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Fuel Pump Wire

Discussion in '1st Gen. Tacomas (1995-2004)' started by TheCreekRat, Sep 15, 2017.

  1. Sep 15, 2017 at 7:22 AM
    #1
    TheCreekRat

    TheCreekRat [OP] Well-Known Member

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    Looking for advice on where I can find the fuel pump wire in the cab of my 1999 tacoma. Looking to go all James Bond and throw a switch on it. I have heard it runs under the driver seat? Would like to avoid having to take a bunch of crap apart and drill through the firewall, etc.

    Also if anyone has advice on any good alarms (my truck currently does not have one) as I will be going down to central america it would be apprecaited
     
  2. Sep 15, 2017 at 8:13 AM
    #2
    Dirty Pool

    Dirty Pool FLIES ON THE FRIES, KETCHUPS WATERED DOWN

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    59.4 Miles, 56.67° NE Of Moab
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    On a 99 you are looking for a blue wire. It runs from the "circuit opening relay" to a bundle under the driver side door sill/scuff plate. Midway under the plate it branches off toward a hole/grommet under the seat.
    To disable the pump several wires on the COR could be interrupted. I like the blue pump power wire because a switch can be placed after the relay but before the sill plate. This way a simple jumper wire can not be used to "hot wire" the COR or the pump. That is assuming the switch and exactly where it is cut in (behind driver side kick panel;)) is hidden.
    A fuel pump switch is also a handy item for fuel system diagnostics.
    Can't help you with alarms.

    COR location on a 99
    COR1_zpsmkvbnfmv_6c4410462f98484f95ee22532ee7c560f533d0be.jpg
    COR2_zpsmt2q0afb_ab4b2b1c4d96484b5810ecd3421678ee4a7b235a.jpg
     
    Last edited: Sep 15, 2017
    VBdiver58, Tuluk, cruiserguy and 2 others like this.
  3. Sep 15, 2017 at 8:44 AM
    #3
    TheCreekRat

    TheCreekRat [OP] Well-Known Member

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    Really appreciate the detailed response. This is what I was looking for. May hit you up with a message here later as I start to get my hands dirty later if you don't mind.
     
  4. Sep 17, 2017 at 11:50 AM
    #4
    TheCreekRat

    TheCreekRat [OP] Well-Known Member

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    Has anyone located where the wire runs near/under the drivers seat and want to share. Trying to do this with ripping up the least amount of stuff as possible.
     
  5. Sep 17, 2017 at 1:04 PM
    #5
    Dirty Pool

    Dirty Pool FLIES ON THE FRIES, KETCHUPS WATERED DOWN

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    Pull the door sill, can't miss it. Goes right behind the left front seat leg. Door sill has 4 screws, wiggle side to side while pulling up, start an one end.
    With the sill off the vertical kick panel can be popped off. The same wire bundle from under the sill can be followed here, depending on where you want to cut in the switch.
     
  6. Sep 17, 2017 at 10:23 PM
    #6
    Dalandser

    Dalandser ¡Me Gustan Las Tacos-mas!

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    Subbed - some guys stole my neighbor's car (2013 Scion xD) right out of her driveway the other night. Once my truck is back together I want to make sure I've got a good anti-theft system since I've put so much work into it.
     
    1997tacomav6 likes this.
  7. Sep 17, 2017 at 10:49 PM
    #7
    DJB1

    DJB1 Well-Known Member

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  8. Sep 17, 2017 at 11:00 PM
    #8
    Dalandser

    Dalandser ¡Me Gustan Las Tacos-mas!

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  9. Sep 17, 2017 at 11:10 PM
    #9
    DJB1

    DJB1 Well-Known Member

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    Thank you for fixing that link, @Dalandser, you're a gentleman and a scholar. When I was typing that sentence, my iPhone suggested "you're a gentleman and a homophobic" and "you're a gentleman and a donkey."
     
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  10. Sep 18, 2017 at 12:05 AM
    #10
    Dalandser

    Dalandser ¡Me Gustan Las Tacos-mas!

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    Hey I'll take what I can get, thanks apple o_O

    It might be a good idea to make two switches - one where it's easy to get to in the cab. The other could be a more random spot. That way any would be thieves may be thrown off if they're messing with the first switch and not getting anywhere.
     
    G59 and TheCreekRat[OP] like this.
  11. Sep 18, 2017 at 1:40 PM
    #11
    TheCreekRat

    TheCreekRat [OP] Well-Known Member

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    Well I am an idiot and read door panel instead of sill. Hopefully going to pop in something this weekend. Will update
     
  12. Sep 18, 2017 at 1:41 PM
    #12
    TheCreekRat

    TheCreekRat [OP] Well-Known Member

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    I was thinking about going the two switch route! My friends think I am paranoid, but this truck will be traveling through Central America where it is about impossible to get theft insurance so I am trying to have all my bases covered
     
    Dalandser[QUOTED] likes this.
  13. Sep 18, 2017 at 4:47 PM
    #13
    tcBob

    tcBob Gringo Bandito Moderator

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    @Dalandser I copied over their post, with the photobucket pics fixed:

    Simple Fuel Pump Kill Switch I installed on my 2003 2RZ. I'm pretty sure this procedure will work on all 2001-2004 models, and it may also be applicable for 1996-2000 model Tacomas, but cannot say with 100% certainty.

