Driveshaft replacement

Could anyone recommend a source for a good quality replacement driveshaft assembly for my 2nd gen (2010) four door 4.0 Prerunner? The shop that last replaced my u-joints has gone out of business, and I'm concerned that they didn't maintain alignment when they reassembled it because it hasn't been very long since I had them replaced. It looks like I can get the entire assembly and DIY replace it for ballpark what I would end up paying a shop to replace just the u-joints and carrier bearing again, and then I wouldn't have to worry about it being out of balance, so I was leaning toward going that route. I'm reading that the length of the shaft varies, and that the bolt patterns at the transfer case and pinion may or may not be the same, so obviously I just want to make sure I'm getting the right parts. I'm also reading that not all replacements out there are created equal. Another thing to keep in mind is that I'm fairly green when it comes to this type of repair, so any feedback would be appreciated. Thanks in advance.

 

Check out Tacoma beast . Com
online
new ones for around 800

 

Here's all your options from rock auto, looks like they have some good prices.

https://www.rockauto.com/en/catalog/toyota,2010,tacoma,4.0l+v6,1445515,drivetrain,drive+shaft,2308

 

What’s the problem? Vibration? How many miles ago was the repair? What kind of center carrier was used last? If a cheap Chinese replacement, that’s likely all you need replacing.

 

Dude. If you have access to some basic tools, and can access the ujoint press and bearing puller from a parts store, rockauto.com for Dana/Spicer parts.

Honestly, I’m green to this as well. I was on here a month ago, asking if I needed to use a socket and BFH to replace ujoints. Encouraged to read, I did, and lots of YouTube vids as well. Remember, there’s no one right way to do it. There are tricks to learn from multiple people that YOU feel comfortable with. For me, $200CAD and a couple weeks wait, I’m just waiting for weather to cooperate.

 

A socket and a hammer is all you need, replace the joints for around $20 each. No need to replace the driveshaft itself.

 

Hey Hodgee, Your post is pretty recent, but it looks like I'm in the exact same quandary as you were...I have a 2007 Prerunner RWD extended cab w/ a 4.0 V6...I replaced everything on my driveshaft a couple years ago and now it's screaming hell...Here's where I am ....I've been real low on cash and have driven the truck way too long since it's been chirping ..I checked it last week and the rear ujoint at the differential is shot...And I'm about to go check the rear yoke again because I ...think....I saw a chip that had been broken off...Not sure because I didn't have good light that night...But the yoke may be wallered out anyway since I've gone too long....I DID happen to find a entire replacement driveshaft on Amazon ( I'm not sure how long they've been available because a rebuild was my only option 2 years ago....Im pretty sure what I have seen is around 399 bucks and I think I saw one even cheaper...And there looks to be more options to look at on this thread as well...AND the damn thing never has felt balanced since I rebuilt it the first time anyway ( thanks to my buddy who reinstalled it ) it might be installed improperly...Ive never been able to get my head around the proper way to reinstall it anyway ( hence my buddy ) and he made so many markings before I took it out ( he used pink ) that I'm at a total loss....But I have checked my Driveline folks and that was my option until I saw the replacements online and now thinking I have a damaged yoke....And to boot, when you mentioned all the bolt pattern possibilities and replacement inferiority crap.....Well now...you know where I am....Today, I don't know what the best move is....I'm wanting to get a ujoint removal kit since it's such a problem and I don't have a proper work area ( RVs suck as a shop ). ...I'm not even sure you have a 2wd but I think so.....So, can you fill me in on your outcome ? It's been a few months since you first posted and any info you have may be the key for my decision.....Anybody else that's on this thread as well....Help this poor sap out...It's gonna make me bring a 90 dollar bottle of bourbon home from work tonight if I can't figure this out..I finally have my financial situation back in order and I'm ready to get this shit done....I am damn near ready to get rid of this truck just because of it's bearing problems, sealed transmissions, frame rusting , and no communication dept of Toyota....I'm now sounding pitiful and more than pissed...lol

 

I couldn't read any further...

Dude. Have you ever heard of punctuation and paragraphs.

Your post is too painful to attempt reading.

 

Well hell Jimmy, You got me on the punctuation and I reread my post after seeing yours..It was a mixture of frustration and being in a big hurry to get to work today..I did something that I never do , which was to text that entire mess as I was driving from Knoxville into Jefferson City..But I'm a real busy dude, and I have to get this problem solved in the next couple of days...I'm retired but I now have to work to make ends meet...The airline industry saw fit to screw me out of a huge chunk of my pension..So yeah, I'm a little frustrated and I haven't had this truck long enough to know everything there is to know...But hey , this site has been good to me so far and I think that post was actually pretty damn good considering I was hauling ass at 80 mph trying to make my job on time...Which I did btw. So maybe you can cut me a little slack on the bad punctuation...I was just asking for some help...Maybe someone else can help point me in the right direction...I'd very much appreciate any help ...Thanks !

 

@MyMule Whereas I also stopped reading your post after a couple sentences, I still found post #8 disrespectful and uncalled for.

Regarding your imbalanced drivetrain, did you replace your center bearing?

 

Disrespectful and uncalled for? .

It makes his problem hard to understand as even you admitted you couldn't/wouldn't read through it. I was only giving him some helpful advice so that others that would otherwise skip the wall of text may read it and offer some assistance.

Maybe he should also quit posting / texting while driving a vehicle at 80 MPH before he kills himself or someone else.

Or is that too disrespectful and uncalled for too?

 

It's not what you wrote but how you wrote it. You can be address people politely and inviting, or rude and mean-spirited. One can clearly see the approach you followed.

 

Well you are certainly entitled to your "opinion".

I suppose you think he is OK texting and driving 80 MPH down the highway too?

 

It's not OK, but I wasn't going to assume he was typing. He could have dictated his text message.

 

Forget it fellas...I appreciate it Chuy.... Jimmy, I just asked for some help..But I don't want yours ..Your first response was answered with respect from me...The rest of it doesn't make enough sense to offend me...You have plenty more to be concerned by attacking someone asking for help..The stupidity of your response isn't worth it...

 

Tom woods one piece is what I went with

 

If you're still reading your thread, then I'd recommend finding a way to replace the U-joints and carrier bearing yourself. If you're unable to, or rather not, perhaps try reaching out to other nearby members who would be willing to help in exchange for something. I'm fairly positive a good mechanical shop could also do this for you for less than a DS.

 

We'll see if replacing the joints would do for my friend's new '08 Taco project. The previous owner said it got involved in a accident (hit a fence) so we'll see. The new tires and moto metal wheels are will be installed this weekend so we'll take a closer look.

 

even if the driveshaft is dented, replacing the joints can never hurt. A driveline shop can balance it if it's dented and you'll have basically a brand new DS for less than half the cost of an OEM one.