Gas cap and check engine light

Yup the easiest part to try is gas cap.

Now it needs a proper diagnoses.

 

I get that most likely a small evap leak is a poor fuel cap seal. I'm not doubting it, but an evap leak is an evap leak, and while he may have not been far off base, "close" only counts in horseshoes and throwing hand gernades.
And you were told to replace your fuel cap at an emissions testing facility, right? Not some kid at autozone who told you that replacing your fuel cap will fix your intake valve timing code and get rid of the light. Theres a difference.
I'm empathtic with the OP who doesn't have a lot of disposable income, but thats just more of a reason to have it properly diagnosed in the first place instead of taking advice from an auto store parts counter clerk.

Theres always one person who chimes in with "gas cap!!". Like someone will make a thread asking for advice on why their car pulls to the right when braking and someone will chime in and say "exact same thing happened to me and a gas cap fixed it."

 

I learned long ago, eliminate the simple stuff first. This is just me, but compared to tracking down a leak in the evap system, the price of a gas cap is well within the "easy stuff to try first" category especially since it's one of the common culprits. OP did the right thing, I prob wouldn't have bought the second cap but trying a new cap is a no brainer regardless if it ends up being the problem. I've fixed similar leaks on other vehicles and tracking them down and or replacing the line can be a pita, that wouldn't be the first place I looked.

 

this topping off thing was a problem in oregon until recently. you could not pump your own gas and the morons that service it squeeze in as much gas (and profit) by topping off unless you are standing right there and stop them.
now only new jersey has this problem.

 

A gas cap is an easy guess for a lazy technician. In my experience it very seldom corrects the problem. It is usually the gas cap was not tight or it has a leak else where. Smoke test will be the key to finding it.

 

Since the cap fixed mine, it's never had any other issues with the evap system and it's the first thing the emissions tech suggested I tend to disagree, he tests far more vehicles then you've have evap leaks.

 

The emissions technician has zero experience diagnosing an evap system fault. He just says replace the gas cap, and sometimes it works. And I'll disagree with your statement about him testing and/or diagnosing more evap leaks. He sees a code, guesses at a gas cap, plain and simple. As a technician, I actually diagnose it. Because a test inspection employee guessed right on your vehicle doesn't give you the right to make a blanket statement and say since it fixed yours it'll fix all of them.

 

So since it seems I have an evap system issue now, should I be smelling raw gas? Not something that is happening at this time.
Also, my husband is a decent mechanic, how technical is it to replace the charcoal canister and purge valve? No, have not checked on youtube about it, figured all the TW experts would be happy to chime in……
Again, not a lot of disposable income… and just made the last payment…. Figures eh?

 

Maybe or maybe not. In 36 years of the automotive repair business I have seen a lot of evap. leaks

 

agreed with post #6 and #7. mine had this code pop up for the evaporation issue partly because I was 1)using a lockable gas cap 2) not getting it tight enough. it hast to click 3-4 times

 

Why not if gas caps have been known cause of the OPs problem? You seem to think testing a $15 cap out compared to a not so cheap diagnostic or a taking the time to research it and troubleshooting is a bad idea. The advise I received was spot on and it was the cap that fixed the problem. You can dig around under your bed all you want. For me it was a simple check that cost about what a Mcdonalds meal cost, a no brainer to me. If that hadn't fixed it I would have taken the time to troubleshoot it.

 

Get a Stant (or OEM) cap, sandpaper the lip of the neck with something like 800 grit to get all the "crud' off.

Being careful not to put the crap down the neck (rag, etc.) Silicone spray on the o-ring helps it seat properly.

It takes 2 cycles for the light to go out.

 

Sure, have at it. It's not my time or money. Guess all you want.

 

I used to hate going to NJ for that reason. The pump jockeys are not always too bright either. went I had that Diesel Jeep they argued with me a time or two when a asked for diesel saying all those cars used gas... no sorry most did not mine. Id have to go back in to philly or go to a truck stop. I learned them to not trust full service.

 

Why does testing out the condition with a new gas cap bother you so much? The Techs advise was spot on and in the end I would have ended up buying a cap since that was causing the problem. I spent allot less time and the same amount of $ which makes your comment pretty ridiculous.

 

Let’s just call this for what it is; you trying to justify shitty advice to the OP because you got lucky on a guess with your check engine light. Its that simple.

 

I round to the next 10 cent after click...guess I better stop that! lol

Definitely don't need to pay an unneccesary bill to replace the Vapor Canister/Vent system.

 

No lets call it what it is, a simple test that costs $15 that may fix the issue quickly, it may not which is why it's an easy first check. One just has to look at the number of evap CELs caused by locking gas caps to know the cap is a distinct possibility. Worked perfectly for me based on the "shitty" advise you refer to. Everyone knows a cap may not fix it and it didn't with the OP which doesn't change anything. If spending $15 to quickly eliminate one of the known causes is unreasonable for you then that's an entirely different issue. Many mechanics keep a known good cap around to quickly perform the very same test, guess they all got the same shitty advise.

 

You think many mechanics keep a known good cap around to quickly perform the same test? Thats interesting, since evap codes have a 2 trip detection logic, meaning there is nothing “quick” about it. It would be “quicker” to diagnose it correctly via smoking the evap system as I originally stated.

 

Yeah, took some getting used to when I first started doing this. Not topping off was weird. Now I don't think twice about it. Thanks to others on this site having EVAP issues I was educated with the first few months of ownership.