Front and rear wheel Hub/bearing assemblies… the same?

I replaced my two front wheel bearings but now one of the rear bearings is going bad.

(When I pop into Neutral, there is no effect on the humming/rumble ... that implies wheel bearing, and not the differential, right?)

Do the rear wheels use the same bearing/hub assemblies that the front wheels do?

 

No...totally different ball game back there
https://youtu.be/NRWOAxFqLos

 

Thanks for the video. Very informative seeing the whole job like that.

Drum brakes look a bit on the challenging side for me, not having experience with them. Potentially in reach though.

But sawing off the race ring and using the hydraulic press to extract and install... Yeah, that's something I'm gonna need pros for.

How much labor time would an honest garage charge for this job?

My local dealership double or triple charges for parts. I have trouble trusting them.

If I just give them the parts then they may double or triple charge me on labor as well.

 

The part seems reasonably affordable ...

• MOOG 512295 $170 Fri afternoon
• SKF $190 Fri afternoon
• Napa Auto $187 Thurs morning

Are there any ancillary parts I'm gonna need to order for the mechanic or would the bearing come with all of the replaceables likely needed?

Some googling around looks like labor estimates are two hours or less of mechanic labor.

Does that all seem right?

 

Maybe somebody will chime in but 2hrs seems low…I would probably go ahead and do both if it was mine… gonna need oil and seals to.

 

Rear differential needs to be drained and filled?

Seals are what exactly?

 

Rear axle seals… and I would want to get all the old oil out.. probably has metal in it if the bearings are bad

 

I actually just replaced the differential oil last month. That part, at least, is within my skill range

I don’t want to add things for the mechanic to do if I can save the labor charge and do it myself.

Is it required by the mechanic at the the time of bearing replacement or are you just suggesting it as a recommended add-on task?

 

Well..I’m just saying if it was mine and I was doing it myself…you will need to talk to your mechanic for his suggestion..

 

Mitchell shows 4.5 hrs to do both.

 

Depending on how you do the bearing, you will not loose much fluid.
If you get the side you are working on up higher then the other side, you won’t loose much fluid.
Any half decent mechanic should know this trick. BUT a good mechanic will always suggest fluid replacement and a new axle seal anytime you pull an axle.

As for the bearing, I vote SKF.

My labor estimate guide list the Remove/Replace of both the axle and the bearing at the same 3.3 hrs.
That isn’t right, you’re going to need a good 1-1.5 hours more if doing the bearing.

Something else to think about would be the wheel cylinder. (Rear brake)
Your’s probably aren’t leaking, but just be prepared “if” they are. There really shouldn’t be much more labor associated with replacing it. Just the parts cost. As the wheel cylinder comes off when doing the bearing.
I’d also recommend getting new hub bolt/studs, you’ll need 4. I don’t like reusing stud bolts. I will only reuse them if I have to.

If I had the tools, and I don’t, I’d need at least 4-5 hours to do it in the driveway.
I don’t have a press or jig. I’d probably pull the axle myself and take it to a shop and let them press the bearing on and off.
But that’s not always an option for some people.

Now, if you feel lucky, you could gamble on a whole axle assembly from Dorman (Dooman)
You could probably have the whole thing done in 3 hours or less if you are good at drum brakes (I am not, I hate them)

 

Chilton is 3.3 for all 3. Axle, Seal, and Bearing.
All 3 show the same labor rate…….nope, no way. That’s definitely wrong.

 

That's why they call it a labor guide, shops are free to charge what they wish for the most part. Some will deliberately quote high on a job they don't really want to do in hopes the customer will decline, others will quote high to start off with and if the job is cheaper than expected they will bill accordingly.

 

This guy would be quoting 5 hours for 1 side.
And 10 hours both sides.

Doing both sides doubles my odds of screwing something up.
Not to mention anything gear oil related makes my motivation for doing the job drop by about 100%
Drum Brakes and Gear Oil are 2 of the things I dislike the most.

 

What is the wheel cylinder, exactly? Not the drum, I take it?

 

It’s what pushes the shoes against the drum.

 

The wheel cylinders are what applies your rear brakes, the check on those is to pull the dust boot back. If they are dry behind the boot they are typically fine but if there is brake fluid behind it it should be replaced.

 

I am worried this is how the dealership is going to treat me. And, they vastly overcharge for parts.

 

For someone so worried about parts and labor pricing, maybe you should figure out what the noise actually is before speculating too much on cost. Pretty pointless to complain about dealer prices when you aren't even sure where the noise is coming from.

Get the vehicle up on jackstands, spin the wheels up to speed and listen with a stethoscope

 

And since most of us don't have stethoscopes handy, you can also put the plastic handle of a screw driver against your ear and the other end against the axle and listen for grinding that way too.