Front end bushings? Wrapped it up yesterday.

I recently purchased a 2003 extended cab TRD PreRunner with 150k miles on the odo. It's in relatively good condition, runs great, and all I've done so far is add Bilstein 4600 shocks, as it appeared to have the original shocks still.

One question I wanted to run by those who would know - when it's colder out, there are quite a few suspension type squeaks when going over uneven sections of the road. Sounds all the world like bushings making noises. Once the vehicle or the day warms up, the noises go away. Are there particular bushings I should be looking at, and if I can pin them down as the noise makers somehow, do they need replacing, or can they be lubricated somehow?

Other than that issue, the truck is great.

 

1. Those shocks are long overdo for replacement. Disposable shocks should be replaced roughly at 50-60k intervals if driven on road, and sooner if driven off road.

2. As for front end parts, same as your other Tacoma; sway bar end links, upper and lower control arm bushings, steering rack bushings, and so forth.

3. Lower ball joints, if you are unsure of their history. Always use OEM. Safe to do upper ball joints at the same time you do your upper control arm bushings.

4. Several zerk fittings that require lubing, and more. Utilize the forums tools as there is a sticky in each section for such questions - 1st Gen. "DIY" and "How To" Thread: Compiled list of helpful links | Tacoma World

 

I figure I should start with the least complicated as far as bushing replacement - anti-swaybar bushings. So what is the consensus - oem (or aftermarket if available) rubber or poly bushings? Anyone have a good source link?

 

Depends on what you want, what you like. I tried the Energy Suspension bushings in my truck. Wound up leaving the sway bar bushings installed but reverted to stock rubber bushings at the sway bar links.

I've also broken my sway bar links a few times, twice with the Energy Suspension bushings at the links and once with the original rubber bushings. I've resolved myself to replacing the link bushings whenever they become crushed (I like the somewhat softer ride, and my 4WD days are becoming numbered...)

 

I've discovered that the sway bar end links on 2003 models


are not the same as earlier models


I ordered some sway bar mount bushings and will go from there.

 

Mine are the lower kind. When they break, they break below the welded-on nut. I've broken Genuine Toyota Parts links and the ones I get from Rock Auto. Usually they're bent a bit before they bite the dust.

IMO it's a very poor design.

 

Sway bar bushings replaced, no change. I think I've narrowed it down to the lower control arm bushings. Is it an option to apply a product, i.e. Deep Creep, to eliminate the squawking bushing sound, or is bushing replacement the only solution?

 

Do it right, replace the bushings.

 

Spraying the bushings and cams with whatever you want isn't a bad option to determine if the bushings are causing the problem, but it's not a long term solution. In addition, if the squeak is from the bushings, you've got a head start in spraying something in there which will help you free the cams (if they aren't completely seized already).

 

I appreciate the feedback, thanks. I did have the same thought, that if spraying something in there would, at the least, help pin down the location of the squeak, I'd be that far ahead. I'm weighing these options:

1. Remove and replace the LCA bushings. I don't think I have the tools to do this myself. R&R of LCA, yes; removal of bushings, not so much
2. Replace the LCA & lower ball joint, if they can be ordered together, with the bj & bushings already installed (see note above about lack of tools)
3. Take it to my mechanic for diagnosis & fix. I asked them yesterday - the soonest they can get to it is Nov. 1st

 

There are a few methods to remove the bushings. If you're lacking on the tools side, but you're mechanically inclined, there is a bottle jack technique. There is also the option of getting the Energy Suspension poly bushings- which you burn out (heat to ~350-400 degrees and then they pop out with ease) the existing rubber bushing and insert the new poly bushing into the OEM sleeve.

If you have the tools to get the LCA off, adding a bottle jack to your arsenal wouldn't be a bank buster. Keep in mind that getting the LCAs off also means partial removal of the steering rack so that you can access the rear cam bolts, some larger wrenches (in the 22-24mm range), and that replacing the lower ball joint requires some pullers to separate the tie rod and LBJ from the spindle. The rear cam bolts in particular are difficult to access and require a crows foot line wrench to torque correctly.

 

Cheap little harbor freight tool works well to separate the lower ball joint. No special tool required to install into the LCA.

I'd recommend buying an OTC front end kit; can serve you well in working not just on your Tacoma but several other vehicles as well.

As for the bottle jack, unless yours was taken or something, it'll be part of your spare kit included with your truck.

 

I've watched several videos now on lower ball joint replacement (totally doable IMO), steering rack bushings (also doable), and LCA bushing removal/replacement - this one, while apparently doable, seems a lot more involved, and I would hesitate to take this one on...

I have the tools to do these jobs, and a fair amount of mechanical ability, but the removal of the LCA seems beyond what I might undertake. More research to come...

I didn't think I could replace my 2019 4R OR front struts & rear shocks, but with sufficient research and pandemic shop delays, I eventually took it on myself.

If I knew someone who'd done the LCA bushing job, and was willing to lend a hand, I'd probably take it on.

 

It's just removing some bolts in a particular order. It's not rocket science. Once you sit down and do it, you'll wonder why you were so worried about it, lol.

If you're just doing the control arm, you don't even need a pitman arm puller to pop off the balljoint (just remove the 4 bolts that hold the BJ to the spindle).

You'll need to un-bolt the steering rack in order to remove one of the cam adjuster bolts, and assuming the cam adjusters aren't rusted, those are easy to remove as well. Just mark the position of the cam bolts for when you reassemble, but an alignment after you're done is still recommended.

As for replacing the bushings, that can be difficult if you don't have a press, but you can always take the parts in to a shop and throw the guy a $20 and a 6 pack.

If you decide to go with poly bushings, the energy suspension ones are great, and you don't need a press. You burn out the rubber and clean it out, then slide in the poly bushings. Best part is the weird looks you get from your neighbors.

 

Hi Justin.

I appreciate the encouragement, thank you. You're right, it is more than likely just not having ever done it that makes it seem so daunting, but you're giving me hope that I can take this on...I figure if I have everything apart, and steering rack unbolted, I may as well have everything on hand to do BJs, steering rack bushings, and LCA bushings while I'm at it. It's not my DD, so I can take as long as I like.

This YT video documents this job pretty well, and he has a method of oem bushing removal that looks fairly easy, if it will work in most instances. @ 21:38 of the video:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=kmaZNBp1gZM

 

Might be bushings for sure, but my weatherstripping in the door seal makes all manner of squeaks when it’s dirty. Some of which of originally believed to be bushings (some of which were actually bushings).

I like to spray some oil into the holes and clean the thing regularly.

 

Got the truck back from the shop today. They recommend replacing LCA bushings and steering rack bushings, to the tune of $1300. Another $600 to do UCA bushings. Ouch...

I sure wish my son was still around. He & I used to work on cars together. He died tragically 15 years ago, and every time I walk by his old tool box I miss the times he worked with me on a vehicle. He could pull an engine in a day, and replace it the next. We would have knocked out this bushing job in no time. Miss you Ryan.

 

Decided I'm going to order parts and dive into this myself. Not finding the Whiteline lower control arm bushings on their site, however, so if anyone has a source, I'd appreciate a link, thanks.

 

You can just buy them anywhere online.

From whiteline, Amazon, polyperformance and many more.

 

I appreciate the response, thanks. I did get on the Whiteline site, and it said

$103 W53377A Front Lower Inner Suspension Control Arm Bushing Kit Compatible with 95-04 Tacoma, 4Runner

W53377A did not fit. Upon chatting with a rep on there, however, he stated they did. Do you have any input as to whether the Whiteline steering rack bushings are also good to use?