Fuel filler neck replacement

Hey guys,
I have a obvious fuel leak where the filler neck meets the gas tank. I've got a new neck and seal. So what is the easiest way to replace it . Is it easier if the bed comes off? Maybe drop the gas tank? I've never done this repair so I'd like to hear your ideas. Thanks in advance!

-Carver

 

I've done it both ways. If the bed bolts don't twist off (live in the rustbelt?), I like removing the bed. There is always more to inspect, replace, fluid film, etc with the bed off. Maybe you might decide to replace fuel pump, depending on it's age/mileage.

If you live in a rust prone area, it is a pain if the bed bolts start twisting off, or weld nuts break loose. If you do live with excessive rust, get your fuel level as low as possible, get a floor jack and a wooden pallet, and drop the tank.

 

You will have to remove the bed to get access to it.

I don't know if it's that common but I've seen this issue on many 1st gen. It's either on the base plate of the filler neck, right at the base of the neck, or it is on the gas tank itself just below the raised edge onto which the filler neck's plate bolts on. If you're lucky, could just be a bad gasket. Only way to know for sure is to go look!

It's not that hard to repair with a drop of welding if the rest of the neck/tank is in good condition but the hardest part is to remove the bed

 

While I doubt it applies to a 95, check your VIN against toyota's recall list. I remember there was a fuel filler neck recall, just don't remember specifically what it was for. They took care of it on my 02.

EDIT: Disregard. Wasn't specifically for the neck but a hose.
https://auto-recalls.justia.com/toyota/tacoma/2002/03v189000/index.html

 

UPDATE!!

I have replaced the filler neck and wanted to share my discoveries and a little insight to anyone else who may have a similar fix on their plate.
First and foremost if you plan on doing anything to the tank that requires you to gain access via dropping the tank or removing the bed. Just go ahead and buy OEM replacement parts for your models gas tank. It may suck initially to spend the dough but trust me you'll thank yourself afterwards. Also get your tank as empty as possible as well.
I ordered the filler neck from rockauto it was the spectra premium one and had a quality seal with it.
Start by removing your skid plate and nozzle surround(4 Philips). On my 95 reg cab 4x4 auto it was two 12mm short bolts towards the back and two 12mm longer ones on the front. On everything 1999 and earlier the tank are being suspended by two metal straps front and back. But, trucks 2000 and up the front is being held in with three 12mm bolts than go through the skid plate, tank , and into a crossmember bracket. A block of wood and a jack or jack stands will catch the tank. On my 95 the tank straps are suspended by rods with pins. I removed them completely breaking the rear strap cause of corrosion. There is also a bolt holding the filler neck to the frame I had to cut mine cause of corrosion but as long as you don't damage the bracket to the frame. A new filler neck will have a threaded tab that can mate to a new #8 bolt. I then lowered the tank a little to give access to the fuel pump on the top of the tank to disconnect the three fuel lines two were squeeze connects and one was a threaded 14mm fitting. Use a wrench on the nut tank-side as to not twist the line and damage it. Fuel is going to probably come out so be prepared. Then electrical connection was a push a tab and lift off type but due to the age of the plastic I broke the tab. I left it as is in the end since it was a snug fit.
Once all the connection are loose the tank can come out. Lots of wiggling, lowering, wiggling, lowering diagonally cause of the fuel neck. Congratulations, your tank is out of your truck!

With the tank out I cleaned up around the filler neck with some acetone, shop rags and compressed air. The bolts holding the filler neck to the tank were I believe 8mm sockets? Just don't use a Philips and if worse comes to worse you can use vice grips and order new fasteners. The way the plate is mounted to the tank seems to be a pressed metal flange between the tank wall and has indentions all around. Naturally moisture got to the top couple and corroded the metal. This is why I had a leak. Not because of the seal but the metal indentions from the manufacture process. I used some fuel resistant sealant by Permatex. Bolted my new fuel neck to the tank and let it sit overnight to cure.


With the tank sorted I had to fix my rear strap and the front-left strap mounting point. The rear I welded a piece of sister plate to the underside. Then primed and painted. For the front I welded the mounting bracket to the frames since the bolt had broken and wasn't coming out with a extractor then primed and painted the area.
With that I was ready to put the tank back in. Getting the tank in position with a jack and piece of wood proved useful. Having a second set of hands will help a lot with lining up the filler neck to the fuel fill hole. With the tank lined up just right I attached my straps one at a time. Both seemed like they had shrunk. I ended up using a pair of needle nose pliers to pry the holes to line up much like you do with springs and then hammering the rod through. The rear strap was easier for me. The front I had to bevel the rod to get it to go through the holes. And don't forget your pins. From there tank itself was back on the truck. I re-attached the fuel lines and electrical connection and bolted the skid plate back on.

I hope this walk-through may help someone in the future with similar problems. I tried to go into enough detail as if I were someone else doing this repair. And was looking for a resource to guide me.
-Carver

 

Nice writeup, I can't get help from anyone these days so removing the bed is a no go for me. Nice to know its possible to drop the tank. I have broken a couple of connector tabs, I use a dab of RTV to hold it on for the ones that one stay on.

 

Is it possible to do the filler neck without dropping the tank? I took the wheel well off and it looks like I can access all of the screws to remove the old one. Has anyone been able to do it this way? Thanks.

 

The filler neck makes a few bends and turns. Because of the tab that connects it to the frame I think it's the tank comes down or the bed goes up.

 

I was able to do it without dropping the fuel tank or taking the bed off. I have 33” tires that made it a lot easier. I took the dust shield off a few months ago but just started yesterday. Took a lot of PB Blaster. All and all, beats having to mess with fuel tank and bed. First time getting gas and not wasting in years. Had to connect the bottom to the fuel tank first then tighten the connection to the frame then retighten connection to fuel tank then last did the part where the fuel goes.