Fox 2.0 Coilover IFP and rear 2.0 Remote Reservoir review

Just installed Fox 2.0 coilovers, 2.0 remote reservoirs w/DC adjusters, and Wheeler's 3 leaf progressive add-a-leaves on my '09 TRD Off-road 4x4.

I had 43k on the factory Bilstein's with 1" top plate spacers (w/.25" add'l on driver's) and 1" blocks. The rear was shot (and have only towed maybe 4x)... Basically was riding on my Wheeler's superbumps when I did anything to compress the suspension. Granted, the factory leaves were level and had no negative bend (why I did the aal's instead of Deavers), but the rear superbumps put the bumps close to the frame (superbumps are awesome, but tall). The front was ok, but did feel a bit stiff and jarring. I was tempted to go with the Fox 2.5 extended travel coilovers and Light Racing upper arms. Frankly, being that I live in Georgia and mainly do relatively low speed wheeling, I decided the extra oil capacity and roughly 1" extra travel wasn't worth essentially an extra $1k (both 2.0's and 2.5's use Eibach 620lb springs). Also, the 2.0's have aluminum bodies and are rust resistant while the 2.5's are steel and will rust over time (also, bc of this the 2.5's can be adjusted on the truck wo compressing the coil while the 2.0's have to have the coil compressed when adjusting them according to Fox). So, after tons of research and not finding many reviews, I decided to write this.

Note: Lube the rear shock mounts/shock bushings and install the shocks before pressing the leaves together. I did the rear in my buddy's garage and getting the passenger lower shock mount in was crazy difficult. Took a rubber mallet and a ton of prying. It would likely be far easier on a lift (added a Roost shield the next day at a Toyota dealership and removing the mount was relatively easy... More on that later).

Note 2: The Fox rear shocks come with large lower bushings that have to be pressed out and replaced with the supplied alternate bushings and metal inserts. We used a variety of sockets and a vice to make the switch, but know that this will need to be done.

Note 3: Buy a single Roost shield from Wheeler's (they sell singles) for the passenger side (pass side is in front of the axle) and install it before mounting the shock because if you decide to do a shield, which you should if you ever hit gravel roads, you will have to remove the shock mount... Not fun, but was way easier on a lift.

I haven't played with the DC adjusters so I can't comment; however, they come on the softest setting and it's crazy forgiving with no weight in the bed. Thus, I can't comment on whether the extra $100/shock is worth it. If $ is an issue, just go with the non/DC adjuster 2.0 RR's. Edit: cd adjusters are worth the coin if towing and you like to play with them.

As far as the coilovers (mounted at Toyota on a Rotary lift), I compressed the passenger side Fox coil, loosened the locking Allen bolt on the collar, and turned the collar down 2.5 turns in order to account for the driver's lean. In retrospect, I wish I had gone the full 3 turns (measurements to follow).
Note: you absolutely DO NOT NEED the spanner wrench (despite Fox saying that I would over the phone... Luckily, they were back-ordered and didn't spend an extra $30).

Install was straight forward. Removed the 19mm bolts from the lower ball joint, the lower shock mount, the 3 17mm upper mounts, then loosened the end of the lower control arms so they drop, and the coil packs came right out. Note: I un-bolted the sway bar ends, but don't think it's necessary.
I installed the new coilovers, replaced all bolts/nuts, and tightened the lower control arms. I then went for a two mile speed bump frenzy to try to get them to settle a bit. Then hit the alignment rack. No issues with the alignment.

As far as the rear (done in a buddy's garage with super sketchy jack stands), I talked with Dan from Wheeler's Off-road for months before purchasing the 3 leaf aal's and Fox 2.0 RR's w/DC adjusters.
First and foremost, Dan is the MAN!!... Put up with tons of calls and questions, simply stellar.

The rear proved to be a serious PITA... 7 hours, ugh. The main issue was over-torqued U-bolt nuts that had stripped the U-bolts and required a 5 foot cheat bar and hours of cranking to remove... TORQUE U-BOLT NUTS TO 80lbs, period.
I would describe the install, but simply don't want to relive it. I will note that after breaking down the factory packs, I cleaned the leaves with WD-40 and greased the full length of the leaves where each meets.
Note: you will need a saws-all with 3 metal cutting blades (will need fresh ones even with blade lubrication) to cut the center pins (quite long and you can't mount the bump stops w/o cutting) and U-bolts (not necessary if you are ok with the U-bolts sticking out 1.5" below the mount).

Note: Wheeler's AAL's are designed not to be run with the factory overload leaf and since I don't do a lot of towing, I left it out. If you want to keep the overload, I've been told that approx. 1.5" needs to be cut from each end.

Measurements with 265/75 R16's w/ factory wheels, center wheel, and dead level on the alignment rack:
The passenger side was still 1/8" high (36 1/8"), the rear was basically dead level at 38"
Note: the truck was completely unloaded and when I (200lbs) stood in the bed, the rear was only 1" higher... Makes me think the aal's will settle more.

The ride: SIMPLY AMAZING!!!!! I really can't put into words how plush the ride is both on and off road. I can straight nail a rut or pot hole and laugh when the wife says, "wholly crap, that was totally worth $1600... Barely felt that!!" Bahaha
But seriously, it feels almost like a different truck. Incredibly forgiving, almost zero nose dive when braking hard, and super controlled. A+++

Note: I've ridden in rigs with Toytec coilovers, front (set at the second ring from the bottom) and rear 5100's, and Icon 700lb coilovers (has a heavy bumper) w/ Icon RR rear shocks (w/ AAL) and can happily say my setup is superior when it comes to the ride.

