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Engine rebuild vs Crate engine ?

Discussion in '1st Gen. Tacomas (1995-2004)' started by DevynCS, Sep 18, 2018.

  1. Sep 18, 2018 at 12:58 PM
    #1
    DevynCS

    DevynCS [OP] Member

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  2. Sep 18, 2018 at 4:39 PM
    #2
    Sebz13

    Sebz13 appy polly loggies

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    a dropped one and a high one
    Also interested in this, My 2rz on my 5 lug is approaching 230K, I have NO issues, but good information to have.
     
  3. Sep 18, 2018 at 4:54 PM
    #3
    villlein

    villlein Well-Known Member

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    SAS with dodge D60/D70, 36 iroks, 5.86's welded rear, Eaton lock, OBA, half back cage, rear mount radiator, etc...
    A rebuild will seem cheaper at first....but it's not- unless you've done several rebuilds, have all the tools, have plenty of space, have plenty of time and know that you won't f... something up. Rebuilds are really fun for those who want to get into a custom build (boost, nox, etc) OR for people with a good buddy who's well experienced. If it's your first rodeo, a rebuild can be a nightmare, if you know it well and have the tools- they're a great weekend gig.

    An engine swap with a crate can really be fun for your first rodeo, but I always buy a few new items while I'm in there...steering pump, belts, etc. I mean if it's getting a new engine, make sure it's right and tight so you're not under the hood again in a few months for something silly. Just keep that in mind when $$ is being decided.

    All said and done, if it's not a project, just get a long block, replace the older bolt ons, and you have a reliable simple job.

    If it's a mediocre project, get a short block and have somebody tune the heads and cam at a machine shop.

    If it's a full on project car, get an LSX motor or something silly. Even a 350 chevy, ford 460, or 351 windsor are fun to mess with.
     
    timothom and floodedkiwi like this.
  4. Sep 18, 2018 at 5:02 PM
    #4
    villlein

    villlein Well-Known Member

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    SAS with dodge D60/D70, 36 iroks, 5.86's welded rear, Eaton lock, OBA, half back cage, rear mount radiator, etc...
    Let me repeat, I know the rebuild kits are cheap, but if you haven't worked with a head gasket, or buffing the old material -you could really screw up and require a new block.

    If you're not patient to scrape gaskets and keep coolant and oil galleys clean, you could burn a cylinder quick, clog a lifter, etc.

    IF you don't seat the rings properly or install one upside down, you can need a new block.

    Most machine shops near me have a 3 week wait time- so once you take everything apart and have the block honed, or bored, and re-surfaced for head gasket, you're waiting a while. Machine shop work can eat into your budget too, checking for cracks, dipping the block, etc.

    Just keep this in mind when you see the cheap prices and "easy" write-ups. Rebuilds are generally not a weekend project- I love them, and have 4 builds mapped out in my dream folder, but it depends on your life at the moment.
     
    Oldie2007 likes this.
  5. Sep 18, 2018 at 5:36 PM
    #5
    Wsteven

    Wsteven Well-Known Member

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    I have done multiple Engine Rebuilds not only Toyota engines but other Engines that required a great deal of time invested into them also have done a couple Out-board boat motors they were a real pain because special tools required with that said will it cost less to rebuild it yourself? Might and that depends on how you value your time and what tools you already own if you do not have the right tools you go buy or rent them add that cost on..... Most of the time it actually will cost you more to rebuild it yourself... add time and gas for trips to the machine shop... Oh crap the Crank shaft has damage to the Journal... New crank... bugger the cam shaft is worn below spec..... awww man we magna flux checked the heads and one has cracks.... $$$$ need new valve guide sleeves.... when you get into a engine like the V12 in the pictures that is when the $$$ is no Object and they take a great deal of time to do. So best Route is a long block from a place that has good reputation.

