Eibach pro truck 2.0 out-of-the box lift height?

I just installed the Eibach pro truck 2.0 kit and looked everywhere to find info on what lift comes pre-assembled from the factory (15 threads from bottom). I can’t find that info anywhere but I think I read somewhere that it is supposed to be 1.5 inches to get rid of the rake, but don’t know for sure.

I have before and after measurements but took them from the floor not the wheel center and I installed bigger tires to boot. So I buggered that out. Anyway, if someone has the 411 on what the factory sends out on these Eibach pro truck 2.0 adjustable coil overs that would be cool.



The truck looks awesome with the trd wheels and MT tires. Not best photo yet… it’s a screen grab from a video. The chrome tubes got to go…

 

Contacted Eibach and they told me the out of the box set up is for 1.5 inch lift.

 

Hi, what did you use for lift in the rear?

 

Thanks for the info. I’ll be calling them soon to discuss height + application of the 2.0 on a regular cab. I think the price is pretty good for the 2.0 package as it seems “in the middle” between a bilstein set-up on one side and a fox/elka set-up on the other side.

 

And how do you like the ride??

 

I used the Eibach 1” block kit. I got my stuff during Black Friday last year… had to wait for warmer weather.

Easy install if you have a power wrench to dislodge 8 years worth of crude.

 

did the same lift last year and i love it. highway speeds rides so much smoother.

 

Bought the truck used and the original suspension was in and I just did not have enough seat time to compare.

I think is is smoother around the bumps but could also be the new tires with bigger sidewall.

Overall, no complaints. The ride is better and the truck looks like a million bucks. Got to get rid of the chrome side step but don’t know yet what to use instead or go step less.

I had a hell of a time installing the coil overs with all the rust. Both sway bar links had to be cut off as 3 of the 4 nuts would not come out. The driver side 3 top nuts on coil over were a bitch but came off. The passenger side fought hard and one stud broke and the rear nut was rusted beyond belief. I had to disassemble the coil over in place and then use a sawz all to remove the top hat of the coil mount and then used dremel cut off wheels to cut the edges of the nut off to liberate it from the stud. Not a bad job just time consuming. Having a 4 inch grinder with cut off wheels, a sawz all, and dremel tool may be necessary. I also had to replace the driver side ball joint as the rubber boot was split open.

not a terrible job to do on your driveway, just be prepared to replace some parts that don’t want to come off.

 

Thanks, I’m considering the same setup.

 

this is what i got quoted for all the rusted out pieces and replacing the lower control arms. so for folks looking to get this done