DIY Valve swap for Secondary air injection system P2440 and P2442

At 134,987 miles on my 2012 V6 Tacoma Access Cab I had the CEL and TRAC OFF lights come on during my drive home from work. I soon realized that my truck wasn't acting right and pulled into a parking lot. After a search for those two lights being on, I came across a few threads on here saying it was likely the Secondary Air valve and that the ECU went into limp mode. I managed to get home in limp mode and read the codes to find that I indeed had the P2440 and P2442 codes for Secondary Air bank 2 valve stuck open. After reading through the 12 pages in this thread, https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads/secondary-air-injection-system-p2440-and-p2442.370792/, and then the 32 pages in this thread, https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads/secondary-air-injection-switching-valve.381997/, I decided to go ahead and swap out the valve assembly. So far the swap has resolved the problem, and as you can see in these photos there was a lot of carbon build up on the original part and the valves are quite clearly stuck open.



And these are the happy, clean new valves that came on the part that I bought.

 

Wow reed valves on a new truck? That's just like a 2 stroker

 

I thought I drove a lot - close to 90K miles on my '12.

Was this a straightforward install?

Link to part?

 

Tools needed:
10mm socket
12mm socket
Pliers (For hose clamps)
T25 torx bit

Parts needed:
25710-31022 Diverter Valve
17377-31010 Gasket Air Tube No (2ea)
Good source for parts: http://www.toyotaonlineparts.com/oe-toyota/2571031022



Total time was under 2 hours, I removed the part and then had to wait for the new one to come in the mail. Also with taking pictures through the process that probably added a little extra time to the whole process.

To access the valve assembly you need to remove the Secondary Air Pump and the air intake tube.



To remove the pump from it's bracket you simple pop these three rubber mounts from the pump by prying them away from the pump. You should be able to do this with just your fingers, if you need to use a screw driver be careful not to tear the rubber mount.


To remove the pump bracket there are 3x 10mm bolts to remove and then you need to disconnect the wire harness on the side of the bracket. Also one end of the air tube will need to be disconnected, either end is fine.


*I have another picture that shows the 3rd bolt, but can't find it right now. I will add it when I remember which camera I took it with.

To remove the air intake tube there are 2x 12mm bolts, one under where the air pump bracket was.



Now you will need to remove the harness bracket for the valve harnesses. This is a single 10mm bolt.



Tuck the harness and bracket out of the way.



The engine bay should now look like this.



Remove the two air lines, one that comes from the pump, and then the one that feeds both valves, to gain better access to the exhaust tube bolts.



To remove the valve there are 2x 12mm nuts on the top, one 12mm bolt on the bottom side, and then the 4x 10mm bolts on the 2 exhaust lines.



Remove the 4x 10mm bolts from the exhaust lines first, and then the 12mm nuts/bolt. NOTE: both bolts on the forward exhaust tube in tmy truck snapped off. They almost appear too have been welded in place. If you do break them off you can simply got to a local hardware store and grab M6 bolts to replace them.

This is what the snapped off bolts looked like.



The 12mm bolt on the bottom can't be seen from the top, this picture was taken from the front looking aft in the truck, and shows where the bolt is. The 10mm bolts marked in this photo are the two that snapped off.




To get the part out you will need to use some force. The exhaust in and out lines push the valve assembly against the engine block and it takes some pressure to get the assembly up off the two studs on the top. Be careful to not damage the threads on the studs. When you remove the valve assembly also remove the two metal gaskets from the exhaust lines.

You are now ready to install the new part!

The T25 Torx bit is only needed if you want to remove the valves from the rest of the assembly. Once you remove the 4ea T25 bolts from each valve you may need to "bump" the side of the valve with a rubber mallet to break it free from the rest of the valve assembly.

Here is a sped up video of the removal, I pulled out the segments where I was out of the engine bay.

 

To install the part you will need to install the 2ea gaskets onto the exhaust lines. The gaskets have clips that hold them to the lines while you slide the part into place. Then you again need to use some pressure to move the lines out of the way, with the part, to align the valve assembly onto the studs.



