Engine immobilizer removal

Nah I usually do it with customers cars that have worn out keys and I need a dummy key to turn the igntion just to get it into the shop.

But I did it on my last honda accord that I had.



So you just pop off the cover, zip tie a key until the security light stops flashing, then zip tie the antenna somewhere it doesn't interfere, then you can use plain home depot keys, you can make 50 if you want.

But your car becomes waaaaaaaaaay easier to steal.

 

The car that failed me like that was a GM as well. I'm glad these Tacomas don't seem to have this problem.

 

Well it looks like I’m one of the fortunate few. My immobilizer system is now taking a crap and my truck will start and immediately die. It’s done this to me three times now, stranding me 5 hours from home on two occasions. I only found out it was the immobilizer after I had my mechanic run the scan tool to see the history of codes and there had been about 20 regarding the engine immobilizer. Which is about the amount of times it would start and immediately die. So far it hasn’t stranded me for good because at some point it fires up and runs fine for a couple of weeks. The mechanic said he did some research and thinks I just need to get a new chipped key, of which I have a blank un-programmed key that I’ve never got around to getting set up because only Toyota can program them. I’ve asked a lot of places. Anyhow, I fear that it’s not the key that’s taking a crap, but the ignition itself.

When you leave the key in the ignition with the door ajar, the car beeps to remind you. But mine has stopped doing that on occasion. Usually you can just slightly move the key and it will start beeping again. Hopefully I’m not the only one who’s been through this.

Anybody else experienced this?

 

The vehicle dying part no. The key not beeping in the ignition yes. My key was worn out that bad. Have you looked into the key or the coil ring on the ignition cylinder? That would be a good place to check.

 

Ok thanks for the advice. Right now it’s in the shop for an alignment but I’ll check it out. At least I will once I familiarize myself with the operation of an ignition and the part the coils play in that. Thanks again.

I’ll keep this thread updated for anyone who runs into this issue. I’m hoping it’s a simple fix. The mechanics research says that a new key can usually fix it.

 

Thanks for this, our group is thinking about building a baja rig, this could be useful since we would only run it for races. who needs keys when you’re racin’?

 

My remote start bypass module in my 2010 failed recently. I could start it with the key left in the ignition and using the remote start fob. Whole story and good info in this thread at the12volt.com forum: https://www.the12volt.com/installbay/forum_posts.asp?tid=144981&get=last#733376

Maybe the instructions linked in the other forum can help you understand what wires under the dash are needed to permanently bypass the system. Probably a lot easier to relocate the antenna and zip tie a good key to it, like mentioned above.

 

Beating a dead horse maybe, but I bought an 09 last winter with the same issue. Start the truck every now and then, runs for about 5-10 seconds and dies. I have 3 keys and it happens now matter which key I’m using. I figured out that once it stalls, put the truck in park, remove the key for 10 seconds or more and it’s fine. I seldom take the keys out of my ignition, and it has never happened to me when I initially insert the key to start the truck. The problem only seems to happen intermittently when the keys are left in the ignition. I’ve been told it’s the immobilizer and there’s only a couple years that seem to have this issue.

So removing the key for a few seconds after it stalls works for me, so It might help somebody else from being stranded. I would still like to remedy this issue all together so I don’t look like a clown when I drive the truck 6 feet and it shuts down on me.

Has anyone found a solution for this yet?

 

I know a remote start system will feed the ECU the code it needs so you can start it without a key anywhere near the truck. If that actually fixes the immobilizer issue I have no idea.

 

How close does the RCFI chip in the key need to be to the coil in the ignition ring for the signal to be sent to the transponder ECU? Could you just Velcro the chipped key under the dash somewhere or is that too far away?

Considering a 4.7L 4Runner Motor in my truck and the vvti versions (which I want) use an immobilizer. That’s the only part of the equation I haven’t figured out.

Perhaps the cleanest way would be using all the 4Runner parts down to the driver door lock cylinder in my truck but man, what a bitch swapping and repinning all of that. Ideal would be if the Tacoma immobilizer ECU could be reflashed and programmed to “shake hands” with the 4Runner engine ECU I would be using. Dealer would probably say no, fuck it up or make me poor in the process. Maybe Techstream but that is totally Greek to me.
Given that many parts are the same between 03-09 runners and 2nd gen Tacos I wouldn’t be surprised if the immobilizer was the same part number

 

Needs to be within about 1/2 inch of the coil.

If you were planning to do a motor swap, you would more than likely be using the ECU from the 4R. You’d have to swap the ign cylinder if the same or program the Tacoma keys to the 4R ECU. Assuming they are close in model year and share the same encryption data.

 

Yes, 4Runner ECU for the engine but immobilizer ECU is separate, it’s a bitch to get to. Whole dash has to come out

 

Bingo! Someone else has my problem. Ocassionly, when I sit in the truck with the key in (not on) for something like 20 minutes or more. Same solution, take key out then reinsert. Left me stranded and towed since the 1st time I kept the key in and kept trying to start it. I keep a spare key if it's the key vs. immobilizer for now.

 

Late to the party, but I just had this issue. Got stuck 400 miles from home and the truck stop mechanic took my key out. I always leave it in the ignition and use a key fob to unlock. After I had the brake work done I was not able to start it again. I finally got it started after two days and did not turn it off until I got back north. Now it won’t start again…

 

Yes metal non chipped hide a key that can get wet and gain access, chipped key stashed somewhere only you know about

 

So, sell that one and buy a Toyota fleet vehicle - I had a 2015 with a plain key and no chip.

 

My 2000 Prerunner came new with alarm, auto unlock doors and key fob, etc, no remote start though, but once after it was 15 years old, sat for a year, and the battery died, I put in a new battery, and the key fobs no longer worked at all. I got the reprogram instructions, but it wouldn't work, so I just removed the box under the dash that was the security system. It had plastic "D" connector to it with about 20 wires, I just unplugged it, and removed it from the truck, and used the regular key from then on. Really easy, no problems, just no remote unlock, which I really don't like anyway. Electric door locks still work, engine starts fine, and the horn no longer honks by itself when the alarm doesn't like something. To deter theft. I just got a little LED that takes two AA batteries, and double stuck it on the dash where the alarm flashing LED is. Thieves usually look for a flashing LED in the car, and if they see one, they go one to the next one. Batteries last about two years. A lot cheaper than trying to replace or otherwise put the alarm back to working.