Engine block paint

While I have my cab lifted, headers, and front suspension removed, and other garbage out of the way, I'm getting a notion to paint the ugly rusty engine block on my 3RZ motor. Its got a thick coat of rust all way around.

I've read the articles about how pros do a good job of painting it when disassembled and out of the engine bay. That's not happening here. And it won't be spray painted.

I'll reach my arm through the wheel wells and brush something on there. I read that rust converters aren't formulated for high heat, so that's not happening. I'm considering this High Heat Rustoleum Black brush on paint rated to 1200 degrees. https://www.rustoleum.com/product-catalog/consumer-brands/specialty/high-heat-brush-on?ls=7778502&lc=Bar-B-Que Black (I'm a big fan of rustoleum)


I know this is a lipstick on a pig type situation and there's no real cost/effort benefit other than my own eye appeal when opening the hood.

If anyone has any other suggestions, known issues, or reasons this is a stupid idea, let me know. I'm all ears. When I get around to it, I'll post pics of the results, pending I actually follow through.

 

https://www.summitracing.com/search?SortBy=BestKeywordMatch&SortOrder=Ascending&keyword=VHT engine

USed that stuff on the healey, its holding up 15 years later.

 

I literally just googled "what's a healey"

 

Oh I just noticed the bit about not spray painting. Hmm. That'll be tough, I think you're down to the grill paint then.

 

Its old. And fast.

 

That's what I figured. I'm hoping 1200 degree rating is sufficient? The page does say it can be used on engine blocks so there's that.

 

Yeah that temp ought to be fine.

 

You have Coroseal
Use it
It will take the block temps

 

That was my initial idea. But I couldn't find any data to confirm that. I don't want to doubt, but I doubt.

 

Attached the spec sheet. Its effective up to 350 F so i sure hope your block isnt getting that hot

 

I tried it on exhaust manifold
It smoked some at high temp for a few then left a black Magnetite finish which hasn't rusted even though the tractor engine is exposed to weather 24/7

 

Thanks for that. Maybe I'll give it more consideration then. I have no idea how hot the engine block is supposed to be. But no it's not overheating.

 

Yeah, the latex burns off and leaves nice flat black Magnetite

 

Your testimonial helps. As long as it smokes off in a few minutes and doesn't ignite, I'd feel good about it.

 

I like your thought process here @Jakuku Pahwheenis I also have had good success with Rust-O-Leum oil based brush/roll on paint, but I highly suggest you use a rust converter after scraping and brushing off any rust you can reach.

I had a really nice condition Cummins engine, but apparently they didn't paint the block from the factory. I used Duplicolor engine enamel over it after cleaning (had great success in the past), but it rusted through in a hideous way I didn't expect, would of been better if I did nothing that time. This is why I would use rust converter in a similar situation next time.

 

Unlike oil based enamel paints there are no VOCs in Coroseal which would catch fire.

 

That's three for corroseal. Alright I'm convinced. I used it on my frame so far, clean results. I also slathered it one the rear propeller shaft, with no prep and it turned out looking like a seasoned cast iron skillet. I don't mind the look. I expect all I'll be able to do on the engine block is knock off any loose rust and it should turn out similar.

 

That is good to know.

 

Isn't the point of VOCs to evaporate until cured though?

 

Have a metal front door and the paint peels every year from the afternoon sun... you could fry an egg on it. I got the peeled spots down to bare metal and used this high heat paint as a base coat... then painted over it with the house paint. Been on for 3 years now and holding up great!