DIY rust repair advice needed

How would you tackle this? Any info appreciated. Thanks guys.

 

Paint pen.

 

first, you need to convert the rust to a paintable surface.

you'll need to carefully pick/wire brush the immediate surrounding area to be sure to expose all of the rust that might be under some of the paint yet.

then apply one of these

https://www.eastwood.com/por-15-gray-paint.html
https://www.eastwood.com/por-15-black-rust-paint.html

then follow with your favorite primer, and touchup paint.

 

For spots this small what type of pick or wire brush would you recommend? Thanks for the help

 

Not an autobody guy but this is what I did on mine and it's held up through two winters so far..

1. Use a paint scraper or a sharpened up pry bar to scrape the rust and a bit more back to bare metal. Like twice the diameter of what is rust right now should be bare metal and that much again should be scraped off paint so you get a smooth transition from untouched paint down to the bare metal.

2. Hit it with a few light coats of rust killing primer. Just krylon or tremclad is fine, matt black helps you see what you're doing. The more and the lighter the coats the better - you don't want it to run at all because that means it's too thick in one place and it won't cure properly. Just keep doing light coats unto you can't really tell where the edge of the hole is anymore. Toyota paint seems to be pretty thin these days so it shouldn't take too long lol..

3. Grab some 120 grit and a sanding block or small orbital sander and gently sand down the primer until you are taking off some of the surrounding clear coat.

4. Get some color matched paint from your favorite local parts place or automotive box store and again with the many light coats and sanding but this time sand with 120, then 180, then 240, then 400.

5. Spray some clear coat on it (and I'm sure you can guess, many light coats) and you're done. You can wet it and sand again with the 400 grit then wax and polish it if you really want to go all out. Mine's not exactly shiny anyway so I didn't bother with that.

You're probably going to have a hard time matching the paint because it's white. Sometimes it helps to spray some on a piece of card or something first just to make sure it's flowing right - I find white paint always seems to come out clear at first. Just keep layering it up until it looks good (I can't say it enough times - many light coats!)

Don't forget to tape off the glass

 

This is what I used to scrape it - use the bent end at like 90° to the body and drag it like it's your fingernail and you're scratching at a bug bite.

https://www.homedepot.ca/product/a-richard-lever-bar-scraper-10-inch/1000411146

 

Use rust converter or a small wire end on a Dremel (Or both). Once done use a paint pen and you are good to go. The rust is converted and won't continue to grow and the paint seal it up. Easy.

 

^what they said^

i personally would use a flat head precision screwdriver. but of note, i haven't actually done any rust repair yet, only doing my research to help my dad with his disappearing '14 f150 cab corners. i've also got an eastwood store locally, so some of this stuff is a little easier for me to acquire than other locations.

 

The fiber tip that comes on the paint correction pens usually works well for sanding the rust away in this situation. Then rust converter, then touchup paint.

 

paper punched sandpaper and super glue to Fresh pencil eraser

 

I agree with the top suggestion about cleaning, primer top coat, and then clear coat. Tape it off. But make the area large enough for blending. You’ll need to lightly sand some of that spray area. Don’t spray up to the tape or you will create a line. After a week polish and wax. Note those are likely stone chips. Look for others. Repair. That didn’t happen overnight. Damage to the body shouldn’t rust if you take car of your paint, wash regularly, polish wax,wax,wax every year. You will see the nicks early and save yourself from a spot repair. YouTube has some instructions for paint. Good luck

 

Some are saying to mask and paint the area. While that would certainly take care of the issue it might not match perfectly. Paint does fade over time, especially on the roof and hood, so even if you blend it you will probably notice the spot. A body shop or pro painter can adjust the paint to match the color on the truck. As a DIYer you probably cannot. If it was me, and considering those are just small rock chips, I would keep the paint work to the touch up pen.

 

You want easy? Sand paper on a pencil eraser to remove the rust then touchup paint. I think there are a good range of suggestions but this is easiest. If you do the whole sanding, primer, clear, buff it's going to cost you a lot and if you don't do it right the results are just as good as a simple sand job + touchup.

 

if it’s gone this long easy is likely the road to be taken

 

Thanks for all the help guys. Appreciate the responses.

 

The fiberglass end of a touch up paint bottle is designed for this. I would dab a little tiny bit of rust converter on each too if I was feeling like it but honestly I have just brushed the areas like that clean with a fiberglass chip brush (like the one on the bottle) and just painted over it more times than I can remember.

 

I fail to understand the “rust converter” recommendations. Just grind of sand off the rust and repaint. There are zillions of videos on YouTube.

 

Here’s my plan of action.

1. Use small pick to loosen and expose any rust beneath and around surface.
2. Follow with small dremel sanding bit on low speed to remove any leftover or deeper rust
3. Wipe area clean with alcohol let dry.
4. Apply an automobile primer of my choosing.
5. Apply Toyota/Lexus touch up paint code 040.

I don’t think Toyota uses a clear on superwhite 040 so I may forgo this step.

Confident this will get the job done and last for a while.

 

Take it to the body shop before you make a bigger mess and regret it. They can tackle it for a few $$ and make it look factory, IMO.

 

I think this is something I can handle. Besides it’s on the upper part of the windshield and fairly certain nobody could even notice it but myself and even if they could no big deal. As long as I prevent it from spreading I’m happy.