Engine mount replacement

Anyone happen to have a write on how to replace the engine mounts? Been trying to find a video or write up but only been able to find transmissions mount replacement.

 

You might start here.
And if you have any specific questions, ask the guys there.
https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads...-mounts-for-sale.406631/page-15#post-26153627

 

I don't think anyone is gonna recommend you replace them

most people will say upgrade to Solid Offroad

 

Why in hell would anybody want solid engine mounts on a daily driver. Maybe for a dedicated off-road vehicle. And that is a soft maybe.

I've never had to replace a motor mount or transmission mount unless it was ripped apart from driving like an @ss like I did quite often in my 1971 Duster 340 Wedge.

 

The name of the company is "solid offroad", the engine mounts themselves are not solid but are a poly bushing type of mount similar to folks who upgrade UCA, LCA, cab mount bushings to poly. I personally would not recommend to a daily driver either. I bought a set and attempted to replace but realized there's too much crap in the way to get them out, especially on the drivers side. The mounts are designed to be removed from the engine with the engine removed from the vehicle. It's possible to replace in situ, but tight quarters I also snapped a bolt because the steel bolt corroded in the aluminum block.

 

I have a full set of solid off road mounts in my 6-speed Tacoma that I daily , it makes the shifting a lot smoother in stop and go traffic.

With the oe mounts I could feel the engine jerk and getting in and out of first gear was always a pain in the ass..

I don’t really have any complaints on vibes, etc..

 

Oh. Better, but I don't see where the OEMs are an issue. Then again I'm not a hard core off roader as many are.

Thanks for the explanation.

 

I don't understand this at all. The transmission is still hard mounted the same to the engine. Why would the engine and transmission mount effect shifting?

 

i think it’s more of a mental thing, doubt there would be any improvement in shifting.

 

If it is a manual, having all of the poly mounts will make for easier/crisper shifting, when under load or heavy load. They reduce the torsional stress/flex between the engine and transmission.

Some aftermarket companies have gone so far as to increase the rigidity of the transmission case to reduce the flex that is induced. Coupled with poly mounts.

 

Possibly remove driver side header and or starter. Have a jack with wood or hockey puck to jack up the engine a little. More for support, to remove the old. Swap in new. Repeat for the passenger side. Possibly without removing that header.

 

Have you actually seen this done Tor? When I last gave this a good solid look, I determined the ac compressor was the biggest obstacle.. Told myself, if that thing ever goes out entirely, this job’s a go!

Oddly enough, if ever my battery is disconnected for a while, it takes some driving before cold air starts pumping.. think the clutch on that compressor is cranky, but once it starts blowing cold air it‘s as good as when I drove her off the lot in 07.

 

I changed the mounts without removing anything this year. Was a struggle of a job but here are my details and tips on what I did. I did use a trans jack on the trans as well as the standard jack with a good chunk of wood to distribute the load. I have heard of a couple people cracking their oil pan using the jack there so there is a bit of a risk.

https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads...stick-shift-taco.681826/page-15#post-27467244

https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads...stick-shift-taco.681826/page-15#post-27467392