e3 Spark Plugs/Reviews

A naturally aspirated engine can be fuel injected, Naturally Aspirated refers to not having forced induction like a turbo or super-charger. Nothing to do with the injection system being mechanical, ie carburetor, or fuel injected!

 

The majority of my Tacoma is made up of American parts, made in America, and the truck was also assembled here in America. The Motor and maybe the transmission is about the only thing off of the truck that was made in Japan.

The only thing that is American about a Chevy for the most part, is It's name along with other American car companies.

Any other questions?

 

Yeah. Who gets to put the profit in their books? Where are they from?

 

Naturally-aspirated engines generally gives less power than either turbo or supercharged engines of the same engine displacement and development level but tend to be cheaper to produce. In drag racing, naturally-aspirated vehicles are vehicles that do not operate with a blower, a turbo, nor use nitrous oxide.

 

Toyota Motor of North America, Inc. That's who.

 

Whoops sorry sonjay, I think I get what you are talking about now. I was always under the impression that it had to do with running a carb. only.

 

Toyota NA is a subsidiary, created to allow the company to operate in the US.

Parent company is is headquartered in Toyota City, Aichi and in Tokyo

(Those are all in Japan)


No need to be so brash about it. Toyota is not an American company, but they do have American subsidiaries which is what you are talking about.

 

Why are you trying to argue with me lol?

Isn't the majority of workers that work for Toyota Motor of North America, Inc., aren't they American Workers?
Would you rather me buy a Chevy, which is most likely built in Mexico or something, and then post my little banner in a Chevy Forum? Is that more accurate for you?

When I decided to post my signature with this banner, it had to do with other products and services and not about cars.
I really can't post my banner in any other car forums because all cars are pretty much made up of parts from all over the world anyways, so it really doesn't really matter now does it?.

If you have such a problem with it then don't look at it. lol Who the hell cares about a little banner. Can't we talk about something else, besides a little banner? Maybe we can post another pointless band thread lol

 

It was an NA carburated LS1 engine.

 

After doing more research on this, I will NOT be trying the E3's. I'm sticking with the Denso's. Seems like it's a hit and miss with the E3's depending on what you drive. It was more developed for the smaller engines, ie. lawnmowers, motorcycles, etc.

 

No worries man! Just giving you a heads up

 

That 70% quote for the TACOMA would be for 4 cylinder model which sources the tranny and motor from Japan. The numbers would slide more with the V6 model which is USA made.

Those percentages for other makers can change also depending on how it is option out and what drive combos are used.

 

I bought my '06 access 4x4 brand new. I remember the salesman saying "it's great that you do all your own maintenance, but you won't have to touch this engine for 105,000 miles. It's a Toyota". That being said, I put new plugs in every 30,000 as rec by Toyota. I opted for Indium since there wasn't enough user feedback on the Pulstar plugs at the time. I'll have 60K in the fall of 2010. Maybe more forum feedback on the Pulstar will influence my choice next plug change.

As far as the multiple ground electrodes go, if memory serves, Jacobs was selling copper shims of different thicknesses to index the plug's ground electrode gap with respect to the intake valve in the early 80's long before SplitFire. The idea was having the gap open to the intake charge VS. the back side of the ground electrode shadowing the fresh charge. When the Hot Rod article came out about SplitFire, I bought new conventional plugs, bought a snap saw from the hobbie shop, and made my own SplitFires. A dyno may have shown a difference, but I didn't feel any more HP or torque from that motor.

 

Just want to let you guys know, so you can get all the information down accurately, I happen to also own a 2004 GTO with an LS1 under the hood. All LS-series motors are fuel injected, which does make a difference in horsepower gains vs carburated motors simply because generally speaking fuel injection brings higher output and (also generally speaking) higher output brings greater sensitivity to power gains (such as, a CAI install on a fuel injected engine with produce better power gains vs on a carburated motor). Spark plugs do make a difference though, but for sure, multiple electrode spark plugs are a bad idea. They may give power gains, but anyone who knows what Google is can look up others experiences with them and see how they consistently have physical failure due to over heating. I know for sure NGK makes some awesome plugs, I switched from AC Delco Iridium to NGK TR-55 IX plugs and saw 10 more hp on the dyno (new to new comparison). With the 4.0 V6 though, I doubt those kind of gains will be achieved on a new to new spark plug comparison. Just keep an eye on your plugs, stay away from the iridium plugs (they say they last longer, and they might, but it's at a dramatic payment of performance) and keep up on over all vehicle maintanence. If you have a pavement pounder and want to add some power and a little extra mileage swap the mechanical fan for an electric, buy a CAI, etc. Oh, and on those Pulstar plugs, they say they have more spark, but they only way you are going to get more spark (given they MAY have reduced resistance, but not nearly THAT much) is by adding more electricity to the mix. So unless you go out and buy a much higher energy ignition system in it's entirety, you won't get the "humongernormous" spark people try saying you will.

 

I think your comments are well placed and good advice. This Yota 4.0 L V6 has FI, independent coils, and I've installed a CAI. Better to stay with plugs that consistently work like NGK or Denso then try a plug with sketchy history.

 

Family member recently asked me what the best spark plugs were because he knows I am into trucks. Came here and got my answer. So far, the answer to every maintenance inquiry has been: go with OEM. Except for transmission fluid, (Don't use WS) but that is a different story.

Thanks for those who contributed to this thread and a bump for anyone curious... Because E3 is still making MPG and performance claims.