Engine oil leak, fix it or trade it in?

I’ve got a 2017 Tacoma TRD Sport 4wd. Blue book puts my truck at 17,700, other than the fact that it’s leaking oil. I’ve been to a few shops and I get quoted 2300 to 2500 to fix it. Some guys call it an input shaft seal leak, some call it the rear main. I’m of the opinion that it’s the rear main. I put dye in the oil and left it for a week, the dye is showing on the bottom of my truck. I’ve checked the PCV valve and hoses and the valve cover gaskets, however old, are still holding strong. I’ve been thinking recently about trading it in for a newer year because it’s got 140,000 miles and I’m sick of not having a power adjustable seat. So my question is,

will the dealer take off more from the trade in value than a shop would charge to fix it?

 

They likely wouldn’t catch a rear main seal leak unless they put it on a lift……unless it’s pouring out.

 

it’s a decent leak, every where I go it drips and leaves a couple spots. My main concern is they’re going to have me sign papers and say the truck is in good condition, which otherwise it is. I don’t really want to be super underhanded about it in case it comes back on me.

 

So you would rather go back into years of debt than pay $2,300 to fix an otherwise good running vehicle over a minor oil leak?

 

it’s been a little bit of a problem vehicle. Ive replaced the starter, the seals in the front differential 3 times, and the 4wd quit working because the actuator went out. I’m hoping to stave off on further repairs.

 

Wash and detail it, drive into a local Car Max and ask for a quote to buy it outright.
I’ve never heard of a form to sign saying it’s in good condition. If they do, walk away you’re not obligated to provide some type of “guarantee” on a trade.

 

Get the f rid of it.

 

that’s the plan, I don’t know if it’ll cost more to fix it than the dealer would take off the trade in though

 

Don’t worry about it. Move along. Next! Smile and the whole world smiles, too. Maybe.

 

Fair enough I guess. I'm a numbers guy so I always do the math with situations like this. Any vehicle is going to have shit break over time. So is a few grand a year in repairs better than a $500 truck payment for the next 72 months? Usually I bet! Good luck with whatever you decide.

 

I actually pay 450 a month on it right now, so another one for the same payment doesn’t look too bad to me if I don’t have to keep making repairs. That’s where I’m at at least. If the truck was paid off, id fix it in a heartbeat. But with a balance on it, I’d rather just get a new one.

 

A rear main seal is not a minor leak …expensive fix … with the milage u have its time for an upgrade. Who knows whats going to go next … the older the vehicle gets the more likely it will Develop other issues .

 

Yeah I’m planning on upgrading, I just don’t know how much off trade in the dealer will take. Is it going to be less money if I have a shop fix it first or do I just let the dealer take that off the top

 

I wouldn’t even mention it to them . If they don’t ask I wouldn’t worry about it . They have money to fix it .when u sell it make sure it says sold as is .

 

Alright, I’ll probably just end up doing that. Looking at some of the 22 TRD pros right now

 

I say both....
1st - Throw some High Mileage Oil in that bad boy and see if it doesn't help slow that leak down to a manageable amount.
2nd - If HM Oil doesn't help, get'er fixed but with a plan for #3
3rd - Start looking. But with the truck fixed, you can buy on your terms and not get pinched in a "have to" deal. Those always end up costing $5000 to $7000 more than they need to.

Example... I was looking for a 2013 Ford Fusion Hybrid one time. I had a VIN of the last one in Arizona that met my needs - it was in Tucson. I went to Sanderson Ford in Phoenix. They wanted to give me $2,000 on my trade and charge me $36,000 for the Fusion. I took my trade to Chapman AutoMall (also in Phoenix) and for the same Fusion / VIN from Tucson was able to get $10,000 for my trade (KBB'd at $13,000) and paid $28,000 for the Fusion. The same two vehicles at a different dealer represented a difference of $34,000 at one and $18,000 at the other - saving me $16,000. Obviously this is an example of extremes becasue one dealer was apparently into Piracy on the High Seas but you get the picture.

Dealing on your terms is ALWAYS better than getting into a pickle with a Have-To-Buy-A-Car-Right-F'ing-Now Deal. You'll save or break even on that repair and it extends the time you have to find the right truck in the right place for the right price.

 

You already get hosed on a trade in anyway, so take your lumps, go deeper in debt and get that power seat.

Keep in mind if the debt on the truck is rolled into the new loan you're likely picking up a higher interest rate.

 

The only thing a dealer has had me sign is a mileage disclosure and a statement that it hasn't been in a major accident. You are selling as is. The dealership is savvy enough to evaluate the condition themselves.

 

there are products/additives that might treat the rear main.......make it swell up some