Fuse Tap (15 amp) for Air Lift Load Controller compressor?

Hi All,

I'm having a hard time locating the proper spot to tap into my fuse panel. Air Lift recommends a 15 amp circuit, only powered when the ignition is on. Here's what I'm working with:

2012 TX Pro, all stock.
Air Lift RideControl w/ Load Controller II

Installing the mounting brackets was consistent with feedback, difficult, but still a "no-drill" operation. The compressor and low pressure switch fits neatly in the left side bed compartment, the air lines pass cleanly through existing drain holes. I'm looking for a good spot in the cab to mount the gauge/switch assembly. The auxiliary fill adapter fits cleanly on the rear bumper next to the license plate.

Thanks in advance,
Brett

 

I'm not sure what wiring setup your kit came with, but how about stuffing a relay in the bed compartment, wired back to just about any ignition-on fuse, for the control side of the relay. Then run 8AWG back to the power side (hot) and ground to the frame (or run the ground back to the battery, which is my preference)?

 

I used this fuse location in the cab to the left of the steering wheel to activate a relay mounted in the bed storage area, see the open slot in the second pic. Used 10 gauge tinned copper wire.
The relay power to the pump comes directly from the battery with a water proof fuse holder in between.
I have since moved the controller to the cab but left the relay in the storage space.

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obscurotron, thanks for the reply. I was looking for a simpler solution but that would be a good setup.

fla_sun, thanks for the pictures. Your setup is a little different. On the right side of my bed, I have an AC outlet. I did monkey around with the interior panel before seeing your post, and I had success with the ignition fuse in the upper left. Do you have any recommendations for mounting the interior gauge, or did you get the wireless setup? Where did you pass the wire through into the cab?

 

I just mounted via Velcro in the cubby hole below the center of the dash.
I bought DB15 male and female quick connectors and some 10 conductor 22 gauge stranded and shielded cable on Ebay. Ran the wire into the cab via the floor access grommet under the driver's seat. Used cable splicer's rubber tape to water proof the entry.
Since the unit only takes 9 conductors I doubled up on the power conductor.

 

Velcro was a clutch move, mounted the gauge and compressor with it. Got everything tucked neatly into the console.

 

Use a relay that turns on with the ignition instead. Feed the compressor with it's own power from the battery, using the relay to turn it in and off.

 

Yes, it's in the console. Console removal was really easy and made routing the wires and hose easier too. I don't have dual control, just single. I have Super Springs, which I removed to do this upgrade. After all the time spent I wonder if Sumo Springs wouldn't have been a better alternative. I was going to place everything in the bed originally, but after seeing how much air bled out overnight I knew it would be better to have ready access. There weren't a lot of options to put that console in the cab, kind of wish I had gone with the wireless controller. But, I'm happy with the outcome. It's clean and out of the way while being accessible.