    I put a simple 35 Amp ON/OFF Toggle Switch (NAPA PN TG6057) on the Blue Fuel Pump Power Wire at the Circuit Opening Relay (C6). It's the wire that is labeled "L" at terminal 3. The minimum Amperage rating of the Toggle Switch should be 20 Amps, but it doesn't hurt to go with one that has a higher rating.

    As you can see, the Circuit Opening Relay supplies power to the Fuel Pump via the Blue wire when its Normally Open (N/O) contact is closed. The Toggle Switck "opens" the Blue wire when it is switched to the OFF position. This, of course, prevents the engine from running by killing power to the Fuel Pump.
    WiringDiagram_ed598c2c4eec5637f60cc30615eb64434423e976.jpg

    Fuel Pump Control Circuit.
    FuelPumpControlCircuit_cc28aac0501a0d2b76da9e4d6bf7cce8b91c32c6.jpg

    The Lower Finish Panel needs to be removed in order to access the Circuit Opening Relay.
    scan0003-1_96748dfbf8eff1928627db5350e87fe2c138382f.jpg

    "Tinned" Toggle Switch terminals. The ends on the wires were also tinned. This preps the terminals and wires for soldering.
    100_1571Medium_e41846e433be381b0fbba7135a3868b76e7d2259.jpg

    Wires after being soldered onto the Toggle Switch. Heat shrink was used to insulate and protect the terminals. The Blue Fuel Pump power wire is 14 gauge, so it's necessary to make sure the Toggle Switch wires are the same (14 AWG). I used the Red wire for the switched ON position and the Black wire for the switched OFF position.
    100_1577Medium_ec207c523051e4173b2c2796e97eb9081da306ff.jpg

    Red and Black Toggle Switch wires connected at the cut Blue Fuel Pump Power wire. I used insulated quick-disconnect connectors. A female was used on the Red wire and male on the Black wire. Of course the opposite connector was used on their associated Blue wires. This was done so that I could bypass the Toggle Switch in case it fails and connect the Blue wires back together without much fuss.
    100_1583Medium_3a8156058148edc74d193f52d1da86efc3e87254.jpg

    Lastly I located a suitable location, drilled a 15/32" hole and mounted the Toggle Switch. All done!
     
  14. Sep 19, 2017 at 6:49 AM
    #14
    RysiuM

    RysiuM Well-Known Member

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    This is quite clever but what you can do is use toggle switch and connect the common to the relay side, one of the other contacts to the fuel pump side and the other to some kind of loud horn - 120db more. Maybe even have it inside the cab (http://www.ebay.com/itm/New-Wired-M...837385&hash=item56841f1da1:g:AqkAAOSwI3RW9NuN). That would be nasty surprise for thief-wanna-be (or yourself if you forgot to flip the switch).
     
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  15. Nov 12, 2017 at 10:01 AM
    #15
    TheCreekRat

    TheCreekRat [OP] Well-Known Member

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    14awg? I am doing mine today and into looks smaller than 14awg that I bought to wire the switch. Maybe 16awg? Is the insulation just smaller? Sorry I am just new to this stuff.
     
  16. Nov 12, 2017 at 10:51 AM
    #16
    TheCreekRat

    TheCreekRat [OP] Well-Known Member

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    So I went ahead and used 14awg on the switch. The fuel pump wire is def 16awg. Doing some research I don’t see any issue with this but I can always switch as I used quick connects any advice?
     
  17. Sep 6, 2020 at 6:33 PM
    #17
    1stGenDR

    1stGenDR New Member

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    I have a 1995 Tacoma V6 and just wanted to say I took the leap of faith and cut into the blue wire behind the kick panel and wired a switch in. Worked perfectly. I used 14 gauge wire and connectors, and a 35 amp/12v switch. When it's off it comes pretty close to starting, but doesn't.

    Thank you very much for the write up, Dirty Pool!
     
  18. Apr 14, 2022 at 7:27 AM
    #18
    Chaospdx85

    Chaospdx85 Active Member

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    Hello all! I know this is an older post, but curious if anyone is willing to follow up on it for me… I saw the mention of the Napa TG6057 toggle switch. I am curious if it’s still working for any of yours’ switch still? I bought the same switch, but it just looks deceivingly small for a “35 amp” switch. I have some “bigger” 20 amp switches but I wanted to follow your lead and go bigger amperage rating if possible. Just curious how it’s working for any of you!! Thanks in advance!

    (photo below: on the left, my cheap Amazon 20 amp switch. Right: Napa TG6057, supposedly 35 amp)

    64EB77EB-24AA-45E2-B5DD-E77B8EC7D5CD.jpg
     
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  19. Apr 14, 2022 at 9:25 AM
    #19
    warmingupmymind

    warmingupmymind Well-Known Member

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    I've been using a 20 amp spst switch from Amazon for the last few months and it's been working great. Considering its 16awg wire, it shouldn't ever draw much more than ~13 amps.
     
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  20. Apr 14, 2022 at 11:20 AM
    #20
    Chaospdx85

    Chaospdx85 Active Member

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    Thank you for the response, @warmingupmymind ! Good to know. So it is in deed 16awg? I saw some mixed posts on which it was. I only saw it when I disconnected the harness to test the wire but it sorta looked like 14? But If your using 16 with no issues then that must be it !! Thanks again.
     

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