Experience, advice on replacing leaf-springs...

Alright, I got my brand new full OME setup today. Dakar leaf-packs, Nitrochargers all around, and 882 coils.

I'm a little bit intimidated to change out the leaf-springs. Those bolts...well, they're on there pretty darn good. Couldn't bust loose the shackle-nuts, and the u-bolt nuts only came loose with a very convincing cheater-bar on my wrench.

I didn't get very far, as it's starting to get dark, I have no outside lighting, and my neighbor hates me and wouldn't like any noise after dark, so I put everything back together so I can drive the truck tomorrow. Looks like this is going to be more of a weekend project now.

I'm obviously going to soak EVERYTHING in PB blaster.

Anything else I can do? I could always take a propane torch to the stubborn ones, but I'm reserving that option for last.

Also, when installing the new leaf-packs...any tips or essentials I should know? What about the flipping the u-bolts mod I read about?

If you can think of anything else, I'd be grateful.

 

Can't flip the U bolts without welding a new shock mount to the axle. Plus you'd have to have the stuff for that anyways.

You need to do a bit more reasearch. And you might need to get some new U bolts and bolts for the leaf packs. Often you have to cut off the OEM bolts to the leaf packs. No always..but sounds like you might be in that boat..

The PB soaking will help tho.

Id also call a friend to come help too, especially if its your first time.

 

When you are ready to install the new leaf pack, be sure to loosen the U-bolts on the opposite wheel, otherwise the leaf pack may not line up nicely.

 

id drop both packs at once..then loosely bolt everything up. then suck it all down to spec.

 

Alright, I *do* have new U-bolts! Haha, one step ahead!

Cutting may work, especially since I don't care about the old leaf-springs...that may be quicker.

Once I get the old off, getting the new on should be a piece of cake. I'll just carefully tighten them at roughly the same rate, alternating, so one side doesn't come out of alignment...

I've replaced trailer-axles before, it's similar, but, wow, these do NOT want to come free.

Oh, one more thing....the bump-stops. Stock springs have them, my Dakars do not. Will this be an issue? I do not plan on beating on this suspension anytime soon. Only a light flogging occasionally. Is it possible to transplant them, if needed? Oh, I'm sure I'll figure this out on my own....

Thanks guys, I didn't even think of cutting the u-bolts...when all else fails, sometimes it's time to cut, grind, and beat with a bigger hammer, eh?

 

Yep cut away man. The U bolts will be easy to cut. If you have to cut the bolts off to get the leafs off..try not to damage the mounts obviously.

Just reuse the stock bump stops. You'll see how they work when you take the leafs out.

 

http://www.tacomaworld.com/forum/1st-gen-tacomas/55486-1st-gen-suspension-install.html
The bumpstop is on a backing plate that's held down by the U-bolts. Easy to transplant.



Alternatively you can buy Wheelers Superbumps as an upgrade, though they have a long order lead time (1 month+).

 

Before I began installing those paks...
I'd remove the center bolt of each pak
Replacing those with a grade 8 cap nuts/bolts.
and torque those puppy's real tight W/red locktite

If you haven't extended your Rr. brake line
be mindful of that when working on the driver's side.
If your Rr. shocks limit the droop so as not to stress the brake line
during operational use of the truck, you could get away without.

Tho' it's probably a good idea to be thinking about extending that line.
Makes one thing less to worry about when yer lowering the axle.

 

I did mine pretty much by myself with almost no help , cut the old bolts, reuse the old bump stops, (I did it). I had to cut off the front spring bolts off, I used a 4 in cutoff wheel. Just make sure you got new ones. I can post a picture of reuseing the bump stops tomorrow (and of anything else you need to see lmk ). And your u bolts are extended right, stock size is a bit short .

 

X2 watch the brake line, and your driveshaft, mine popped out I let the axle hang to low when I took both springs out (my mistake)

 

Alright, off to bed for me. Thanks for the tips and advice, guys. I'll be sure to get a jack under the axle, so I can lower and raise it at will, without popping anything. I'm going to forego the extended rear-brake line for the moment, as I don't plan on doing any crazy flexing of the rear-end....plus, I don't have the extension at the moment.

As for new spring-bolts, any ideas on the size of them and thread? I'm sure I can find out myself.

Yes, the new u-bolts are extended size, quite a bit longer than the stock ones. I already checked that.

I may do what you adbise, TacoDell. I need to go to the hardware store tomorrow, anyways.

I shall have more to report as the weekend goes on.

 

I got an extended brake line but my stock one was and still is on there and I can't remove it. I had to do a "cheap trick" lol to get more out of it.

 

I have nothing to offer......

 

Your presence is enough, good sir.

 

If you live in a area that is prone to rust you shit might be seized up. Soak then good with some WD40 and worst case you may need a torch to remove the bolts. Hope you ordered new ubolt kit main eye bolt kit and etc. it's good to replace them now even with greasable ones.

 

I was being a little sarcastic Dougie....



Hey, at least your U bolts are tight unlike the 30 or so 2nd gen. axles I've dropped, brings up a point tho'. don't do one side at a time, drop the axle as a unit, dont know how much lift your getting but ya may wanna plan on an extended brakeline & consider a BPV relocation bracket & you also may need 2-3/4" spacers to drop the carrier (if vibration developes, not uncommon to tacomas 1st & 2nd gens.) also get a strap to sling the front of your rear diff. this is a life saver & like having a third pair of hands because I promise you , as soon as the axle seperates from springs its going to roll forward on you & the loosly slung sling will stop it from doing so.... & also disconnect the cable that runs across axle controlling the E brake

 

X2 on the bpv bracket I found it very necessary

 

To be clear, he means the main eye bolts at the front of the leafs attaching them to the frame. This is an important point. From the looks of your rust, these bolts will be seized in the bushings and will need to be cut. Did you buy new ones?

Yes, look out for this.

yes, yes, yes.

BPV is important for correct braking power and safety. You can fab a PBV bracket out of scrap. You just need to create a pair of holes that are offset the same amount of you lift. 2-in lift, 2-in offset.
See shiny aluminum bar near diff VVV

 

Couple more things:

Links to good writeups here:
http://www.tacomaworld.com/forum/1s...y-how-thread-compiled-list-helpful-links.html

Rear shackles: People often don't understand that the rear shackle uses a pins-and-plate assembly, not two individual bolts that that slide out independently.

Undo the two nuts, take off that plate, then tap out the other pins and opposite plate as a single assembly.

See attached diagram.

 

OH YEAH, I think I read you mentioned about cutting the old leafs off since you didn't care about them ? .. UNDER NO CIRCUMSTANCE should you attempt to do this because as weak as the springs are theres still tension & load on them & if cutting with cut off wheel, it'll bind, start to fragment & basically pepper you with disc splinters as it comes apart at 10000 rpms (kinda like a porcupine throwing its quills at you, I've had wheels come apart on me & do this, not fun...