Front Diff passenger side needle bearing failure

Situation: Last year I had the front ARB repaired at a shop that specializes in 4wd vehicles. The air line was leaking and it was sending diff fluid up the breather and causing the the compressor to stay on at times. That repair went from a $570 estimate to $1200 after dropping it off because they did not calculate the time to pull the CV’s. They discounted it to $900. I was not happy, but I didn’t feel comfortable opening up the diff and diagnosing the issue. Pulling a CV is not an issue for me, but I bit the bullet.
This year, I drop the skid plate to change the oil and check underneath and I see diff fluid everywhere. It looks like its the passenger side axle seal. Diff was at least 10 oz low. I take the truck back to the shop thinking that they must not have seated the seal correctly, but its under warranty.
They report back after a week and tell me that the passenger side bearing (I’m assuming its like the driver side and its a needle bearing)is almost destroyed and that’s what is causing the leak. Cost to repair: $645.....
I think the seal was not seated, the diff leaked out too much fluid, bearing got scorched, and now I’m worried about the gears.
What would you do? My understanding is that the issue with a needle bearing failing is on the driver’s side.

 

DIY

@eon_blue didn't you just repair yours recently?

 

I replaced the seal on the pass side but not the needle bearing on the driver's side.

There is no bearing that I know of on the passenger side unless they're referring to his wheel bearing

If OP needs the needle bearing replaced I would take the opportunity to install the ECGS bushing in it's place

 

I do know from experience that if a CV axle nut isn't torqued all the way down, it will lead to failure of the wheel bearing. I cross threaded the axle nut once which didn't allow it to thread completely in place, ~300 miles later I was getting the wheel bearing on that side replaced. Any play there will destroy the bearing.

Would ask them to clarify which bearing it is they're talking about

 

Thanks for the quick replies. There is a bit of uncertainty on my end of what bearing the shop is referring to. I know it’s the passenger side and it’s in the diff from what they described. I have replaced the CV’s on both sides twice, once putting in an aftermarket that later failed and then again putting in my originals after rebuilding/booting. The shop called late in the day, not giving me enough time to put my eyes on the issue. I have read through the 15 pages of the ECGS bushing to replace the bearing on the driver side, but this is on the passenger side. Somebody on that thread did replace the passenger side with an OEM needle bearing.

 

I don't know how much different the ADD diff tube is versus a manual diff tube but here's the bearing and seal in the manual tube -

 

drivers side needle bearing is a common failure. replace it with an ecgs bushing. they sell a tool to pull out the bearing without removing the diff too. $120 total and you can do yourself

 

I guess there is a bearing on the passenger side, just did a quick search and a couple 2nd gen threads mention it. Didn't notice it when I did my seal but I wasn't really looking for it

 

Kwikvette, thank you for the photos. I don’t know how much different the auto or manual tubes would be. I found an exploded diagram and then from reading, the passenger side has ball bearing, not a needle bearing which is why it is less prone to fail and also why I question what could have caused it. I would be doing the work myself except that I drove it down there thinking it was “their” fault and I wanting the warranty work. At the time they called, the tech made it sound like the bearing was fubar so I could not just have them pop the CV back in and take it home. I’m going to take a look at it on Monday after I’m off work and chime back in over here. Thank you all for the info.

 

guess i didnt read ops post well enough. there is a large ball bearing on passenger side. not really known for failing though. its just a regular bearing thats easily replaced for cheap

 

so everyone is saying even my 1st gen drivers needle bearing is prone to failure? or when you start lifting the truck? I have 430k and have tried to feel for a vibrations, I don't have any as far as i can tell.

 

The needle bearing tends to cause vibes when you lift the truck, so some people replace it with the ECGS bushing. If you don't have vibes I wouldn't worry about it unless you're going in that far anyway

 

I’m not an expert on the issue. I did not even know it was an issue with 2nd and 3rd gens until I had the issue with the shop on the passenger side occur. From what I understand, the 1st gen is not nearly as susceptible but lifted trucks seem to have more of an occurrence. My truck has been lifted with about 2.5-2 .75” of lift since 07 and I have zero issues with vibrations.

 

There is a needle bearing on both sides of the differential, but on the RH side the axle is supported by another ball bearing that is right behind the axle seal and there is an intermediate shaft between the differential and the CV shaft, which is why there is no issues with that needle bearing when lifting trucks.

This is sort of a chicken/egg situation. If the bearing died and the shaft started moving around, it could take out the seal. If the seal was leaking excessively, it's possible that enough gear oil was lost that none was making it up into the axle tube. I suspect the bearing probably went first and took the seal out with it though, just feels more likely.

Jeff

 

Just got back from the shop. They never removed anything when they called me on Friday. They are basing their diagnosis on the play in the CV going into the diff. I’m going to pick up the truck and fix it myself. I agree with the chicken and the egg analogy, but they are making big assumptions considering they had the diff apart last year multiple times to fix the ARB air line. My biggest concern now is that my gears are chewed up, but I’ll look at what comes out in the oil when I drain it.

 

Sounds like you have a reasonable plan of attack lined up.
You'll get a real good idea of what's going on in there when you pull that magnetic drain plug. Wouldn't surprise me if you find everything is A-OK.

 

I also feel like this shop does not seem like they know what they are doing. Only person you can trust is yourself sometimes.

 

https://www.youtube.com/embed/sXIfHArtvF8

 

Thanks again for all of the replies. Timmah!, I have used your videos multiple times. I think yours was my main go to when I rebuilt and booted my CVs.

 

We replaced my needle bearing with the ECGS. Simple, and were idiots. You can do it man!