DIY Upper and Lower Radiator Bushings replacement

Hey all, I recently discovered that my trucks radiator upper and lower bushings were shot resulting in a ton of noises when driving.

I haven't seen anyone talking about the upper and lower radiator bushings before so I thought I'd make a short DIY for this simple job that cut down the amount of noise drastically.

Tools required:
10mm socket or philips screw driver
12mm socket
P/N: 16547-0P110
P/N: 16548-0P110
vice grips or something to grip the bushing nut

Pop the hood and remove the grill to get more room to work. You don't have to do this but I'd recommend it. The grill removes easy with a 10mm socket or screw driver and removing the 2 body clips. undo the lower tabs connecting to the headlights and lift the grill vertically out.

next locate the radiator bushings, on the right side the upper radiator bushing is located just below the radiator cap. On the left side it's located in the same spot.


From underneath the bumper locate the lower bushings following the radiator.


loosen the bushings using a 12mm socket and something to support the nut. You want the bushing bolts as loose as possible without removing them. Once they are all loose remove the bolts and bushings one at a time lifting a corner of the radiator away from the radiator support.

The bushings separate into 2 pieces, most of mine were easy but two were stubborn. replace with the new bushings same way you removed them. Once all 4 have been replaced tighten them until radiator is firmly in place but the rubber is not budging or split.

Here's a photo of the old bushings, not the worst, but definitely weren't doing the job anymore


Hope this helps someone.

Simple job and made a huge difference, good luck.

 

I know this is an old thread...but do you recall the differences (if any) between the upper and lower bushings?

Mine are out and are possibly missing pieces, and it's not clear which parts I should order, and which go in the top and which go in the bottom mounts. A couple are in good shape, and they all 'look' the same.

Only two of mine are 2-piece bushings... They fell out once I removed the bolts. It appears that a PO has already had the radiator out....

There doesn't appear to be any reason for different upper and lower part numbers. The radiator upper and lower mounts are identical, as is the car side. And by all appearances, the rubber bushings are identical (except for the 2 missing washer pieces). But the price difference between the two Part numbers is huge.

 

I was researching the radiator bushing issue and found this posting. I know its an old post. That said, getting these bolts/bushings out was a real job when the bolts are rusted into the integral nuts on the bushings.
So, could not find these bushings on line, specifically the lower ones. Dealer stated that the bottom ones are on backorder. That would be the number 16548-OP110. The uppers are available. They also have a small hook that ties into the radiator support. So, I ordered two of the uppers. Received the next day and found what I think is one of the bottom bushings mislabeled as a top bushing. Tried the next day to order two more, but got the correct top bushings. So, I wonder if the bottom bushings are on backorder because they are being mislabeled as top bushings? As I said, the top bushings have the little hook on the top.

 

One other thing I thought about. My bushings looked like the OP's bushings, fairly worn out and since it was Wisconsin truck with a replaced frame, the bolts were seized in the nuts/shafts inside the bushings. But, some of the large washer look good holding the bushings together.
It may be possible to compensate for the lack of the bottom bushings...either cut off the little hook that is on the top bushings or take the whole inside metal tube with nut attached out, replace the rubber with the new bushing and then put the unit back together for the bottom bushings. the top bushings, as I mentioned are still available. For how long...don't know. I don't know how the guys in the north, salt states are dealing with this, but if those bolts are seized inside of the nuts, its a bear to get them out because its tough getting a tool on the nut. They don't give you a great deal of metal to put a wrench on it or a vise grip, never mind location.

 

Poor bastard in a salt state checking in. Did a water pump in my ‘06 and decided to take the radiator out to make a little more room - this one was brined by the ocean in New Hampshire for many years.

The two bottom bushings were seized solid. I was in a bit of a blind rage when I got it apart but there was some combination of giant vise grips, small cutoff wheel, 1/2” impact, and violence.

The integral nut ripped off that portion of the bushing, but there was still some rubber extending past the mounting hole in the radiator so I cobbled up some M8 bolts and stainless fender washers to squish everything back together for now.

I chased the threads on both sides of the top bushings and slathered everything in anti seize. Seems to work OK so far.

I couldn’t tell you if it sounds better or worse, this truck’s in one of it’s rattly eras and I plan to yank the body/engine after winter to take on some of the rust and refresh the suspension. These radiator bushings are actually a nice treat after you’ve done control arms on a salty truck.

When I do the big refresh I’m thinking I’ll try to find a suitable replacement for the rubber portion of the bushing. The center tubes seem to have a very heavy zinc coating and don’t corrode much. I’ll follow up after that’s done.

 

Also poor bastard in salty climate (Ontario). I tried to replace my AC condenser. Needed to partially remove the radiator (at least the lower mounts) but the nuts were seized so I figured I'd get some new hardware before I rip it all apart. I searched for the part numbers you shared. $23/ea. My new condenser was cheaper than the cost for 4 new bushings