Driveshaft & universal joint?

I'm needing to replace these universal joints on my truck, called a Toyota dealership parts dept. the other day, theyr telling me that they don't sell these universal joints & I would have to buy the whole driveshaft with these in it for $1300. so my question is, r these universal joints the same size as the driveshaft going to the rear differential driveshaft universal joint? I'm thinking I can just buy 2 of them universal joints & replace these 2 in the pic. Sure hope I asked that right, & not confusing, I apologize if so. Anyone else had this issue? thanks to whoever's pic this is. Any helpful advice would be greatly appreciated.

 

Somewhere on the site there is a write up on rebuilding the double cardan joint. Reportedly its more complicated than a regular u-joint replacement due to the centering ball between the two, and i think the sizing is different too. It might be easier to look for a used driveshaft replacement.

 

How do you know the U joints in the double cardan are bad? Generally they tend to outlast the U joints at the ends of the driveshaft because of the included angle the DC is able to rotate through.

I believe @Dirty Pool has a writeup about changing the DC components, it seems like a difficult process.

 

I read somewhere that they are the same u-joints for the entire driveshaft, might have been Dirty Pool's write-up. Toyota replaces the cardan joint as a whole. Guessing they consider it too much effort. A friend dropped off his driveshaft and a bunch of u-joints at a local drive-shaft specialty shop. They had no issue in getting them all replaced so I know it can be done.

 

The u joints are not the same and are a bitch to find. Why do you think they are bad? Try greasing them up.

 

Here is a write up for 2002 truck it may help.

http://www.yotatech.com/f2/double-cardan-u-joint-teardown-02-tacoma-177712/

 

A driveline shop would be a better choice for the repair if they are bad . The dealer most likely farms out a job like this or tries to sell you a new driveshaft .
I use to charge a couple hundred to rebuild these .

 

From the original thread here
https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads/double-cardan-joint.273119/

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TACOMA DOUBLE CARDAN​

Mostly about the "inside clip" style​

U-JOINTS

The u-joints are not the same as the shaft ends. Neapco, Precision, Rockford, Spicer and Matsuba Universal Joint Co (Matsuba is considered to be an OEM equivalent) are the only folks that make a dimensionally correct u-joint for the 95-99 xcab Tacoma Double Cardan or CV with "inside" clips. At some point (not confirmed) after 99, some trucks may have the "outside" clip style. The OEM Koyo's are not marketed to the public at all. Folks in the know will tell you the only replacement worth the time is the Matsuba. The Matsuba should be increasingly available through a handful of off road specialty shops such as Cruiser Outfitters that sell Matsuba. You may need to supply the Matsuba part# UJ236.

No company lists a Tacoma application with the exception of Rockford for the outside clip style only. The outside clip style does not have the joint caps located as deep into the yoke. This may allow them to be removed in the conventional manner. The inside clip style requires the procedure featured in this write-up.

The dimensionally correct joint for the inside clip type is usually listed under “T 100 front” and some of the pre Tacoma trucks. No matter, IMO (and many others) none equal Matsuba. One rumor says Koyo is made by Matsuba. Rather than loose any sleep worrying about the wimpy quality of the Neapco c-clips on the joints I first installed (ran them for 15-20K without issue), they were pulled back out, tossed, and the OEM Koyos put back in. I didn't even want to keep them for my spare shaft. The OEM Koyo joints were still like new at 200K miles. My whole reason for the rebuild was an issue with the relief valve for the centering ball, another story.





For Inside clip type 1.125" cap, all the joints below are dimensionally the same.

Neapco-#1-5800, Center Ball Kit #7-0409 USA made, used by many shops, questionable (by me) "wimpy" c-clips, I ran them for 15-20K with out issue

Precision-#513 Made in China

Spicer-#5-2532x May be obsolete

Rockford-#407-10 No personal experience

Matsuba-#UJ236 Spend the money on these, $30-$40. To date they are only stocked here http://www.highangledriveline.com/


The only known replacement joint for the outside clip type. 1.065" cap

Rockford Drive Line-#2540 The DC looks like the pic at the very end of the write-up and seems to be more prevalent on after 99 shafts.

Let's get to it

"Inside clip" type​

DO NOT remove your OEM ball unless you are sure it is bad. (some slight play between the ball and it's race is normal).

HOW TO DO IT, this is the unique procedure for the "inside clip" style. The "outside clip" version may come apart like a conventional u-joint with out the "washer trick" mentioned in the 4x4wire link below.

This is not a job to attempt your first time on the floor in a dark garage or something to tackle if a regular u-joint job is not second nature to you. I will assume that you have read and understand everything in the following link for the basic principle (washer trick) and the EXACT ORDER of dis-assembly. http://www.4x4wire.com/toyota/tech/cvmod/ Forget about the modification part.

There are a number of flaws in that write up. The following changes/additions worked for me.


I used a hammer for dis-assembly and a “C-Clamp” type ball joint press for assembly. The latter because I have one and it offers more control. Pressing the caps back in with sockets and a vice will be just as effective. Tapping the caps in with a hammer will work, just keep an extra vigilant eye on the needles. Be very careful of the rubber skirt that shields the ball. The biggest thing with this job for the 1st timer is to THINK AHEAD.