Pics to come... Gotta get in the woods for some good ones

 

Nice writeup. I'm in the market for exactly the same kind of setup.....plush road/town manners vs expanded off road prowess. it's good enough off road for my needs as it sits, but bigger tires require a lift to finish the project. looking forward to pix? I just wish fox didnt require the spring to be compressed before adjusting. major PITA and probably a deal-breaker for me.

 

I used the coil compressor at Toyota so it was quite easy. Once I get something where I want it, I leave it alone so the need to compress the coil for adjustment isn't a big deal for me. Also, the rust resistance of the aluminum is what finalized my decision. I will say the Fox valving is awesome... Like riding on a cloud haha

 

Nice write up! I agree the Fox Shocks ride great! My only complaint is the need to compress front spring prior to adjustment.

 

That's a good point....I didn't adjust my Toytecs but once over the course of 50K miles and that was within the first week of install. That said, as far as I know, Fox is the ONLY aftermarket manufacturer of an adjustable CO for our trucks that DOES NOT facilitate consumer adjustment like the rest. I wonder why that is? Liability? Hasn't been a problem that I can tell with the others.

 

I spoke directly to Fox about this and their reply/explanation was this:
1) They wanted to offer an aluminum bodied coilover in the 2.0 size to increase cooling capacity (aluminum dissipates heat faster) and avoid rust issues; consequently, this means the aluminum body's threads are not strong enough to have the collar adjusted under load.
2) Given the price point, Fox wanted to provide competition to brands like Toytec and Bilstein options which also require coil compression for adjustment. The Fox valving is definitely superior in my opinion. Much more forgiving (i.e. Doesn't feel stiff on road, but is exceptionally controlled off road).

Given all that and my location, they're perrrrfect for me. Saying that, I do want to crank the driver's side up another turn at some point (should've turned the passenger side down a full 3-3.5 turns instead of 2.5) and will likely attempt to compress that coil using my buddy's Snap-on coil compressors that should be small enough to slightly compress the coil on the truck. I will update on this when and if it happens... Debating on if 1/8" is worth the trouble of lining her up again and all.

 

get those pics up soon! very interested.. sounds awesome. have buddy in the Army coming home in July and he has been wanting me to research lifts for him as he bought a 2015 right before he left.

 

sub!

 

Thread is worthless with out pics..

 

Leaving for the farm in 5 mins fellas... Will get those pics up by Monday. And still loving the ride. Just remember the secret to getting a Taco level with the driver's lean is a 3 turn difference. Whether you go down 3 on the passenger or up 3 on the driver's side or mix it is up to preference. Will try to get some pics on level ground so you all can see the rake my truck has and you can go from there.

 

Almost 20K on mine, great ride, no problems with them at all.

 

Set at 3"

 

Rear, 1" block, air bags, inverted resi shock.

 

Chase

Try and get some measurements from center of hub to top of fenders if you have time. Thx

 

Had a stellar weekend. Tried to get her level for a solid shot of the rake. If you want it totally level (after you flex the rear a bit) and do a 1.5" progressive ALL on factory 3 leaf springs (2 regular leaves + overload), I would leave the passenger front coilover at the factory setting (2" lift), and turn the driver's side up 3 full turns.

Here are some shots of the Yotota this weekend with one of the 12.7lb channel catfish the wife caught and one of the bed and "puddle lights" I installed (COB LED lights off Amazon... PM if you want the link).

As far as the measurements, the numbers I included in the original review were taken on the alignment machine, thus they are the best I can offer right now. I have tried to measure it on several occasions and get mixed results... Sometimes the driver's side is high... I will post again when I check the alignment in 3-4 months.

As far as the ride, can't really say enough... Super controlled, hardly any nose-dive under hard braking, minimal body-roll, but incredibly supple. It was pretty dry in the bottoms this weekend so the ruts were dry, crazy rough and it was like being on a cloud. Crazy happy fellas!

 

Note: This is in my driveway after getting home. The bed was unloaded in this pic. The ones in front of the red mill are with a bed loaded with an AR-15, 12 ga, 4 handguns, and a full 5.56 ammo box. Bottom line is that the truck sits also most dead level with around 200lbs in the bed.

Also, played with the CD adjusters and found the "sweet spot" for me at the 3rd position from the softest. Still not sure the extra $100/shock is worth it, but dang cool to play with. True story, ha.

 

Nice! Very nice...

 

Good information here, thanks for that. I'm pulling the trigger this year on a new suspension, either Icon or Fox. Do you have the 2.0's with 0-2" lift, or 0-3" lift? Great looking truck btw.

 

I went up to 3 inch.

 

Appreciate the compliments. Shot for best balance of daily driver with zombie apocalypse capability... Feel like I'm pretty close.

Anyhow, like Mully said, you can definitely crank the 2.0's up to 3". I didn't go that high for CV and ball-joint longevity and the need for new UCA's (extra $452 for those sweet LR UCA's on his truck).

Still noting: The driver's side should be 3 full turn's of the collar higher than the passenger's side to account for the lean.