For those of you who have a winch-do you have circuit breaker/fuse protection?

Got it-thank you.

 

I don't know squat about winches...in all aspects except its intended purpose...to winch ONE out of trouble!

So, if the wench is connected all the time...which is what I'm deciphering here, when it is used...if there's an overload, power needs to be cut off immediately...yes?

Based on your explanation, this seems an easy suggestion.

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I set up a hitch mounted winch for front and back use last December and went through this debate. Hopefully my thread below helps a bit:
https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads/winch-wiring-advice-needed.694252/

I ended up using @Gilmorec61's switch and forgoing any fuses or circuit breakers. The switch and winch only gets switched on when I'm using the winch. No power, no problems any other time. So far so good with no complaints.

 

You are correct. If there is a short in the winch during use or in the cabling, the fuse will do the disconnecting.

 

This too?

https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads...witch-bracket-protect-your-investment.619464/

 

BINGO!

I suppose that was easy to surmise...I'll feel smart for a minute...lol!

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Not saying it's right for everyone, it's the way that I wanted to go I was already running a bundle of wires between a fuse/relay panel in the engine compartment to the general area of the switch (MESO sunglass holder switch panel). I already had the fuse holder from a previous project and I used a coupon for the solenoid. I had to add an extra spot for the relay onto the support that I was already making for the fuse/relay panel. In my case, the additional work was relatively negligible. It wouldn't have been done if I were paying someone else for their time.

The failure concern isn't really a major one for me. Should the solenoid or switch fail I can simply disconnect the connection for the battery to the solenoid from the solenoid lug and reconnect it to the lug on the solenoid to the winch side, essentially using the solenoid as a terminal block.

Nothing wrong with going simple and there's nothing wrong with a little convenience

 

What I find worrying are pictures where someone added a switch, circuit breaker of fuse but then leave the live positive terminals exposed. You get in an accident where your hood buckles or drop a wrench in the wrong spot during maintenance and you may create the problem you’re trying to prevent. A couple dollars for rubber terminal boots are cheap insurance relative to what is spent on a winch.

 

Thank you for posting this. I will be installing a winch in the next few months and had just been planning on a disconnect, but will now be using the 200A Blue Sea breaker. As the Come Up DV-9s I have is rated at a 5% duty cycle, if I run it long enough at max load to trip the breaker it is time to give the winch a rest.

This is the trip curve for the 200A Blue Sea.


So, at the full draw (350 amps), this breaker will give 20 seconds up to a little over 1.5 minutes of operation. This will vary with the ambient temp (breaker is rated from -40 C to 85 C, or -40 F to 185 F) and should some what track what the winches duty cycle can handle.

 

Anything going from the battery hot before a breaker will. Keep it short, the same thing going to an external fuse (box)

 

Nothing ever happens until it does. Whether your truck spontaneously combusts because no circuit protection or the circuit protection fails while winching. I know which situation I'd rather be in and have built my circuit accordingly.

 

Oh boy, CRS is setting in. Lol. @6 gearT444E here's that book on motors I mentioned. Chaos has not let dig into it though...