Frame Replacement: Quality, how they've held up, & rust prevention?

Hey TW!

Long time lurker here wanting to share that my 2010 single cab 4x4 Tacoma FINALLY got approved for a frame replacement! I took it in during its final week of coverage, and after multiple inspections over the years, they finally found four holes.

This was 1 month ago and I was quoted a 6 month wait for the frame to arrive (I live in Hawaii). I intended on finding local shops that could help coat the frame before the install, but I was notified today (surprise) that the frame came in on Friday and was already being worked on this morning. I called around quickly but every shop doesn't offer undercarriage/frame treatment, other than one that has experience powder coating toyota flames. But the techs are already nearing the halfway mark of the swap and I won't be able to have the frame taken to the shop

So, my questions:

1. Did Toyota improve the quality of these replacement frames? Or will they rust out quickly like the old frames?

2. Those who've gotten replacements, how have they held up thus far?

3. Rust prevention - should I bother with POR15/Fluid Film or just keep the frame as-is and wash it regularly? I fish often and there's salt in the air here. Frame crossed the Pacific on a barge so I'm sure it's already seen some salt lol..

FWIW, this truck started live in Alaska. Not sure if they salt roads there, but this truck rusted out quicker than the Tacomas we have on island.

Thanks!

 

The Dealer Maintenance records indicate my truck got a new frame in Feb 2018. At this point, nearly 4 years in the MidWest rust belt without "rust preventative fluid". The condition shows some light surface rust in a few places, nothing of significant concern.

 

Just left Maui today and there are some clean looking 1st gens there compared to even 2nd gens in my neck of the woods.

That being said, I can't attest to the quality first hand but I know this issue has been a major money pit for Toyota so I know they've worked on it. My dealership actually stated it has been a long time since they've seen any 2nd or 3rd gens that are in need of frame replacements or that were even close, if that tells you anything. They said around 2009 their front lot was lined with newer trucks that they had to buy back from the customers due to frame issues and they were just sent to the crusher.

As someone who is from Michigan I can tell you we see A LOT of road salt. My advice is to just get it coated anyway, especially since you fish and are presumably near the water pretty often. 1 oz of prevention is worth 1 lb of cure. Just be sure to avoid any sort of rubberized undercoating.

 

Welcome!

I have a single cab 2010 (note the sig)..I got Woolwax applied to mine 2 weeks ago.

No sure what you would spend to get it done or DIY the methods you mentioned, but I reckon it's cheap insurance especially since you have been given the proverbial clean slate. My truck has spent it's life in Massachusetts FWIW.

I've heard of people applying the Fluid Film and Woolwax themselves, either in spray cans or with a compressor so it's very doable yourself.

 

I hope to be spraying mine this week while the temps are still warm. Last year I waited till the end of fall with temps hovering in the low 40's high 30's, using Woolwax for the first time, found that it didn't flow as well as FF even heating the 1 gallon pail in hot water, so this year I won't make the same mistake.

 

I debated keeping the pool open another week when I saw this week's forecast..great timing for doing it absolutely

 

My last frame that I replaced we undercoated the top of the frame for the customer while the body was off, then fluid film.

I can tell you that undercoating is shit and doesn't work. You need a wax on the inside and a film on the outside.

Lastly, it is an updated frame, they don't rot nearly as bad, so don't stress too much.

 

Updated in terms of design, materials, something else?

I was talking to someone recently and recalling my wife's 96 buyback in 2008, saying that even my 2010 having the issue was one thing but for the 3rd gens to be suspected of it strikes me as strange it hasn't been puzzled out in that roughly 10 year timeframe.

 

I noticed compared to my frame the newer ones have more plugs and are sealed with a caulking compound. Do you think these improvements to the frame are the main reason for the extended longevity?

 

Cool, I'm from Maui and currently live here. Grew up in Toyotas and happily drive mine the sea of Tacomas here. They are THE perfect island truck. Im not very savvy when it comes to working on my truck, but I will without a doubt do something to mitigate the rust issue. If I can't find a shop (which it looks to be that way), I'll probably order some fluid film and give it a shot. It took me forever to find this tacoma model and I want to keep it around for the long haul.

