Factory Door Insulation Stuff

All my sound deadening shit will be here sometime today. Before I remove the factory insulation stuff, should I be careful so I can stick it back on, or just rip it off and toss it? I bought extra clips...just in case. My tunes will arrive tomorrow.

The door panel came off most easy. Hope it goes back on as easy!

 

I carefully peeled the bottom part of it off and clothes pinned it to the bottom of the window frame. I was able to get everything in the door through the lower opening. Then just re-stick the plastic back where it was when done.

 

The sound deadener will have the biggest effect if applied to the inside skin of the exterior of the door, not to the inside of the door where the existing felt and plastic water seal is. Although it can be removed and reapplied, unless you're super OCD, there's no need to remove any of the felt and/or plastic on the doors to do that. Ultimately you don't want to remove the plastic as it's designed to keep water out of the interior of the door.

You can apply the deadener to the inside of the door skin by removing the speakers (4 front and 3 rear x 10mm bolts). It'll take a little contortion on your part, but do some exploring by reaching up inside through the speaker opening with your hand at first, both with the window up and with the window down, to determine where to apply the deadener. You'll want to avoid the window mechanicals. There's actually quite a bit of room. If you really want to get to the top inner door, up around the door handle, you can peel some of the plastic back. The butyl sealant is super sticky so you should be able to stick it back in place when you're done.

You can cut the Noico sound deadener up into smaller pieces with a box cutter. Lay it down on some cardboard and slice the shiny side to whatever size you'd like to slip it through the speaker opening. You can fold it back against itself (shiny side to shiny side) to slip it through then open it up again inside the door. It's über sticky so be careful as you put it in place. (It can be pulled back off but that usually ruins that piece so you'll need to start again.)

Starting at the top and working your way down seems to work best. If you overlap or miss a bit, that's okay. No one's going to check your work. Once in place, press it full and tight against the metal, especially the edges. It'll get hot in the Florida sun and you don't want it to peel away. Press one piece in, determine the next piece's size, cut and repeat until you're down to the bottom. The roller's helpful (you can see the roller marks on mine in the photos below), but it's not absolutely necessary as long as you use some decent pressure when applying it.

Also, great that you bought those tiny white clips. The last time I pulled the driver's door all three on that little triangle trim bit ended up falling down inside. The trick is to remove them from the door and pop them back onto the trim.

Great investment of your time! It'll cut down on road noise, improve the sound (especially base) and it'll sound like a refrigerator door when you shut them.

Hope that helps!

 

I managed to pull the factory stuff up enough to get to the inside of the door better. Used a magnet to hold it there. It stuck back in place great when I was finished.

Covered maybe 70% on the inner door. It ain't pretty, but it should work okay. Nice to have all the shit work done, it should be a breeze when I get my head unit and speakers tomorrow.

 

Excellent post, thanks!

 

Great job!

I'm hesitant to pull the plastic water protection off of the doors anymore. I've done it a few times on other vehicles and a couple were really a bear with the plastic tearing and/or the adhesive no longer sticking. I found water getting inside the door on one that I thought was good to go when I reinstalled it. The adhesive had let go in a couple of places later. On another I had to buy new plastic and cut a whole new piece for the door. Just removing the old stuff and applying new

$10 ZXMT Butyl Sealant Tape, PROMOTOR Sealants Butyl Rubber Tape for Installing Car Part, Windows, Doors and Windshield etc.

butyl sealant (a real PIA to work with) was wasted time I'll never get back. So I'm reluctant to remove it anymore. Glad you were able to get 'er done that way though. You'll be glad you did it when everything's in and cranked up!

 

Forgot to mention for anyone that follows... here are replacement door trim clips and door card retainers clips if you happen to break or lose one (or two or three):

Door panel retainers:

$9 Rexka 30pcs Door Trim Panel Retainers Clips Compatible with Lexus Toyota 90467-A0005 Camry, FJ Cruiser, High Lander, RAV4, 4-Runner ES 350, GX 470, is 250, is 350, is F, LS 460 & LS 600HL

https://www.amazon.com/Rexka-Retainers-90467-A0005-Cruiser-4-Runner/dp/B07D6KSFQS?th=1

Tacoma door trim clips

$6 Rexka 20pcs Door Garnish Moulding Retainer Clip Compatible with Toyota Lexus 67771-58010 Tundra Tacoma Sequoia RAV4 Land Cruiser Highlander C-HR Yaris Scion xD

https://www.amazon.com/Rexka-Moulding-Compatible-67771-58010-Highlander/dp/B08R247XX6?th=1

 

I thought I was buying the door panel clips, but bought a bag of the trim clips. Glad I did because 2 on the drivers side vanished.

After I got my drivers side door on, I noticed a space at the bottom, took it all back off...only takes a couple minutes after you've done it before.

I was missing two door panel clips, I found one where I had the door panel, but never found the other. If it fell out I'd have seen it so I'm guessing it came like that? Door panel is nice and tight all the same.

 

More like a German car!

 

Yeah, those little trim clips can be fun.

Our door panels had all of the retainers. They're pretty hardy and no problem on the Taco, but I've managed to squish a couple on other vehicles so I keep a few spares JIC.

 

Got everything finished up today. I'm most happy with the sound. It's far from kick ass, but a well spent just under $600 for a major improvement over my factory tunes. All the steering wheel controls work, and the back up camera. I linked my phone to it, but yet to try it out. It has some kinda Android, and Apple shit in it, not sure it would be of use to me thou. It also works with the factory USB port, that's what I listen to all my tunes on.

Now to decide if I'm gonna throw the factory one in the shed, or list it on FB market place. Is there even a market for them, and the stock 6x9's and tweeters?

 

I'm hoping to instal my 6x9 kickers and sound deadening this weekend. Got the trim clips but didn't get the retainers. Maybe I wont mess up. Thanks to all for the tips.

 

Congrats! I've seen OE speakers on FBMP and Craigs. They don't seem to get a lot, maybe $100 for all? I believe your Entune 2.0 stereo may be worth something to someone. No idea how much they're going for since there aren't many out there. Every little bit helps.

Enjoy!

 

Fun! The trim clips are small and easily fall into the door. If any are left, remove them and pop them back on the trim piece and then reinstall it. Much easier than trying to push the trim back into them. The retainers may pop off of the door panel and stay in the door itself. No big deal. Just pop them out with a trim tool and slip them back into the door panel and you'll be good. I didn't do it with the Taco, but I've put a little dab of silicone lubricant on the tips of the retainers so they pop back into the holes a little easier on other vehicles.

Let us know how it goes!

 

If the goal is not involving improved quiet/quality of stereo sound...just to reduce cab noise levels while driving, what is most important area of the cabin to apply sound deadening mats? I want to start there. Where is "there"?

Behind the back seat, rear wall of the cab?

Door panels?

Cab floor? Or, roof?

 

I always start with the doors since one's right next to me and the doors are overall the easiest, quickest and least-involved/expensive way to make a big difference. That said, yes to all of the above, besides the door panels - floor, rear wall, roof, etc. You can go crazy and end up with a cabin Lexus would be proud of.

There are a lot of posts on the subject if you search. This one's a good start:

https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads/sound-deadened.797469/#post-28575913

Hope that helps!

 

Nice work OP. I just had the entire interior out of my truck over the weekend. Sound deadened the floors, roof and back of cab. Door are next on the list when I buy more material.