e-brake release sensor?

my e-brake lever, when released, has to be jiggled a bit towards the motor in order for the e-brake cluster light to turn off. what could cause this and how do i fix it? thanks

 

Make sure the sensor button or e-brake lever pin are looking normal and not bent or coming loose. Also check the brake cable and make sure it isn't fraying.

 

Mine is doing the exact same thing; you can gently touch the brake lever with one finger and the light will go out. It just seems like there isn't enough "return pressure" from the spring assembly to keep the brake handle fully seated in the disengaged position. I cleaned and lubricated the spring assembly under the truck but it didn't have an effect.

I have noticed that I have to pull the handle out as far as it will go in order to hold the truck on a hill, so my next step is to check the condition of the rear brakes and then adjust and/or replace accordingly. I will report back with my results and hopefully it will help you and others in fixing the issue.

 

I just say it's in the character of my pickup. I've had a few of the cables at the T handle frey on me. About 3 of them. I lost the little plastic keeper for the end of the cable. My guess is it was there to help it not frey and guide it as you push it back down. There was also a spring that was under the return arm under the cab that I think helped pull the cable back down. I am not sure if this is OEM or not but it helped (when it was there). Might of been something somebody put on it at one time.

 

If I recall correctly (on the 96 at least), there is a lever under the truck that connects the front cable to the rear cables. You can adjust the cable here to essentially make it shorter. It wasn't anything complicated. A locknut and adjusting nut or something like that. Should be easy to figure out once you see it.

This may not be related to the OP's problem with the light.

 

that looks like an adjusting nut, cool. i'll check that too.

 

this^

especially in PA. my rear bell cranks were so corroded that there was no movement to "pull" the handle back in to trigger the sensor. it is rare that the sensor will go bad so check the tension on the cables and also check your rear setup to make sure it has full range of movement (have someone pull the e-brake while you watch both sides).

I replaced with a set from Dorman about a year ago and works like a champ. if it lasts another 14 years I'll be good

 

some pics of mine

 

^ ok so that is part of the rear e-brake that runs along the rear end, right?

 

Someone's gotta say it: check the brake fluid level in the reservoir first.

 

Mine's good.

 

the bell crank is the part that is bolted to the rear drum plate and acts as the pivot. pull cable, it pivots, and pulls the shoe outwards onto the drum surface. the cable itself runs along the axle housing connecting to the other side's bell crank. (96-02 was above the axle, 03-04 were below the axle). there is another cable that runs from the rear axle to the mid-point under driver's seat. and then the cable from that pivot arm to the T handle in the cab.

 

here's the finished version

 

^ this too

weird that they use the same light for both but never hurts to check

 

Thanks for the detailed info and pictures, Frizzman! I will report back to this thread when I get under my Taco and do some digging.

 

us yinzers gotta help each other out

 

us yinzers gotta help each other out[/QUOTE]

Where do we get the bell crank kit and also do the mounting bolts come with, or do we have to buy them separately?- if so where and what size?
(I hear they all shear off when doing this fix)

Both my 03 Tacoma and my 02 T4R need these. Thanks

 

I got mine from Amazon:

$40 Dorman 924-752 Parking Brake Bell Crank Compatible with Select Toyota Models

https://www.amazon.com/Dorman-924-752-Parking-Brake-Crank/dp/B00C0UAABW

and everything was there needed to replace the entire setup. except the actual cables but they don't go bad.

 

When my Truck does this it is because I forgot to lube the spring on the frame that pulls the cable towards the dash.

It puts just enough tension on the cable to keep the switch open

In front of the fuel tank by the intermediate lever .

Being every thing else is in working Condition