Finally fixed some rusted rocker panels

Finally got around to fixing my rusted out rocker panels. The only shop that would touch it estimate $6k for fully replacing body panels - so I quickly got to looking up how to do the work myself.
I had it from a trusted source that my best option was to:
1- cut, grind, and brush off as much rust as possible,
2- make new panel sections using galvanized flashing and screws
3 - seal it up really well with seam sealer
4 - paint it using primer, chip guard, color, then 2-part clearcoat.

I -mostly- followed that advice. I'll share what I did, what pictures I took along the way, and the end product. I'm pretty happy with the results.

Here's what I started with. Extensive rust holes on the drivers side. in some places it extends to the inside of the rocker panel as well, but not everywhere. Mostly in the rear (where rock and gravel tend to chip) but also a smaller simpler hole near the front.


First job was to cut, grind, and clean out as much rust as I can - bearing in mind that I still need some metal to fasten the new metal to.


Next is to make the new panels. I picked up a 2'x4' sheet of zinc plated stainless steel flashing from home depot - cost me about $50. Finding which fastener to use was a bit of a riddle. The body shop guy that gave me the advice said to just use exterior self-tappers, but screws seemed like a potential spot for water ingress over time in addition to being pretty high-profile. After searching I went with marine-grade stainless blind rivets. If it's good enough for a boat, it's probably fine here (at least that's my hope).
Before anything I used 2-3 coats of Eastwood Rust Encapsulator on all surfaces, bare or otherwise.
I tucked the top seam into the door jam to hide the lines of the new panel and shaped the corner to sit tight. I left the rest of the piece long so as to form and cut it in place since the other seam will be hidden underneath the truck. More or less I just hoped that it would bend more or less in line with what was left of the rocker panel, and I'm pretty happy with how it turned out! It was a lot of lying on my back bending, pressing, snipping, grinding, and adjusting. Lots of swearing trying to get the rivets in tight as well, but it paid off.
I don't have a welder, and all the shaping was done cold using tin snips, channellocks, a ball-peen hammer and my "anvils" where my tailgate and the curb. Ocassionally used a die grinder/dremmel tool but probably could've done find without. This was by far the most time consuming part.

And After:


Next was sealing the new panels. I used some Great Stuff (expanding foam insulation) to fill the cavities. Was this totally unnecessary? Maybe - but it did make me feel good. Then I used Eastwood Brushable Seam Sealer on all the seams, gaps, etc. I probably couldve saved some money by getting a tube of the normal seal sealer, but I'm just not going to sweat it. Now I've got a ton of sealer for something else. - i didn't get photos of sealing. Not much to tell. Pretty easy and relaxing part of the job.
I went back and forth on whether to drill drain holes. I ended up not - which I am still unsure about but I can always add some if I really want.

Final was paint. This is a 21 year old truck, and I've gone down the road of trying to color match to little success. Furthermore, spray can clearcoat can never be as hard as true clearcoat. Knowing that hardness and weather resistance are my biggest priorities, I landed on using a bedliner. I struggled with choosing a bedliner since there is a lot of variation. I landed on Raptor 2k spray since activated aerosols cure far harder than shelf-stable rattlecan varieties, but at $30 a can its not for all applications. I choose to follow the body line that runs ~1/3 up from the rocker panel. You could definitely save paint by going lower, but I decided to make my new two-tone paint job a feature, rather than a defect. I am pretty happy with it in the end. I would even extend the line down and around the bed but for the fact that I am replacing the bed with an aluminum flatbed in a few months. I'll be making the passenger side match as soon as a few more cans of paint arrive doing just the driver side and door jams took 3 whole cans).




And finished product:

 

Hey that looks real good to me. I need to do the same thing. PO sprayed color match paint over rusted rocker panels on mine.

 

That definitely went through my mind. Like I said in my post, I’m not certain I did it the perfect way.
My thinking was that if I sealed the new panel with only air in there, it would be guaranteed to go through cycles of condensing, freezing, etc since I live in a humid climate. the foam takes up air space and the closed-cell structure will keep some moisture away from metal. But honestly I don’t know if that’s correct, or misguided. Time will tell I suppose.

 

Looks great I need to do mine sometime soon. Was either thinking this method, or doing a full cut and weld since I have a welder

 

What flatbed are you going with for this truck?

 

I put in an order with SET overland. Costs more than my truck is worth, but cheaper than a new truck.

 

You're going to give Westerners a heart attack with pictures like that.

 

Looks great OP, we’ll done!

 

the Rust Gods will take their pound of iron - but that doesn't mean we have to give it to them! cheers!