Factory E-Locker in Open Diff Rear End

Here's the deal... 17 TRD Sport Manual Trans which makes life hard as it is to find parts... I need to upgrade the R&P to 5.29 for the bigger tires. No big deal. I also want to lock the rear end... it's stupid expensive to do that, so ECGS can sell a complete third member with the 5.29's and all new guts WITH the factory Toyota E-Locker rear diff for $945 plus shipping (after my core of course).

SO, my question is this: has anyone done this swap and, if so, what wiring did you do? Theoretically, the plug at the diff is a 2 pin plug, so positive and negative. I was told it was a 5V ref., so stepping down from 12V to 5V would be simple enough and wiring to my switch pod - however, I would assume there is some kind of relay to actuate the diff lock motor on/off... or is that built in to it? I want to be cynical enough to think that it can't be as easy as power/ground to pumpkin from switch and voila - we have a locking rear end.

Thoughts? Feedback? Anyone done it this way? I'd prefer Electronic over Air... Thanks!

 

To my understanding it’s a pulse-width modulated signal to the diff electromagnetic coil. More current is drawn as it is engaged, then the current is lowered to hold the lock in place. I’m not sure you can just apply + and - and call it good.

You will have to research this.

 

How does this work? The 3rd gen e-locker third is for a larger 8.75" axle. The 2nd gen e-locker third is for a smaller 8.0" axle.

 

The manual Sport comes with the bigger rear.

 

subbed. I wanna know too...

 

So the 2nd Gen Elocker could work in a 3rd Gen AT diff?

 

It's been done here https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads/2017-e-locker.585669/

There is some info on powering the locker in this thread https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads/rear-diff-lock-anytime-mod-3rd-gen-development.537810/

 

You mean if a 2nd gen E-locker third would fit in a 3rd gen AT housing? Call ECGS and ask. There may be detail issues like different axle shaft spline counts: https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads...le-installing-arb-or-carrier-bearings.505215/

 

Just to make sure I understand correctly, you're going to be trading in an open diff for an e-locker diff, correct?

If that's the case your pricing estimate is off. $945 is the charge for an exchange of a stock e-locker diff for another 5.29 e-locker diff. The charge for an e-locker is an additional $1314. Check out my estimate from ECGS, look at the front diff e-locker charge line (I have a factory e-locker rear).


edit: here's one where they actually added it all up correctly:

 

More info.

https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads/e-locker-for-3rd-gen.481725/page-3#post-23942908

 

So bottom line might just be easier to use the ARBRD232 Air Locker and say screw it... I'm not an electrical engineer so +/- is basic enough for me - getting into PWM is not something I feel like messing with - just curious if it WOULD work because at the end of the day, it might be better to go with one assembled. I don't know, jsut tossing ideas around.

 

You can go with the Harrop e-locker which is a basic electrical on/off: https://eastcoastgearsupply.com/i-23993414-8-75-tacoma-non-elocker-third.html

 

The whole idea behind the PWM is it takes much more energy to cause the lock to engage, than to keep it engaged after it has moved. By using PWM Toyota can lessen the duty on the lock magnet coil after it has engaged thus reducing heat buildup long term. Whether or not it’s rated for continuous high current is unknown to me or likely anyone on this forum.

What Toyota has done is standard practice for any large industrial electromagnet using what they call an “economizing circuit”. I give kudos to Toyota for doing this as it tends to make parts last longer and increase reliability, but it is certainly a hassle for the person trying to fit this e-locker as an aftermarket add-on.

 

The standard installation for manual control I have been recommending for a toyota 3rd gen elocker is:

Use 1.5 ohm power resistor to reduce voltage entering lock coil. (Will require a heatsink, will get quite warm).

Use a fly back diode for voltage spike control when shutting off the coil

Use a relay for locker power.

WARNING- locker will be able to be activated at any time and may cause risk of death, etc if activated on interstate, etc.

A 4lo interlock (requires vehicle to be in 4lo to activate locker) has been tested, and can be added if desired.

 

My preference is for an ARB without using the included electrics. Throw out the switches and air solenoids and replace with pneumatic switches. Simplifies the wiring down to... well nothing except an air source. I use a paintball CO2 cylinder with a regulator down to 100PSI. This is on my Samauri.

When I do the front diff lock on the Tacoma it will be an ARB with the air source from the compressor which will already be present for airing up tires after a run. I can recommend anybody with a closed cab to source a "Vented Pneumatic switch" that does not vent into the cab. The switches in the Samauri vent to the atmosphere and that is into the cab, and I smell gear oil upon deactivation. That is my only complaint with this system.

The best part is there is no two paths to trouble shoot, only one - the air path. In electronics you have the 12VDC source path and the return path with Ground. An air leak requires no meter to detect, you can hear it if it is bad enough to be giving you trouble. Repair is a splice in the tubing. I carry spare tubing, a switch and push to connect splices. I also carry the old ARB solenoids and switches which I have depleted my original supply of four each to repair those who have needed them on the trail.