    31v12club_mt.jpg
    31cadvrdst_motortop2.jpg
     
  6. Sep 18, 2018 at 5:42 PM
    #6
    Oldie2007

    Oldie2007 Well-Known Member

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    True that on the rebuilds. But unless you can and will EAT off every piece you touch, outsource it! I've only done two myself in my life, and yes, it tasted a little like old oil, but both ran. Of course, it also took me months to do the work as I ran into things. AND, this was with 50's and 60's technology! Just sayin....
     
  7. Sep 18, 2018 at 5:51 PM
    #7
    2004TacomaSR5

    2004TacomaSR5 Nemesis Prime

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    Tacoma is stock and staying that way, Pickup is TBA as of now.
    Crate is what I'd go with, then it's just a simple swap, not having to tear the whole thing down and put back together.
     
    DevynCS[OP] likes this.
  8. Sep 18, 2018 at 6:00 PM
    #8
    aroma

    aroma Well-Known Member

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    I had great luck with JDM.
     
    DevynCS[OP] and Wsteven like this.
  9. Sep 18, 2018 at 6:04 PM
    #9
    KenLyns

    KenLyns 8.75" Third Member

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    How much longer are you looking to keep your truck? Salvage yard engine is also an option if you can find one. Salvage yard engine is usually the route of choice for mechanics flipping cars.
     
  10. Sep 18, 2018 at 6:12 PM
    #10
    DevynCS

    DevynCS [OP] Member

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    Thank you for the second opinion. I really want to get it back to a place where I fell comfortable. Then I would like to head the direction of TDI. I have a buddy who rebuilds 350`s for a living.
     
  11. Sep 18, 2018 at 6:14 PM
    #11
    DevynCS

    DevynCS [OP] Member

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    I would like to keep as long as I have the land and space to keep it even though I'm not dailyin` yet
     
  12. Sep 18, 2018 at 6:16 PM
    #12
    DevynCS

    DevynCS [OP] Member

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    Thank you, everyone, I think I'm gonna look into getting a new long block. I'll make sure to keep a log of what I do and ill post it here :)
     
    Oldie2007 and Wsteven like this.
  13. Sep 18, 2018 at 6:39 PM
    #13
    68dave

    68dave Well-Known Member

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    Toytec Boss kit & OME leafs, 231mm tundra brakes SCS wheels...
    Back in 2013 i bought my 04 tacoma with a seized 3.4. I bought a salvage yard motor complete from throttle body to oil pan out of a wrecked 03 tacoma prerunner with 69k documented miles for $1400 shipped from Az to me here in Md. Of course i replaced the tb, wp ect... as preventive maintenance. Less than 2 weeks after i got the truck up & running i took it on a 3200 mile camping trip towing a small camper, didn't even burn or drip a drop of oil. I prefer low to moderate mileage Toyota engines because they are Toyota engines built to Toyota specs using Toyota internals. With rebuilds from companies like Jasper you don't know what replacement parts they use internally or what tolerances/specs they go by when assembling them.

    032.jpg
    178.jpg
    054.jpg
     
  14. Sep 18, 2018 at 8:05 PM
    #14
    2004TacomaSR5

    2004TacomaSR5 Nemesis Prime

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    Tacoma is stock and staying that way, Pickup is TBA as of now.
    You could probably find a low mileage engine in a scrapyard for fairly cheap also. Might be tough because Toyota parts go FAST when they get brought into a scrapyard! Especially Tacoma parts, I only know this from trying to find items for mine in the past.
     
    Hamer95USA, DevynCS[OP] and Dalandser like this.
  15. Sep 18, 2018 at 8:50 PM
    #15
    TRVLR500

    TRVLR500 Well-Known Member

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    Me personally? When and if the time comes I'll go crate with a long block if I can get one. I don't know how to work on these newer engines and don't trust rebuild shops or the vast majority of mechanics. Crate engines are really pricey but IMHO that's the only way to go if you can afford one. At least you know Toyota built it from the bottom up. I'd probably even take it to a Toyota dealership if there was a reputable one where I was living at the time to have it installed. That way anything that goes wrong is on them. It all comes down to what you can afford.

