Dual battery help!!!!

So I am looking for help. I will be living out of my 2021 Tacoma in a few months via a Roof top tent. I will have a Step power RV45s fridge that will have to run 24/7 along with other handheld appliance charging (phone, laptop etc.) I am trying to do a battery in my cab that is charged by a solar panel mounted on top of my roof top tent or roof rack not a second battery in my engine bay. I am new to all of this and need someone to just tell me all the things I will need to make this system work 24/7. I know I need a battery but what kind and solar panels, but how many and how many wats. Any help would be much appreciated.

 

You don't want battery in your cab. Not safe. Batteries out gas fumes.

 

You can mount a second battery in your engine bay. Off grid engineering makes a kit. You would want some type of solid or charger to go with it. I’d recommend a red arc bcdc 1225 charger (this also has a mppt solar built in. then pick up 1-2 panels. Hard panels renogy work fine. I have ran those. if you get 2 100’s or a large 160-200 that should suffice. Then you can run a power line from your aux battery to a fuse block and power things like fridge etc. for a laptop you would want an inverter ideally.

I have been running similar setup and leave things like my fridge running 24/7. It’s harder in winter time but figure you will Moving around and do get a solar charge you will be good.

the other option of you could get something like an eco flow, jackery? Goal zero etc and get a solar panel. You can charge while driving and it already has an inverter built in. I run the first setup noted but have a goal zero for starlink/laptop when parked.

There is some mods goi can convert the in truck inverter to be anytime 400 instead of 100 and tap and splice in a plug for in cab use. I also have that and use it for laptop work stops.

a lot of ways to go.
Option 1
Dual battery w/ redarc and offgrid battery mounts ( or your own)
Second battery AGM or run a lithium fork the cab ($$$$).
1-2 renogy panels I’d go 200watt.
fuse block and wires and all that. possibly an inverter

option 2
Portable lithium pack (goal zero, eco flow, jackery blu Etti etc.)
They have burnt in inverters
Add solar panel.

either of these are starter and would do what you need. You can also just run 1 bigger single battery (AGM) like a 31M ( I ran this for awhile too) and then just get a VICTRON 100/15 charger direct with panel.

 

Be very careful of installing two batteries in the stock location because that added weight will tear, fracture, and crack the sheet metal. The oil filler on the engine will contact the batteries and break off under off-roading situations.

The best second battery location is on the passenger side against the firewall behind the air filter box depending on what version of Tacoma you have.

 

If you do a lithium battery you can put that in your cab.

Be VERY careful with your wiring. Batteries hold a lot of energy and fires are no joke.

 

100% in my suggestion we have them on two sides of the engine bay not side by side. I forgot many have them side by side as well.

 

This statement alone tells me you should not be doing the install yourself. Go to an overland shop or an off-road shop. If you are not willing to put the work into research what you will need in general, what the tacoma can and cannot handle, etc. you should not be installing the gear/ putting your own system together. My suggestion is to get several high-end coolers and ice then just refill your ice every week for less than 30 bucks.

If you are set on doing this yourself you will need...

• A fridge that is able to run off of 12 volts direct current (12VDC)
• An energy source - if this energy source is tied into your Taco you will need to consider an isolator so that your fridge will not drain your start battery (retail systems are available)
• A safe place to mount your energy source (consider running your fridge off of a jackery or bluetti or some other, independent battery/inverter system)
• A way to charge your energy source (solar, dc-dc, ac-dc, whatever) depending on how you want/need to charge your system you will need to invest in a controller. Victron makes good stuff.

FYI, my ICECO 65L dual zone fridge consumes the most power of any of my off road travel trailer's systems. I have two group 24F lead acids and in the middle of summer running 32 deg F in one zone and 50 degF in the other to keep my water and drinks cool, I can go maybe two days without needing to charge. You will be constantly needing to run your taco if it is tied into charging system or you will constantly need to have a solar panel deployed (a single, 120W panel will barely keep you topped up). Get the most solar you can fit. If you are RTTing it, I highly recommend investing several thousand in a couple of 350W Bluetti panels.

I full-time it from my overland trailer and decided to get a Generac 2200i because it was so much more cost effective than a Bluetti setup and the Generac isn't dependent on the sun. My $.02.

Edit: if you are running Starlink or any other accessories other than just your fridge, a single battery and a small solar setup will need constant charging and your overland experience will be miserable. Get a small Honda or Generac generator and run it 4-6 hours a day when you are set-up (if you are places where you can run a generator - some spots do not allow that).

 

https://www.genesisoffroad.com//

 

Good call outs.I did the cooler think for awhile and its a drag for long trip or the way he is looking. Now I agree more research on Op side should be done or just pay someone to do it.

