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Engine dying at stop

Discussion in '1st Gen. Tacomas (1995-2004)' started by The guapo taco, Nov 1, 2021.

  1. Nov 1, 2021 at 10:41 AM
    #1
    The guapo taco

    The guapo taco [OP] Member

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    This morning I was driving and everything was going good until I came to a stop sign and the truck just stops running. I look down immediately and I’m like okay well the clutch was to the floor so it wasn’t me, I started it up again took off and it was driving fine and then I came to a stop sign again and the rpm’s drop darastically and it almost dies again, I was thinking it was the clutch and so I put in neautral and it was still fighting to stay alive and it ended up staying running but I don’t think it should be having trouble everytime I stop. It starts up fine, idols fine in the driveway or in a parking lot. I have the 3rz engine if that helps at all, just wondering on what some possible problems could be as I would like to jump on the problem as soon as possible.
     
  2. Nov 1, 2021 at 10:44 AM
    #2
    eon_blue

    eon_blue Okayest Member

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    I had this issue with my previous Tacoma, would die at stop signs/stop lights. Turned out to be a bad MAF sensor. Might try cleaning yours first to see, use MAF cleaner specifically (not carb cleaner or electronics cleaner).

    Any check engine light?
     
    JudoJohn likes this.
  3. Nov 1, 2021 at 10:46 AM
    #3
    USMILRET

    USMILRET Tacoma Owner

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    If would be good if you can get th fuel trim readouts and post them here. The basics are clean the MAF, check spark plugs and wires check for vacuum leaks and clean the throttle body.
     
  4. Nov 1, 2021 at 10:48 AM
    #4
    The guapo taco

    The guapo taco [OP] Member

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    I did not see a check engine light but I’ll check again later just in case I somehow missed it.
     
  5. Nov 1, 2021 at 11:00 AM
    #5
    Bivouac

    Bivouac Well-Known Member

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    Remains to be seen I bought the tires and wheels the rest came along
    I had the same type issue it would only happen after 20 or 30 miles or more on the interstate at 55mph.

    Get off the ramp come to a stop it would stall I have no idea just what I might have done it just went away

    Never caused a code to trip the light came on because the engine stalled.

    In normal traffic in town and two lane roads never a problem
     
  6. Nov 1, 2021 at 11:06 AM
    #6
    eon_blue

    eon_blue Okayest Member

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    If you have scanner device you can hook up to be sure, that would be ideal. Sometimes a pending code might be there but hasn't tripped the CEL yet. And you can use a good OBDII scanner to look at your fuel trims and other pertinent info to help diagnose
     
  7. Nov 1, 2021 at 12:50 PM
    #7
    Toyoda213

    Toyoda213 Well-Known Member

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    were you doing any work/maintanence to it and disconnected any wiring or hoses before it started doing this? Only reason i ask is because something similar to this happened to me once. I had removed the intake and i forgot to bolt up the grounds when i put everything back together. Took it for a drive, got on the freeway and when i came to a stop at the freeway exit car turned off. I was able to turn it back on and drive and sure enough when i got to the red light again it shut off. Pulled over and inspected under the hood and i had forgot to bolt up the grounds. Got them back on and fixed the issue. Good luck
     
  8. Nov 1, 2021 at 1:10 PM
    #8
    The guapo taco

    The guapo taco [OP] Member

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    No I have not
     
  9. Nov 1, 2021 at 2:41 PM
    #9
    pulldo

    pulldo Well-Known Member

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    My guess would be on a "clean" throttle body and a clean MAF. Wouldn't hurt to clean the engine and body grounds also.
     
  10. Nov 1, 2021 at 6:12 PM
    #10
    jbrandt

    jbrandt Made you look

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    Would help to know a little more about the history. Mileage, recent maintenance, maintenance history, how long you've had the truck, etc...

    Does it idle normally? or does this only happen after driving and coming to a stop? As others said, cleaning the MAF is a good place to start, but that's one of any number of possibilities. I would say that when/if you start replacing engine management sensors etc, don't cheap out. Get OEM/Denso parts if at all possible. Those cheap Amazon sensors are just that, cheap.

    Generally speaking, if you don't know the maintenance history, it's best to assume it wasn't done, and start there. Look up the factory recommended maintenance schedule for your mileage and do all that stuff.
     
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  11. Nov 1, 2021 at 11:05 PM
    #11
    Glamisman

    Glamisman Well-Known Member

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    pump the brakes a few times next time it is ideling OK and see if she stops. If your brake vacuum booster is on the way out this is one of the symptoms.
     
  12. Nov 2, 2021 at 1:08 PM
    #12
    AmherstAndy

    AmherstAndy Well-Known Member

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    If it runs better with MAF sensor unplugged, then MAF sensor likely needs cleaning or replacement. Faulty MAF reading should trigger a CEL within 1 or 2 drives.
     
  13. Nov 2, 2021 at 3:51 PM
    #13
    SCSPerformance

    SCSPerformance Stealth Custom Series™ Vendor

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    Thoroughly clean out the idle air controller. It's probably gunked up.
     
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  14. Nov 2, 2021 at 4:16 PM
    #14
    djm228

    djm228 Professional Dumbass

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    I had the same exact issue with no code and it turned out to be the IAC valve. I just sprayed some throttle body cleaner into the throttle body while holding it upside down, since the IAC valve is pretty hard to remove (stupid JIS screws).
     
    AmherstAndy likes this.
  15. Nov 3, 2021 at 8:00 AM
    #15
    bretts

    bretts Well-Known Member

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    need to get you a JIS screw driver, Japanese tools are worth the extra $$ just like a Toyota is. :D

    https://www.amazon.com/Vessel-Megad...TG8OM6,B07ZG4VPZT,B004PGO1T6&srpt=SCREWDRIVER
     
    jbrandt likes this.

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