Do I need UCA's ?

Eibach Pro lift kit set at the bottom for 2.5" lift. Shop did the best they could and it seems to ride ok. If I do need some I'd be looking for the best budget option. I don't want to spend a ton more money.

 

I lived with worse on my old Monte Carlo with eibach drop springs, camber was horrible and I went through front tires every year

I don’t know what you’d need to correct but I’d say save up and buy once cry once, suspension parts with grease fittings are a good investment

 

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=huMztKaHsUE&t=6s

 

Thanks for that. This guy is great. Also watched his vid on diff drops and convinced me I don't need to drop mine. Still a bit confused wether I need UCA's or not and which ones I'd need.

 

Personally I would lower the truck to the point it can be aligned and skip the UCAs.

Also keep in mind that if you truly have 2.5" of lift you probably have minimal down travel and that could reduce your ride quality. I suggest measuring the distance from the center of the hub to the edge of the fender flare both at ride height and at full droop and subtract the two measurements to get your max down travel. So there could be at least two reasons to lower it down.

 

Measuring the truck with tires on the ground it looks like I only got 2" of lift. Was around 20" center to fender before lift and is now 22"-ish I lifted both the back and the front the same to keep the factory amount of rake.

I bought this kit and had the perch set at the lowest setting. https://www.headstrongoffroad.com/s...05-2015_Toyota_Tacoma_-_E80-82-007-01-22.html

I bought this as apposed to going with the Bilstein set up because it's offered from one manufacture and is designed to work together. It rides great. Thanks but I'm not tearing it apart to put factory springs in it to get less of a lift.

 

Note that Bilstein shocks are made to work with the stock springs, but that is neither here or there at this point.

 

Thank you, I understand that. This is not the Bilstein's.

 

I was responding to your comment about buying the eibach coilovers instead of bilstein shocks because they are “designed to work together”. In both cases, the shocks and springs are designed to work together.

 

Ok. sorry.

Yeah I went 2" in the front because when I had the rear leads replaced I replaced them with general HD springs. I didn't expect them to lift the truck at all, unfortunately that wasn't the case. They gave me 2". With 4" of rake it looked ridiculous.

 

I’m not familiar with “general HD springs”, but generally speaking, increasing the stiffness of your springs will result in increased ride height.

 

Thanks for your help

 

So after watching the video again and a bit of research I'm going to try the OME UCA's. They're less expensive than most, are designed for upto 2" of lift and thus look like they don't have too much extra caster camber.

 

OME UCAs might work fine for you, but your reasoning is confusing to me. Typically UCAs either come with built-in extra caster (e.g. 2*) or they have adjustable caster (e.g. SPC). I've never heard of any coming with built-in extra camber, but the SPC's, for example, have adjustable camber.

When you lift the truck, you lose caster. If you lift it too far, you out strip the ability to adjust it back into spec. In most cases, a UCA with built-in caster is all you need to get the truck back to spec. If you need even more flexibility (e.g. you are trying to fit bigger tires), you can go with an adjustable UCA.

I think this is also explained in the video I linked.

 

FFS "The OME Upper Control Arm will provide an increase between +2.5 and +3.5 degrees of caster and up to
1.5 degrees of negative camber increase (figures based off an approximate 50mm or 2in lift)."

 

Ah ok. I like how Toytec/ARB provide detailed product info. Many retailers/manufacturers do not.

I think some of the other non-adjustable "high caster" UCAs provide slightly less caster (like 2 degrees), but don't quote me on that.

For comparison sake, I have SPCs and they are adjustable between 0-4 degrees caster and +-2 degrees camber. With an approximately 2" lift I currently have 4 degrees of caster. I didn't actually ask for that much caster, but I asked the shop to move my wheel all the way forward to get rid of a slight tire rub.