The easy task would prob be to get all in one units, generac. I can say a Goal Zero 1000X will power starlink for about 18 hours. Setting up to charge while driving, optional solar and a 1500 or 1000 or two and call it a day. No wiring really needed or minimal and it gets all the plugs, inverters you need.

While working on my setup I have a Goal Zero 1000x to support my starlink/laptop. This will get Op going then decide if its even worth installing or having someone install a more permanent setup.

 

Can't a battery box just be mounted in the bed. Lip04 lithium with either a solar charge controller or even a small trickle charger off the bed 110v power? I considered this for tailgating to run a small griddle, crockpot or TV when tailgating.

 

It certainly can. Many of what has already be said can be configured to run off a battery box with disconnects big anderson 50's. Battery, Solar controller, optional dc charger to main battery. The solar itself would work given ample sunlight. My next version won't be portable but the plan is to mount lithium bank, charger, controller etc in the bed of the truck and I plan to work on any cables going into the bed have the ability to be disconnected for bed removal if needed (super big PIA if you have wiring going to the back and no way to disconnect).

But if you plan on doing that I would just invest in one of the portable units on the market, goal zero, blue etti, eco flow, jackery etc. They are Lithium batteries with inverters and some with solar mppt already build in. Just add a solar panel and go and your already there. no need to build up anything else unless you need more than that, more power etc.

 

I have a Bluetti it's just not powerful enough to run an electric skillet. The bigger ones are just way too expensive. I know a generator is probably warranted here but don't feel like carrying one around for 30 min of frying. Have a bestek 1200 watt inverter runs the griddle just fine. Battery and box can probably be had for $400 or so. Maybe cheaper.

 

Off-Grid Engineering setup here. Two of the same AGM battery in the engine bay. BlueSea ACR auto connect/disconnect charge relay. Recommend the same battery as your starter if you want to charge the second battery with your alternator and not just solar. Recommend AGM and not LiPo for thermal robustness.

 

yah you need to get a BIG one. Tossing it out there since its an option and will do it. My only gripe after awhile with AGM And Lead is weight and the capacity. Lithium lighter and can drain to zero. But yah you have to pay to play.

 

Nice I have similar setup right now but with a RedArc 1225 but using a Victron MPPT mainly for BT support the 1225 also has a mppt controller for extra solar or could be used stand alone.

The offgrid setup is pricy but its a nice clean setup.

Also on your setup you can fit I think 27 OR another larger battery in the aux spot for more power. They say 35 but my buddy has a larger battery there. The 35's work but I find they are on edge of long support for fridges and other things in the colder months.

 

100% this ^. My next upgrade will be lithium batteries but holy frijoles are those things EXXXXpensive. I think I can get 50-75 lbs of weight off the tongue just by switching two lead acids for three lithiums. Downside is I'll need to switch out my 2 battery NOCO for a three battery NOCO charger for shore power / generator charging but the weight savings and energy capacity will be well worth it.

If any of you have extra money you don't know what to do with, send it my way. I'm beginning to think travel trailers are like boats. Always upgrading, always something else.

 

haha exactly. Depending on how you have it setup or the draw you may not need to upgrade since you will wire the lithiums likely in parallel and they will act as one larger bank. Comes down to charging AMPs or how much. For Tacomas most people get away with 1 100ah battery and you would not need any change and that would already more than double your useable power. 2-300Ah (where I am thinking) is not needed unless plan to have some high draw items. I have Starlink, fridge and some other 12v items that may at times be used often. 100ah prob will works but 200ah ensures less or no power needs or lack of power. With ample solar and charging. The batteries will likely be the last thing I purchase. If cost is a main factor there are decent ones out there at lower costs of the bigger name brands but generally less warranty or lack of some features just depends on the overall setup. If I go past 200ah it will be from a deal on a larger 270 or 300ah but likely plan to have a setup that will support up to 300ah. Once you go over 200ah it tends to require larger DC chargers and a lot more solar which may then keep me at 200ah.

A Goal Zero 1000x for example I believe is 50ah for anyone looking for the grab and go setups.

 

This is the perfect under hood setup!
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As long as it isn't a 3rd Gen Sport! ABS valving sits where that battery would go <sigh>. Pro and OR don't have Sport problems b/c crawl control.

 

My recommendation is you should just look at battery inverter like bluetti, anker or jackery. They may cost more but they are build with a battery and inverter and have the solar input all build for you.



If you want to go the diy then i recommend you getting a lifepo4 battery 12v 100 amp. Add a dc to dc charger with 20 amp limit for car charging from alternator. Then also add that with solar panel. Then you also need an inverter if you wish to use 120v. lifepo4 are safe to use in car and allow you to use 95% of it capacity before recharge.