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Front Wheel Bearings, Which is Best and Where to Buy

Discussion in '2nd Gen. Tacomas (2005-2015)' started by PMK, Jun 15, 2020.

  1. Jun 15, 2020 at 4:58 AM
    #1
    PMK

    PMK [OP] Well-Known Member

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    I have been searching and reading topics and posts here about front wheel bearings.

    My truck is a 2010 Prerunner, so 2wd, 6 lug setup.

    I have the special socket, a press, and the torque wrench, so current plan is to buy bearings and reuse my oem hubs.

    So what is the current best bearing available? Where is the best place to purchase the bearings from?

    Need seals and O rings, also, any info on where is best to get those?

    Thanks
     
  2. Jun 15, 2020 at 5:10 AM
    #2
    3JOH22A

    3JOH22A トヨタ純正男娼

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    Kolter45 likes this.
  3. Jun 15, 2020 at 5:13 AM
    #3
    Mongoose

    Mongoose Well-Known Member

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    NSK or Koyo bearings are OEM, seals are available aftermarket, but the hub o-ring is only availabe from dealer.
     
    Kolter45 likes this.
  4. Jun 15, 2020 at 7:31 AM
    #4
    PMK

    PMK [OP] Well-Known Member

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    White, debadged, Mudflaps removed, ICON 2.5 in front, 2.0 in rear, all 4 corners have reservoirs, Spidertrax wheel spacers all around, BAMF bolt on sliders, Avid lightbar, oem transmission cooler converted to power steering cooler, aftermarket transmission cooler eliminating all oem transmission cooler stuff, remote mounted spin on transmission fluid filter TrueTrac rear differential, rear diff housing vented and filtered into left side bed box, URD MAF calibrator, Volant intake scoop into oem airbox, second filter removed, airbox internals smoothed, blended and polished throttle body, NST intake manifold spacer, Wet Okolee set covers, WeatherTech Digital Fit mats, inexpensive JVC single DIN, Scangage, AVS Stepshield door sill protectors, Doug Thorley Long Tube Headers, URD Y pipe with O2 sims.
    Supposedly, Timken and Koyo are the same company now. Any comments regarding Timken brand bearings and seals?
     
  5. Jun 15, 2020 at 7:36 AM
    #5
    Unchained 5150

    Unchained 5150 Rick

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  6. Jun 16, 2020 at 3:24 AM
    #6
    PMK

    PMK [OP] Well-Known Member

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    White, debadged, Mudflaps removed, ICON 2.5 in front, 2.0 in rear, all 4 corners have reservoirs, Spidertrax wheel spacers all around, BAMF bolt on sliders, Avid lightbar, oem transmission cooler converted to power steering cooler, aftermarket transmission cooler eliminating all oem transmission cooler stuff, remote mounted spin on transmission fluid filter TrueTrac rear differential, rear diff housing vented and filtered into left side bed box, URD MAF calibrator, Volant intake scoop into oem airbox, second filter removed, airbox internals smoothed, blended and polished throttle body, NST intake manifold spacer, Wet Okolee set covers, WeatherTech Digital Fit mats, inexpensive JVC single DIN, Scangage, AVS Stepshield door sill protectors, Doug Thorley Long Tube Headers, URD Y pipe with O2 sims.
    Not exactly what I was asking about, yes, he does sell complete assemblies. Fine for those unable to accomplish rebuilding the hubs themselves.

    So I ask, what is the better bearings to buy and where is a good source for them that is reasonably priced.

    Currently leaning towards Rock Auto and Timken bearings. Saves about $200 doing the task myself.
     
  7. Jun 16, 2020 at 3:30 AM
    #7
    Sep1911

    Sep1911 Well-Known Member

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    Timken or nsk off rocksuto. I’m in the same boat as you.
     
  8. Jun 17, 2020 at 6:21 AM
    #8
    PMK

    PMK [OP] Well-Known Member

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    White, debadged, Mudflaps removed, ICON 2.5 in front, 2.0 in rear, all 4 corners have reservoirs, Spidertrax wheel spacers all around, BAMF bolt on sliders, Avid lightbar, oem transmission cooler converted to power steering cooler, aftermarket transmission cooler eliminating all oem transmission cooler stuff, remote mounted spin on transmission fluid filter TrueTrac rear differential, rear diff housing vented and filtered into left side bed box, URD MAF calibrator, Volant intake scoop into oem airbox, second filter removed, airbox internals smoothed, blended and polished throttle body, NST intake manifold spacer, Wet Okolee set covers, WeatherTech Digital Fit mats, inexpensive JVC single DIN, Scangage, AVS Stepshield door sill protectors, Doug Thorley Long Tube Headers, URD Y pipe with O2 sims.
    Thanks for the reply. Kind of surprised so few replies. Guessing many owners here now are merely parts changers and do not really work on their vehicles themselves. Oh well, Timken it will be.
     
  9. Jun 17, 2020 at 7:41 AM
    #9
    TheDevilYouLove

    TheDevilYouLove You can’t polish a turd, but you can polish a TRD

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    lol
     
  10. Jun 17, 2020 at 7:48 AM
    #10
    Taco Wake

    Taco Wake Well-Known Member

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    On 4x4's the savings isn't as big compared to prerunners, especially if you don't already own a press. And there is the risk that the housing is scored/damaged.
     
  11. Jun 17, 2020 at 8:31 AM
    #11
    Steve_P

    Steve_P Well-Known Member

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    I pressed mine myself and bought OE bearings online from a dealer. I did this because I wanted to guarantee I wouldn't get counterfeits. OE is the best bet IMO.
     
