Dumb Question: Powering Portable Fridge

I did a search but a few of the ones that say they do this - just simply say they do it- no explanation no evidence. (and they are much much older posts)

I am wondering why I could not, power a fridge like a ARB or Dometic,(in the bed of my truck) via the inverter while Im driving- and simply switch to a larger power pack (GoalZero, Jackery etc) when stationary.

Would the power draw be unsustainable over long periods of time, and is that why it seems that most people hardwire in a 12v DC rig to accommodate such?

I kinda sorta feel I am falling short to pose my question properly - powering a portable fridge via the on board inverter good or bad idea?

 

The 12v fridges are more efficient running off of 12v than off the inverter. Basically you're taking 12v from battery, converting it to 115v, converting the 115v back to 12v for the compressor to run. That's why so many people (myself included) run a power wire from the battery to the bed and make some 12v plugs using Blue Sea Systems stuff. That said, there's absolutely no reason you can't do what you're planning. I'm doing literally the same thing cept I'm using 12v to power the fridge while driving and then when stopped/camping I switch it to my Jackery 500 and solar. It shouldn't hurt your truck or battery at all.

 

Ahh ok I understand now - so its more of an efficiency thing than a capability - right on - I appreciate you breaking out the crayons to explain this.

 

I will be running a dedicated 12v line to the bed, but for now I've found it best to power the fridge with my Jackery and keep the Jackery plugged into the bed inverter. For some reason, prob me being dumb, the power doesn't always stay on while I'm driving. Not sure if It goes off randomly while driving a long distance or if I simply forget to turn it back on when I stop for gas/food/etc...prob the latter. Anyway, having my Jackery power it ensures it never goes off and my beer stays nice and cold, and the Jackery stays charged via the plug in the bed.

EDIT: (09/2022) since this post I found out that the 400W/100W power turns off when you push in the clutch and start driving, so I've since done the 400W Anytime mod and now it stays on all the time and no problems (except for remembering to punch the button when I start driving the next day!)

 

I do the same thing. I use the eco flow delta all day while it’s also generating from the solar. I know it’s an inconvenience to remember to hit that button again when you’re gassing up and have to turn off the truck.

 

Always down to help. Good luck and enjoy!

 

I just finished installing my fridge and taking it camping for the first time. I ran a dedicated 12v outlet for a few reasons: not only is it more efficient to run the fridge off of 12v, but once the truck is off, s is your inverter. Also, most fridges will warn against using a modified sine wave inverter to power them, which is most likely what the factory inverter in the tacoma is. 10 minutes with an oscilloscope would provide an answer. with the factory battery in the truck I made sure to run the truck here and there or take it for a drive to keep from being stranded. I initially planned to upgrade the battery but after learning of the support structure cracking issues I will stay with a 24f when the time comes. I plan to get a power pack and charge it off of the 12v outlet in the bed and run the fridge at night with it. the factory inverter is neat but I have yet to find a good use for it.

 

If you run them off the bed plug, it only runs at 100W without the 400W always mod. Most of the fridges don't need 100W, but the compressor turning on initially will draw over 100W and pop it. That's what I've read anyway researching the best way to run one as well.

 

I run a second battery in back and charge it using a Blueseas switching relay off the 12v main- it charges up while driving and then runs the cooler when parked. You can add solar to the auxiliary battery directly with a smart charger that way as well.
https://www.bluesea.com/products/7611/BatteryLink_Automatic_Charging_Relay_-_12V_24V_DC_120A

 

Can you post pic of your 2nd batt install pls? I have a Redarc1225D sitting in a box for over a year now since I don't know where/how to mount my 2nd battery, since the Sport model does not have that space on the passenger side near the firewall available...dumb engineers...

 

I made this that I use in the bed for the refrigerator, it is charged from the auxiliary battery in the engine compartment and from solar through the blue smart charger on it. My OR has the space in the engine compartment for the 2nd auxiliary battery that is charged via the relay on the main battery.

https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads...table-power-battery-for-less-than-100.631427/

 

Ugh. Well, I need to figure out where I'm mounting the 2nd battery itself. Thinking I might be able to mount the spare tire on back and put the 2nd battery under there to leave bed for hauling...too much weight on the front left fender can tear the radiator mount when 4-wheeling, I've read. Also noticed the 10 amp max step-up booster in your build, isn't that a bit small for running all house accessories through it?

 

I just use the booster for charging a drone and running the fridge when on battery only, but not at the same time.

 

You can big brain it like me and run 12V power to the bed for your fridge then decide to keep your fridge in your cab..

 

I am not sure what explanation you need. How does one go about "proving" it? I have been doing this for three years now.

I run my fridge off the included outlet for months at a time on the road with the 400w anytime mod. At campsites I then hook up to a either solar or a Goal Zero that has been charging off the same outlet while driving. You can choose whatever equivalent you want. This is so drop dead simple than doing all that other stuff. Why bother? So you can say your setup is X percent more efficient? You can win that pissing contest.

People want confirmation for whatever pre-selected bias is their head. You have had several confirm that "efficient" way. Go with it.

 

Here’s my setup. Fairly simple and I’ve got no issue running my fridge basically indefinitely.

x2power 27f agm main battery
12v direct wire outlet for fridge
Dometic CFX
cascadia 4x4 85w hood solar panel

I also keep a noco jump pack in the truck.. just in case but I’ve never needed to use it. Since I put in the agm, I’ve never even hit the low voltage cut off as I’m typically on the move every day or so

since adding the solar panel, I would need to stay stationary for probably 3+ days with no sun to run down the battery.

every seems to overly complicate these setups. You don’t need a 2nd battery and don’t use AC power.

 

How long did you get before adding solar? What size fridge is it? I have a similar setup but no solar atm. Havent tested my drain time yet..

 

I’ve used a dometic cfx35 and arb elements 63

I just recently added the solar. Went 3ish years without it

 

I did the same thing. Once I got the goose gear seat delete I moved the fridge into the cab and moved the power from the bed

 

I have basically the same setup, X2 24F AGM, CFX40, GB40, Rich Solar 100w panel on my Front Runner shell rack.
At home, my parking space is under a large tree. As you can see, it blocks any direct sun, except for a few late afternoon hours (this pic was shot at 4:45pm). If I don't drive for a couple of days, the MT-50 remote battery meter shows it needs to get charged. Overall, it has been reliable. I keep the fridge filled with water jugs to minimize the amount of time the compressor has to run.

I ran a 10 ga wire from the battery to 2 Blue Seas fuse boxes; one in the cab and the other in the truck bed. From the cab fuse box, I ran a circuit to the center console cig lighter. This gives me constant power for the fridge and for charging phones. It works as advertised, but it's a hassle connecting the cig plug into the console, due to the Salex organizer. Plus the fridge takes away my unswitched USB circuits.

Since I run Anderson connectors throughout the truck, (and on most of my accessories; including the fridge), I extended the 12v power from the console to the back seat area. I can now power the fridge from the external box I added. In addition to the power socket, it has a switched USB outlet w/voltmeter so I can monitor the voltage level.

The fridge will stay in the bed, once I finish building my double slide for the fridge and stove. I already built and installed a hub with 4 Anderson connectors to power the fridge and any accessories in the bed, plus any accessories in the GFC SuperLite RTT that is on order.