Start the top two 12mm nuts that hold the valve assembly, but do not tighten them down, you will want some ability to wiggle the assembly around to start the other bolts.

Now install the 2ea 10mm bolts in both exhaust lines and tighten them down. I do not have a service manual to know the Toyota spec torques, but 3-5ft/lbs should be the normal torque for that size bolt.

Now install the 12mm bolt on the bottom of the valve, be careful not to drop it. Again, I don't know what the torque is for this bolt, mine is German Torqued to Gutten Tight.

Now tighten the top 2x 12mm nuts down also. Once those are tight you can install the wire harness bracket and connect the harness.

Now reinstall the air intake tube and 2x 12mm bolts.

Next reinstall the Air pump bracket, 3x 10mm bolts. Connect the wire harness and then put the pump back into the rubber mounts. Reconnect the air hose between the pump and valve.

You should have a shiny new valve that looks like this.



Be sure to erase your P2440 and P2442 codes before starting you truck back up. You should now have no lights on and your truck should be running good.

Here is video of the install.

 

Good write up! Well documented - subbed for future ref.
Cheers

 

Thanks, I figured with the rate of failure, there could be a lot of people needing this info. If you are mechanically inclined it's a simple job, if not then maybe this will help out.

 

Here is a video with both removal and install in one clip.

 

Hoping to do this ASAP. Thank you very much for posting the pictures.
I am coding every day for the last three days. I am trying to find the part number for the valves you got (mine's a 2012 4.0l 6 spd).
Part numbers I can find is:
1x 25710-????? Switching Valves
2x 17377 metal gaskets
2x M6 Spare bolts
anything else?

I'm in BC, Canada so I have to order from the Canadian equivalent to the Toyota Parts Direct online store...
Any help on part numbers is appreciated because, currently the only one I can find online is a kit with c/w Pump at $900. but I just want the valves, gaskets correct?

 

PNs in post #4

Wish we could just buy the top end of the assembly, would be nice to be able to swap out the valves after they get gunked up.

I said it in one of the other threads, but I plan to remove the valves, probably ever 10k miles, and clean them to try to extend their life.

 

Found the PNs, Thanks!.
I agree it should become a maintenance item until a betterment can be made. The bypass doesn't seem like the answer. Almost want to fab a little inline moisture trap so the moisture can be purged easily, but I know its a bit more than that considering the conditions they are exposed too.

 

Subd. Thank you for your post OP!

 

Not that I have it but just asking (for others I suppose) is there any known procedure for keeping the valve clean and not needing replacement?

 

You could use this remove and install, take it apart and clean the manifold out with a brush and some alcohol I think. Or just remove the top end of the valves using a T25 torx bit and clean the valves off with like carb cleaner or isopropyl alcohol. I'll definitely update this whenever I do get around to that task.

*Note:
I will try to see what cleaning I can do on the removed valve manifold and valves, although I snapped the small screws off so the valves themselves I can't do much with. But at least it will help figure out possible ways to clean these guys up.

 

Nicely documented. Have to keep this handy.
In your opinion is there any advantage to replacing just the new valves on the old bracket over replacing the whole assembly?

 

Subbed for future reference. I'm sure I'm gonna need this soon.

 

I think the advantage is in replacing the whole assembly. It would be easy to only replace the top end, but look how much carbon build up is in the manifold. All that dust would just spread to the new valves and shorten their life, I think. If you could by the valves separate I would probably just replace them, but you get the whole thing, so might as well swap it out and get a nice clean manifold.

 

This is a great source of info. Thanks for the well documented procedure. Not sure I can do it, but still worth knowing.

 

Thanks so much for this write up! Just got the same trouble code this morning and found this with a Google search. Just completed the tear down, now I have to locate the part.
Also.... please explain the "2each gaskets" is that 2 gaskets per line or 2 gaskets 1 for each?

 

There is a gasket on the lines into and coming from the valve assy. In theory you could probably skip replacing these with new parts and use the old one. But for a few dollars why not just put new ones in?