 

Nice! How much did it cost to apply Woolwax? To powder coat the frame, unattached to the vehicle. I was quoted 1.4-1.5K. Someone else responded that they'll rust prevent the frame for $800, waiting to hear back on their methodology. Fluid Film seems user friendly to me, lots of people around here fo the POR15 route, but I feel like Fluid Film is pretty straight forward.

 

Glad to connect, I assume you're a tech with Toyota? My dealership couldn't answer whether or not the frame was an improvement over the old. Would really appreciate if you can share any knowledge on what was improved with the replacement frames.

Also, I assume you took those extra steps per customer request? What would I look for to apply wax on the inside, and film on the outside would be fluid film? Would be great to figure out what I'd need to do if I go the DIY route.

 

I sprayed mine in about an hour last week, with a good size compressor. I used about a half gallon of FF and the spray kit by Kellsport Products. $90 for the spray kit and $40 for the FF, I think I'll be able to get two applications out of one can. Pretty affordable insurance, if you've got a smaller compressor it might take a little longer to let it refill during spraying.

The hardest part was finding a gallon of FF. They kept coming in from Amazon opened and leaking into the cardboard box and USPS started to get upset. Finally found one in stock locally at a NAPA.

 

I ordered a 6 pack of aerosol Woolwax last year and coated my truck myself. I didn't have a compressor or anything so aerosol was best. Most of it is still on my truck since it is thicker than Fluid Film.

 

I see mention of powder coating a frame. I’d never powder coat anything that has a chance of getting scratched or chipped in a rust prone climate. Once there is an opening in the coating it will trap water against the bare steel and promote further corrosion. When the snowplow companies started to powder coat the blades we noticed once they got a bit of use they’d start to rot the moldboard steel at an incredible rate compared to painted steel.
It’s a similar process to what happens under undercoating in the rust belt states.

 

I don't know about Michigan roads but Pennsylvania has to be KING of salting the shit out of the roads. When I went in to have my frame treated with the CRC? stuff they put on I saw STACKS and STACKS of second gen frames out back of the dealership and I know that the last time I looked they were up to 2017 to have your frame checked to see if it was eligible for a new one. I would tell the OP that you have to treat the frame with some sort of rust inhibitor or it's just going to rot out again....give Toyota time....they've only had the frame rot problem since 1995 on the Tacoma's

 

I bought my 2010 used with just over 40,000 in Nov. 2016 and my frame looked pretty clean. I did a look over it before I purchased it from a dealer. About a month or so after I bought it I received a card from Toyota extending the frame warranty. In the meantime, I used some rust preventative from Eastwood, a bulk cosmoline, and sprayed my frame inside and out. I also purchased aerosol cans with the two-foot 360-degree extension for touch-up. I like the aerosol cans better for a DIY, easier to handle. The two-foot extension is small enough in diameter that you can insert it into the door and the rocker panel weep holes and spray the inside. In the case of the rocker panels, remove the rubber plugs. If I took my truck in for an inspection it would pass with no problems.
Since then I've been using aerosol Fluid Film and Woolwax as touch-ups with Woolwax the most recent. This past summer when we had a string of 95 plus degree days a gooey mess leaked out of the frame rails onto the garage floor so I know all the nook and crannies are coated. I have some Woolwax on hand and I regularly check my frame and touch it up whenever I see any signs of rust.
I live in Minnesota and have been dealing with this rust issue from road chemicals for 45 plus years and any vehicle I purchase gets a rust preventative treatment underneath. From my experience do not use anything that dries hard like rubberized undercoating because when it cracks it will increase the chance of rust forming and it will.
If anyone asks how I like the Tacoma, I tell them, mechanically it's sound, I have no trouble with it, but it's on an extended 12-year frame rust warranty. I tell them if you're thinking about buying, here's where you need to look for rust-through. I do think I turned someone off on the Tacoma because I now see a Colorado parked in his driveway. But, I know the old Ford Rangers and Jeeps CJ and Wranglers had a similar issue with frames.

 

Yes they are up to 2017. I went in to have my inspection done and that's when I asked them. Even on here I haven't seen many complaints needing new frames (if any) from late 2nd gen on.

 

My 09 has lived it's whole life in new england and was approved for a frame replacement back in 2018. So far the new frame is looking good.

 

A member here does it at his house, $75. Not sure how much the supplies are, I'm sure it's comparable to FF.