First, note the EXACT WAY the OEM cap retainer clips are positioned. Draw yourself a little picture including the relationship of all the parts. The new clips must be installed in the exact same position with the open end of the “C” pointing along the drive line length. The clips must equally span the 2 crescent shaped bosses on the inboard side of the bore on the “H” (pic #2). Before removal clean the living heck out of the recesses outboard of the caps down to bare metal and add a few drops of a penetrating oil.

Supporting the flange end against the corner of a vice (4x4wire) and pounding on the “H” with a mallet is sort of crude and could easily damage things. A short piece of 3” x 1/4” channel cut nice and square on the trusty Binford 4600 band saw, supports the yoke perfectly (pic #1). Once the "H" is pounded to the point where the joint stops against the “H”, fish the needles out of the gap at the opposite end with a rare earth magnet gripped in a hemostat, quick and easy. You should have 25 needles. Then do the washer trick to get the cap the rest of the way out. The washers I used were .65” diameter. This size is not critical, if the washers fit in the cap all is well. The joint can then be separated and the remaining cap tapped out with a nice brass drift. At this point, very important, Pay close attention to the motions used and position/angle of the ball as the joint comes apart, it will help with assembly.

Repeat the process for the shaft end joint.



To assemble, do the shaft end first. It goes together like a conventional joint. Then install the remaining joint into the flange end. You should have something just like pic # 2. At this point start by packing the hole in the centering ball with grease and plunge the spring into the ball not into the pin as the pic shows. The grease will hold the spring and needles in place through the tricky part. Keep it straight and don’t dislodge any of the tiny needles. You must be absolutely positive that the ball needles are in place during the entire operation, any doubt at any point, back up and make sure.

Remove the remaining two caps from the flange end. Take the lower cap (upper/lower orientation refers to pic #2) and press it into the lower bore of the “H” until the seal is flush with the inside edge of the bore. This will give you a place to “park” the joint while you start the other cap after the tricky part. Do not start the upper cap yet. Getting the “pin” over the spring and into the ball with out dislodging a needle is the tricky part. With no cap in the upper bore and the ball tilted up a bit there is enough room to slide the pin into the ball (against the spring pressure).

Tip the bare upper shaft of the flange end joint into the empty upper hole of the “H”. You should see how at this point the pin will be a straight shot into the ball, adjust the angle of the ball if need be. The joint/flange is then tilted back down to allow the lower shaft to be slipped into the lower cap. When the lower shaft is inserted into the lower cap (parked) the spring in the ball will be held compressed and the upper cap can be installed after a short breather. Before installing the upper cap, check that no needles have been dislodged. Once the upper cap is started you will not be able to deal with a dislodged needle. Rehearse this move a few times then go for it.

A c-frame ball joint press or a wide vice works best for smooth controlled assembly.

Double check your clip placement and you’re done. It took me longer to write this than it did to R+R the 2 joints the second time.

If you need to change the ball (not likely) locate a short bolt, total length no longer than the diameter of the ball. Stick it into the ball then rotate the ball 180 deg and pull the threaded end of the bolt out the hole. This gives a threaded “stud” to attach your choice of pullers. My puller was a nut, washer and a few scraps of steel. See pics 3, 4 and 5. Some write ups on the net say to just pry it out, I like my little puller. Tap the new ball in with a socket against the race. The race is off centered a bit on the ball, check the orientation of the OEM race as it is removed and install the new one the same way. Follow with the ball seal.

Be aware that there are 2 sizes for the center ball. My 99 took the larger .510" stud. I think the smaller one is .470" or there about.



The end,

aside from the "Centering Ball Grease Pressure Relief Valve Mod", another story.





Picture #1 , All the tools used. The length of 1/2" brass tube helps to align the needles in the ball should they get dislodged. Note how the 3" channel supports the yoke.




Picture #2 The crescent shaped bosses can be seen inside the bottom bore of the "H".




Picture #3




Picture #4




Picture #5





Outside clip style DC joint.

 

This is worth mentioning. If you have to go with a less than OEM joint (in any spot) and it has a provision for a zerk between the joint shafts, install it so the hole is "in compression" when driving forward. Not being "pulled apart". It's a weak spot but less so if it is being squeezed.

See the little hex plug between the joint shafts below for optional zerk location. It's a Neapco joint.

 

some good information to know. think I'll just do the non-cardan ones and call it good when I do mine.

 

thank u all for ur replys, & information. I found a used one for now, & today I found a place somewhat local that rebuilds them.

 

Are these the same on regular cab tacomas?

 

Nevermind, my regular cab has it

 

took my original driveshaft to a driveline specialist yesterday, they said it would be $200 just in case y'all were wondering. thank all of u for ur replies.

 

My tacoma drive shaft doesn't have a double cardan, and all my I-joints are greasable, is this common on a tacoma or has my drive shaft been modified by a previous owner?

 

Double cardans are on 4WDs not on 2WDs.
And this is about 1gen 4x4s

 

Mine is 4wd maybe some one swapped the axel?

 

But is it a 1st gen Tacoma?
This is a 1st gen forum. 2008 is 2nd gen which has a CV not a double cardan. Which is one reason why vibration after lifts is a problem 2005 and up.