Fuel pump and retainer ring installation...

I am in the process of replacing my fuel sending unit. I already have the tank out and was able to use the fuel pump to pump about 4 gallons out of it to make life a bit easier during reinstallation. Removal was a breeze aside from breaking one of the tank strap bolts and spending several hours to remove the tank breather hose from the top of the tank.

I was putting the fuel pump back in and broke the retainer ring during installation. I was reusing the retainer ring and gasket. I just noticed that the SM calls for replacement of both. I was able to get the retainer ring into the 3 o'clock position after 2 rotations but was unable to get it into the 4-5 o'clock position before the ring split.

I ordered a new ring and gasket and should have it by tomorrow. The SM states that you are supposed to use their SST tool for installation but I have read that others have used a flat blade screwdriver. I used a flat blade screwdriver to remove the ring originally.

Any tips or suggestion during installation tomorrow? I would hate to break another one.

Thanks!

 

Mallet and a 2x4

 

Haven't done this one personally, but I've done fuel pump swaps on plenty of other vehicles. If it's like most others, I'd use a brass punch with more impact surface area and not a screwdriver, along with a good linear impact device.

 

Thanks, but I don't believe a punch will work. The retainer ring has thin tabs on it that are only a few millimeters tall. I received a suggestion from another member to lubricate the gasket prior to installing the ring. I plan to give that a try. I will use a wide flat edge screwdriver or a pry bar and a rubber mallet to move it along. I am guessing that should do the trick.

 

Been several years since I’ve messed with the fuel system. Forgot with the LRA tank you don’t reuse the stock ring. I believe I used a mallet and/wood block to knock loose.

 

Once it starts to feel snug, just go until the next locking tab.
Sure, ideally you’d want it to be between the marks.
But there’s been guys a whole half turn “loose” and they were fine.
See link below. If it feels snugs, I wouldn’t try to force it anymore than necessary and risk breaking it again.

This guy didn’t go to the marks, he says all was good.
https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads/diagnosing-a-fuel-leak.155730/#post-3402110

 

Thanks guys, I appreciate the feedback. I think I have a solid plan for installing the retainer ring.

Now I need bolt to decide if I am going to cut out the partially loose spinning bolt that holds one of the straps. The perfectionist in me says to go ahead and cut the bolt, extract it, and fish a new bolt in place. Or I could take the easy / lazy route and leave the bolt loose as it is. It's not like it is going to loosen up and the weight of the gas will keep the tank firm against the straps anyway.

 

If you're like me that bolts always gonna be on your mind if you leave it...

 

that’s probably the worse one to break loose. If it was me I’d cut that section out and weld a new piece of metal with a nut welded on the inside, but that’s the OCD for me haha

 

I ended up cutting it off. I fished a 40mm M10x1.25 bolt with a washer through the frame. It's a little long but I don't really care. After I install the strap and put a nut and a washer on it, I will cut a slit in the end of the bolt with a grinder. This will allow me to hold the bolt with a screwdriver so I can tighten the nut. I guess I could always cut the bolt down with a grinder later but I don't think it really matters. I would never be putting a jack or anything under the fuel tank strap anyway.

 

This happened to me, too. It probably spins because the weld nut broke free from the frame rail, but is still fused to the bolt threads. With the tank out the way, I welded a new nut in place. Top down bolt won’t work because once the tank is back in, you’ll have no way to hold it to tighten a nut onto it.

 

Yes, true. The way I solved that issue was to grind a slot in the end of the bolt. You can hold the bolt with a screwdriver and use a wrench to tighten it.

Also, I don't have the skills to weld a nut in place. I assume you need to cut the frame open to do this.

 

That might work if you don’t have a welder. If you can get enough torque on it that way…

 

I am hopeful that it will. I used the same approach when I installed an aftermarket hitch with larger M12 bolts. In that case, once the bolt was tight enough I was able to switch directly to a torque wrench without the bolt turning. Will see if that works here too.

 

For those who had their tanks out, how did you deal with any loose rubber tanks pads that sit on the top of the tank? Crazy glue, double sided tape, other adhesive???

 

I was able to finish this job up tonight. I used a 30mm M10x1.25 to replace the broken bolt. I am glad I didn't use the 40mm as I would have had to cut it down as it would have hit the gas tank proctector.