  12. Jun 18, 2020 at 4:04 AM
    #12
    Wattapunk

    Wattapunk Stay lifted my friends !

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    So you don't consider doing our own repairs,maintenance or installs working on our own vehicles? You are basically "part changers" when you do your own repairs. For the convenience and lack of access to required tools, I prefer swapping whole assembles. Nothing wrong with either route for the same end result except that warranty likely better with a whole assembly bought from one vendor.
     
  13. Jun 18, 2020 at 8:35 AM
    #13
    PMK

    PMK [OP] Well-Known Member

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    White, debadged, Mudflaps removed, ICON 2.5 in front, 2.0 in rear, all 4 corners have reservoirs, Spidertrax wheel spacers all around, BAMF bolt on sliders, Avid lightbar, oem transmission cooler converted to power steering cooler, aftermarket transmission cooler eliminating all oem transmission cooler stuff, remote mounted spin on transmission fluid filter TrueTrac rear differential, rear diff housing vented and filtered into left side bed box, URD MAF calibrator, Volant intake scoop into oem airbox, second filter removed, airbox internals smoothed, blended and polished throttle body, NST intake manifold spacer, Wet Okolee set covers, WeatherTech Digital Fit mats, inexpensive JVC single DIN, Scangage, AVS Stepshield door sill protectors, Doug Thorley Long Tube Headers, URD Y pipe with O2 sims.
    When I asked specifically about which bearings and a guy replies to buy complete assemblies, that to me indicates a person that merely changes parts. As I searched before starting this topic, quite often, that was the direction people took. Someone asks and they get the answer to buy assemblies. Add to this, there was one guy who ripped off a bunch of people after being highly recommended here.

    There is a difference between doing repairs, maintenance and modifications. I hold no grudge that you bought and installed assemblies based on the reasons you mentioned. Sometimes that is just how it is. If a person has the tools needed, and the ability to replace the bearings themselves, there is no shame in that either.

    Honestly, adding to replacing the bearings, I plan to repack them with Mobil 1 grease and believe they will go for ten years. I would like to install grease ports, but fear the grease may weep onto the discs and cause other issues.

    As for warranty, pretty certain, but would need to double check but seem to recall it was one year for the bearings.

    Yes, there are some here that are merely parts changers. Part A fits Part B and they tighten it up. No troubleshooting, no real technical merit, that is fine too. Downside is they try and offer up technical advice.
     
  14. Jun 18, 2020 at 10:48 AM
    #14
    Asianguywithatruk

    Asianguywithatruk Well-Known Member

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    If you really did do the research like you say you did then all your question have been asked before and answered. Even in that link above for the complete assembly, the guy use OE bearings and his reasons. Use the same bearings and seals that he use.

    *im a parts changer and proud of it*
     
  15. Jun 18, 2020 at 11:01 AM
    #15
    TexasWhiteIce

    TexasWhiteIce Well-Known Member

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    On a prerunner, what is this special socket that you mention?

    I did my front wheel bearings and didn’t need a special socket.
     
  16. Jun 18, 2020 at 11:43 AM
    #16
    SUMOTNK

    SUMOTNK Pavement Pounder / Mall Crawler

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    I *think* the special socket is for the 4x4. The 35mm socket.

    I believe PreRunners dont have that 35mm nut. Only the 4 bolts that hold hub assembly to spindle.
     
  17. Jun 18, 2020 at 12:32 PM
    #17
    TexasWhiteIce

    TexasWhiteIce Well-Known Member

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    Yeah that’s what I thought but OP has a prerunner and seeing as OP seems to be bashing people on this thread that he knows more about repairs with his passive-aggressive responses, I figured he’d enlighten us
     
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  18. Jun 18, 2020 at 12:54 PM
    #18
    Muddinfun

    Muddinfun Well-Known Member

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    On a prerunner, there's a giant nut that holds the bearing and hub together, since there's no CV stub shaft to hold it together. The special socket has 4 pegs that go in these 4 holes. You only need it if you are going to reuse your old hub. Since the OP lives in Florida, there shouldn't be an issue with rust and there's nothing wrong with pressing things apart and reusing his old hubs. For the average Joe that doesn't own a press or the special socket, it's more practical to buy complete assemblies. I own a 4WD and have a press. My truck came from Canada where they salt the roads. I bought complete assemblies because I knew my hubs would be rusty from the salt and it would be better to just put in everything new.

    [​IMG]


    Here is the hub from my failed bearing. After I swapped assemblies, I pressed apart the bad one. The seal surface was rusty. I polished it up, but you can see it’s still not great. Installing complete assemblies was a wise choice for me.

    8838C6C1-B1E5-4BE3-90A9-FD0B486A69F9.jpg
     
    Last edited: Jun 18, 2020
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  19. Jun 18, 2020 at 1:48 PM
    #19
    Crosis

    Crosis Tertiary adjunct to unimatrix 01

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    Just keep in mind, unless you are fabricating new items every repair on a car is a part replacement. Every single one. So press a new bearing is the same parts changer as hub replacement. Jump down from the pedestal, you are a parts changer.
     
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  20. Jun 18, 2020 at 4:22 PM
    #20
    winkel

    winkel Well-Known Member

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    Yeah, I guess I'm a parts changer too. BUT I charge myself a lot less to do it than a professional mechanic would. With the money I save, I buy alcohol, tobacco and ammo.
     
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