anti-seize on the plug threads (both from the factory and from the application on the new plugs), they felt a bit "mushy" while threading them in and out with the socket, almost like the rubber insert was spinning in the socket without the flats engaging the sparkplug. It wasn't, of course, and while this felt a bit alarming on the first plug, I realized after replacing a few, it was normal. Be sure to use a torque wrench for final installation. I torqued mine to 13 FT/LBs.

-Differences? None really. Idles smoother, I think, but the 2000 RPM "buzz" is still there, the rear differential still howls, the slip yoke still needs to be greased about every 10K, and the window/door trim still whistles when it is windy. Love my truck though!