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Fix for bent control arm mounts?

Discussion in '2nd Gen. Tacomas (2005-2015)' started by TacoTuesday1, Nov 25, 2020.

  1. Nov 25, 2020 at 10:07 PM
    #1
    TacoTuesday1

    TacoTuesday1 [OP] Well-Known Member

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    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]

    aka "the pocket"
    if it's bent and messing up alignment,
    is the only way to fix it by replacing with JD Fabrication Lower Arm Pivots?

    [​IMG]
     
  2. Nov 26, 2020 at 2:28 AM
    #2
    winkel

    winkel Well-Known Member

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    If you're going to put that kind of work and cost into it, I'd check with a body shop that has a frame machine. Maybe they could straighten it for you.
    I have one like that, that I tried getting a seized control bushing out of with the Wheeler's press. I don't remember what it's called but it's a sturdy c-clamp type press. I was really wrenching on it and bent the front one on the passenger side. My alignment is fine and it doesn't give me any trouble.
    I tried beating it back with a BFH, but that steel is tough.
    I'd check with a body shop first, at least for an estimate.
     
  3. Nov 26, 2020 at 1:01 PM
    #3
    TacoTuesday1

    TacoTuesday1 [OP] Well-Known Member

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    yeah it is tough
    it'd probably at least require MAP gas torch heat and dropping down the control arm out of the way, so that when heating the metal to soften it (maybe up to red hot) to beat it with a hammer or air hammer, that the heat doesn't toast the bushing. (They're tearing now anyway)
    The hard part is gaining access. It's in such a tight spot that there isn't much room to swing a hammer or air hammer.
    Honestly if bent back into shape, the alignment could probably be fine. It would just look ugly underneath.

    I guess I'll ask to find out. I was worried they'd charge a lot,
    and at that point, might as well pay the same price to get the Pivot Kit that results in a bunch of upgrades at the same time
    For example if faced with "return to stock repair" for $200, or "upgrade in 3 ways" for $200, the upgrade option is always better
     
  4. Nov 26, 2020 at 2:20 PM
    #4
    winkel

    winkel Well-Known Member

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    True, but with shipping, you'll be in for $1,000, then you will need to find someone to disassemble the LCA's from the truck, cut off the old mounts, grind smooth and position and weld the new unit into place.
    You'll be in for $1,500 before you're done.
    If this is the route you want to go, rock on, I think it would actually be pretty cool.
    I'm curious to know what a frame tweak on this would cost. Please let us know what you find.
     
  5. Nov 26, 2020 at 2:43 PM
    #5
    TacoTuesday1

    TacoTuesday1 [OP] Well-Known Member

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    DIY is free
     
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  6. Nov 26, 2020 at 3:24 PM
    #6
    winkel

    winkel Well-Known Member

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    Well that's good. That should save you quite a bit.
     
  7. Nov 26, 2020 at 3:28 PM
    #7
    coopcooper

    coopcooper certified youtube mechanic

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    if you heat up high strength steel to a point where you make it malleable its going to make it brittle once it cools. There for turning hss into not so high strength. Ide be cautious of doing that.
     
  8. Nov 26, 2020 at 3:29 PM
    #8
    TacoTuesday1

    TacoTuesday1 [OP] Well-Known Member

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    true
     
  9. Nov 26, 2020 at 4:39 PM
    #9
    Taco'09

    Taco'09 Well-Known Member

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    IDK OP, that does not look too bad to me.
    With the arms off those mounts are pretty flimsy as it is. I might be tempted to just bent it back slightly using a large C-clamp and then finally by bolting the LCA in place with the cam bolt.
    FWIW I had the same thing happen, only much worse after hitting a bottomless sink hole in the pavement. I just took the arm off and mig brazed in a small internal cross-pieces similar to the OEM one used on the rear mount by using my crummy cheap-o 140 amp mig welder, a rented bottle of argon, and silicone-bronze wire. Why mig brazing? To keep heat lower and for known strength. It worked great on mine, seems to be strong, has been that way for a long time and I do off road.
    Here are a few links about he process:
    https://www.mig-welding.co.uk/brazing.htm
    https://rts.i-car.com/collision-repair-news/mig-brazing-what-is-it-why-should-i-use-it.html
    https://www.millerwelds.com/resources/article-library/silicon-bronze-mig-brazing-basics
     
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  10. Dec 20, 2020 at 6:40 PM
    #10
    Tacomasprime05

    Tacomasprime05 Well-Known Member

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    If it’s any consolation, I’ve trashed my LCA mounts too. I ordered the jd fab lower mounts and am working on the prep work now prior to finding a weekend to rip my truck apart.
     
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  11. Dec 20, 2020 at 7:22 PM
    #11
    MonkeyProof

    MonkeyProof Power Top

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    I rebuilt my LCA mounts using Dirt Designs pre bent gusset kit. Everyone of my mounts were cracked/separating
    20201220_191948.jpg

    20201220_192005.jpg
    20201220_192219.jpg

    20201220_192643.jpg
     
    Last edited: Dec 20, 2020
  12. Dec 20, 2020 at 8:14 PM
    #12
    Tacomasprime05

    Tacomasprime05 Well-Known Member

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    Yeah I would of gone with a less invasive option like this, though the alignment bolt holes were rounded out and there was no hope of restoring factory bolt holes. Solid job though!
     
  13. Dec 20, 2020 at 9:23 PM
    #13
    TacoTuesday1

    TacoTuesday1 [OP] Well-Known Member

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    Been looking at doing this as well. Would probably DIY and buy a Hobart 210MVP.
    After hearing quotes of 17+hr @100/hr from fab shops, seems like a ripoff.
    Doesn't take 10 hours to loosen a few bolts and drop a control arm.

    Didn't know this product even existed. I wonder how to get it. All I see is their FB page with pictures but no website with products catalog

    looks like a parts kit that could even be made at home
    unless it requires bending which may cost too much to buy a bender
    vs just buying plasma cutter
     
  14. Dec 20, 2020 at 9:30 PM
    #14
    MonkeyProof

    MonkeyProof Power Top

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    You need to email or call the dude

    There's two offerings of the kit, pre bent or straight.
     
    Last edited: Dec 20, 2020

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