Frame surface rust…prep/prime/paint tips?

I am EXTREMELY fortunate to have a 2015 with a very nearly pristine frame. I’d like to keep it that way. There are a handful of spots with some light surface rust that have developed, and I’d like to sand / wire brush these spots and paint just the spots.

Can I get some solid advice from any auto body / paint professionals on here? Prep techniques? Primer? Paint? Any general tips?

 

If its just surface rust, brush or wire wheel it off, paint it with a quality paint, and get it fluid filmed or wool waxed if they use salt in the winter in NC...

 

No salt in my area.

What I’m looking for is any specific recommendations on primer/paint. Is primer necessary? Spray? Brush on? Maybe brush on is easier for more specific spots. What specific paint given it’s a frame member?

 

Straight fluid film will turn the rust a dark color so you won’t see it and arrest the rusting process in its tracks. If you’re like me and wouldn’t want the extra work of grinding and painting.

 

If it's bare metal you'll need an epoxy or etch first to bond to the bare metal. Then apply a primer or sealer. Then color/clear if you want. A product called ezcoat (spraybomb) we use that alot and is kinda an all in one product that bonds to bare metal, you can get it in most colors. I'd recommend a fluid film/rust check for the underbody and a cavity wax for thing like inner panels like fender/doors/inner rockers.

 

POR-15 bonds best to bare and lightly (surface) rusted metal. Follow the directions on the can. Use methylated spirits and steel wool to remove any Toyota-applied Noxudol or wax undercoating, a stiff wire brush or wire wheel to remove rust spots and a small margin around them, degrease and wipe, then brush on.

I did my 2009 frame with it and it has held up to bashing on rocks and logs, and the worst road salt in the US.

The only thing I would offer in addition to the manufacturer's directions is to knock down any hard edges with some sandpaper or a file before final degrease and application.

 

just fluid film regulaly to stop any progress

 

I read up on POR-15 in more detail and found that they sell a kit that has three products, a degreaser, an etcher, and then the paint itself. This is probably the way I’ll go if I can find a smaller version of the kit. The one I read up on would cover an entire application on the frame which obviously I don’t need.

 

You don't need to use their kit, especially for small areas. Get a small can or two of the POR-15, and use any degreaser you like - Simple Green is good, but even denatured alcohol is fine if you're thorough. As far as etchant, you can use naval jelly if you want. Again, inexpensive.

Take your time with the surface prep, get a couple disposable foam brushes to apply the POR, and whatever you do, don't get any on you... It WILL stay until the skin/hair wears off.

 

So much work lol. Soak everything in fluid film and the rust will stop in it's tracks, and no new rust will form.

 

Thanks! Seems pretty straightforward.

 

@Hook78 - I’d just go with fluid film, Cosmoline, or Amsoil HD metal protect.

But if you decide to use POR15, here’s a tip: don’t open the can. Turn it on its side and poke a small hole in the top side with a nail. Squeeze out some in a disposable container and then put a sheet metal screw in the hole preferably with a small rubber washer like one for a faucet. It’ll last forever that way. Opening the can will cause it to harden fairly quickly even if you put plastic wrap over the paint.

 

I'd wire brush the surface rust spots, spray on some satin black Rust Oleum, let it dry for a week then fluid film or wool wax everything.
Easy peasy.

 

Por 15 is for rust rot. It converts heavily rusted frames into a hardened surface. If you just have surface rust. Just wire wheel that sucker. What easier. Just remember to where a mask and safety glasses.

 

I guess we would need to see actual pictures of the frame to make an accurate recommendation

 

Fluid film is 1st generation lanolin based undercoating, Wool wax is improved but also lanolin based. Use wool wax. Wool wax is thicker and doesn’t smell like FF. It will require a little more pressure if you use a compressor. Also no overspray like FF if you use a compressor and do this in your drive.

 

The biggest problem is when the anti-rust coating is poorly applied (especially on the rusting, not very well cleaned surface),

and over time, water that gets under this coating can cause rust, because this rust will not be visible under this coating.

A regularly well-washed frame is the simplest method.

 

Water isn’t getting underneath Fluid Film bro.

 

Only if everything is 100% covered, which is absolutely impossible.