Do DENSO iridium long life spark plugs require Anti Seize on thread?

Hi,
I have 2015 Tacoma 2.7 pre runner double cab approaching 160k mile with original spark plugs.

The OE spark plug maker DENSO shows iridium long life spark plug with part number SK20HR-A11.

I couldn't find these particular part number spark plug at local part store so bought it from the dealer.

Denso website does not provide any information about anti seize either way!
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My questions is that do I need to apply spark plug anti seize on actual treads of the spark plug?

 

I put anti seize on my plugs. Use very little, just enough to cover a few Of the lower threads. YMMV

 

Not sure if required per se but I think it's a prudent decision to use it.

 

Look at Rockauto next time as even with shipping they are way cheap - like $10 delivered for 4 plugs.
Yes to anti seize so they will come out next time.

 

Some say you need to use the correct kind of anti-seize because of the aluminum heads and you need to be carful not to over torque them because of the anti-seize.

 

I use it on my V6. Many people here say it's the worst thing in the world. Though, they always come right out with no issue so I don't see why I wouldn't use it. Short answer..yes.

 

always start with a stone cold engine, ( not started ) for eight hours. I read some where recently that DENSO plugs come new with anti-seize, I have to agree with everyone here, if used prudently it cannot hurt.
But do use a Proper Torque wrench to 13lbs. buy a digital if you can

 

Yeah, rockauto sales same OE spark plugs for about $8 (plus tax n shipping); the dealer sales at $16. So, for sure Rockauto is the way to go. Thank you!

 

Thank you for torque spec!
I always go to this post to find torque specs https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads/the-torque-spec-guide.318116/

Btw, i went all over the DENSO website for something that says "...DENSO plugs comes with new anti-seize.." and could not find that info; but they do say that "If you apply grease or another screw thread lubricant to the threaded part of the plug, you are liable to tighten the plug to an excessive degree, impairing the integrity of the seal, even if you apply no more than the recommended torque. For this reason, do not coat the plug with screw thread lubricant." (per following weblink)

Here is link to DENSO basic installation guide https://www.denso.com/global/en/pro...vice-parts-and-accessories/plug/basic/torque/

So, I agree with you and i will be using anti-seize and i will be torqueing at 20% less so at 10.4 ft*lbf.

 

Use it, the copper stuff is the best.

 

Don't over think it. I use anti seize on mine and tighten them down without a torque wrench. No problems here.

 

Anytime there's a steel bolt, including stainless steel, that threads into aluminum use anti-seize otherwise it will corrode and seize.

 

The over torquing thing can be real if you use a torque wrench and have no sense of feel.

I use copper anti seize with any aluminum head, very sparingly, and install the plug by hand (not using a ratchet) till it stops. Insures not being cross threaded, at least for me.

With the ratchet in place, I turn slowly until I feel the crush washer engage, then crush. An additional quarter to half turn will then seat / torque it properly.

 

Some say to use antiseize, some say no. Right or wrong, I use a small amount of it (copper) on my spark plug threads.

Here's an interesting link with torque values: https://www.nology.com/torque.html

 

Like all them said, Yes

 

We all know what good it can do.
What harm can it do?

 

Be careful some of the cheap torque wrenches can be wildly inaccurate low torque values - some click or don't click depending on how quickly (!) you turn the handle, etc. The alternative method is to thread the plug in by hand until it bottoms (the anti-seize makes it easy to tell by feel). Then snap a long ratchet handle onto the extension and give it a half turn.

https://www.denso.com/global/en/pro...vice-parts-and-accessories/plug/basic/torque/
(our plugs are M14)

 

I slop anti-seize just about everything unless there's some reason I shouldn't (like head bolts when doing a head gasket, I do it exactly like the procedure says). What you have to worry about anti-seizing spark plugs is torquing too much which can break them or strip the thread from the head.

The general rule with anti-seize if a lubricated value is not given is to lower the value by 25%. The spark plug torque for the 1GR and 2TR is 18 N*m/13 ft*lb and there is no mention in the FSM for anti-seize (other than what might be on them from Denso and NGK). I personally use 10 ft*lb with copper anti-seize.

 

Just replaced my denso long life's. I used a small dab on the very bottom threads and then tightened them using the method mentioned above, finger tight with socket and extension then with a 3/8 ratchet a good 1/2 turn but definitely no more than 3/4 turn". Try to feel the washer beginning to crush on it beginning to compress but don't crush and flatten it....if that makes any sense

 

Anti seize is my friend. On my vehicle, I like to scrub every faster I remove with wd40 and a toothbrush, then put it in with anti seize. Of course if it requires locktite it needs to be oil free so I’ll clean it with carb cleaner first. Plugs always get anti seize, snug them tight without a torque wrench, only problems is if the guy before me cross threaded.