    Low mileage engines out of a wrecked vehicle are a good idea but if you have say, a 2004, like I do that might be hard to find.
     
  16. Sep 19, 2018 at 12:56 AM
    #16
    Dalandser

    Dalandser ¡Me Gustan Las Tacos-mas!

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    Since you aren't broken down I'd wait for a used low miles engine out of a running truck. Got this one for my truck w/ trans for less than half of the yotashop / LCE engines. Runs super smooth!

     
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  17. Sep 19, 2018 at 4:46 AM
    #17
    1997tacomav6

    1997tacomav6 V6 5sp,RegCab,TVS1320 Supercharger,Haltech, 800k

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    V6 5sp,RegCab,TVS1320 Supercharger, 56mm pulley, methanol injected Haltech ECU, AC Tvs1320 supercharger,(MUST DO) every 125,000- 150,000 needs rebuild Projector headlights HID 5 speed manual Amsoil for all drive train Smaller 56mm custom pulley, (MUST DO) 2004 DESNO fuel injectors, zero ping ping, 2004 side door mirrors Dick Cepek Rims, Michelin tires LTX, ATM Pathfinders Dynopro ATM ( that last 100,000 miles) Now running Dynopro ATM mud and snow tires KN cold air intake Cat back dual exhaust with ss exhaust tip, Raised exhaust tail pipe to 2" below body line Optima*dry cell battery,red top Alpine sirius radio, 200 watt amp, focal is165 split door pod speakers Focal door speakers Subwoffer behind seat Viper alarm, Electric Locks Dark tinted windows, bucket seats corbeau lg1 Tacoma Rubber floor mats TRD fender extenders, Bilstien shocks, King shocks JBA UCA trailer iv hitch, electric brake control, Drilled slotted brakes, High carbon steel (MUST DO) EBS green stuff 7000 series pads(MUST DO) TRD engine oil cap TRD stick shift, Marlin crawl shift kit. Rear sliding window 2002 4Runner functional hood scoop cut into Tacoma hood, 4Runner dual overhead map light Gentex Auto dim + Compass + Temp, garage,rearview mirror Snow Methonal kit stage 2 Custom 3 core aluminum radiator Linex bed liner Haltech stand alone ECU, Intake supercharger gauge. Stainless steel brake lines, Custom leather wrapped steering wheel, Haltech stand-alone ECU,
    Spend the extra money for a good low mileage used motor running in the truck if u can. This way you can hear it running and do a compression test if you want.
    Why spend hours taking a chance on an engine if it ended up being bad and u had to pull it again?
    I Blew a head gasket at 490,00,
    I found a used motor with 100k complete for 1500.00 running in this rolled truck.
    That was 3 years ago and 90,000 added, zero issues.

    2B8956C7-22A1-411B-A8F1-6A99402EC02F.jpg
    74A37126-D707-43E1-B5D5-C00A856172FC.jpg
    DF156AFE-20B2-4996-BB58-43E00089859B.jpg
     
    Last edited: Sep 19, 2018
  18. Sep 19, 2018 at 8:28 AM
    #18
    Glamisman

    Glamisman Well-Known Member

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    given your parameters I would JDM it. I have done a few and have had no issues but then these were the 3.4's.

    The only "unknowns" are how is the rest of the truck? Belts, hoses, fluids all add up and while the new one is out and accessable a good look see to see if there are any issues, oil leaks, freeze plugs etc.

    The 3.4's that I have put in didnt have an oil coolers but the trucks I was putting them in did so there is that additonal expense too in swapping the coolers, replacing the hoses, again and unexpected expense.
     
  19. Sep 19, 2018 at 9:28 AM
    #19
    jbrandt

    jbrandt Made you look

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  20. Sep 19, 2018 at 9:37 AM
    #20
    T4RFTMFW

    T4RFTMFW Well-Known Member

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    LSX crate is worth twice as much as the truck.
     
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