DIY: Fuel Filler Relocation for Fiberglass Bedsides (Glassworks) Write Up

After searching through various forums I couldn't find a definitive way to modify my fuel filler lines to fit my Glassworks bedsides so I decided to do a write up on the process. I took the suggestion from multiple threads about using the 4Runner filler neck in place on the stock one. Hopefully this clears up the issue for others looking for solution.
Note: I have a long bed so the short bed might be slightly different but the steps should be the same.
Ok let's get to it.

Here is the 4Runner part that is recommended to extend the filler tube to the port on in the bedsides, I was able to have my local Toyota dealer order it in, cost me $29 and some change with tax.
Part # 77213-35370




Here is how it looked before I got started, as you can see the filler hose was quite low compared to the fenders. It could be quite a pain to get the pump to stay put in the filler hose, especially in CA where they use the vapor recovery fillers.


First thing you need to do it remove the bracket holding all the pipes. 10mm to remove the main pipe, 12mm to remove the bracket from the truck.


Now due to age, weather, an plenty of other factors your bracket may break off when removing it from the truck. If it does don't worry it won't be necessary, if not even better you can reuse it.


Once the bracket is off you will be left with the main filler tube (the one we will be replacing) and two other tubes for venting/evap.


Next, it's time to loosen the first hose clamp on the main filler tube. I found that it was much easier to use a 10mm socket than a screwdriver due to the small area you have to work with. Once the clamp is off pull the nozzle pipe out from the tube, you'll be with the tube we will be swapping out. Here's a comparison of the stock tube with the replacement.




Now loosen the back hose clamp on the stock tube and pull it off. You'll be left with this.


After the stock hose is out, steal one of the hose clamps off of it, this will be used when put the new tube in. To make this easier for you since I ran into the issue already, the tube running to the evap system needs to be extended to have the nozzle holder reach the hole in the bedsides. Now don't worry the existing tube can just be rerouted to reach and no splicing or replacement tube will be necessary. Here you can see the black circular clip holding the tube running back to the evap system.


So you have two options here, you can cut the black clip being careful not to cut the tube, or you can push the tube back out through the clip. If you choose to push it back through the clip you'll need to remove the clamp from where the metal tube meets the rubber tube, it's easiest to use a pair of needle nose pliers due to the small space. Here's the end of the tube pushed up to the clip.


Once the tube is out of the clip you can pull it in front of the clip and then re-attach it to the metal filler tube. After, you can place the extra hose clamp on the filler neck end that goes to the tank, then slide the new filler neck on to the gas tank and on to the the metal filler tube. Once both ends of the filler neck are slid on to a stopping point, the tighten the hose clamps. Once that is done it should look like this.



At this point you are almost done, just time to place the nozzle filler side into the bedside. The bedside filler hole has a tight flexible rubber ring that you need to push the nozzle through the rubber ring. The nozzle filler has ridges that the rubber ring sits in to hold it steady. I added a ziptie to secure the nozzle filler ridges a bit more to ensure it doesn't ever get pulled back out.
Before:


After:


With ziptie:


Here is backside all put together.


Now you can reattach the bracket that was taken off in the beginning or in my case I used another ziptie to stabilize the tubes to the old bracket mount.

That's about it, now head out and fill it up. Works Great!


Oh and I recommend a locking gas cap since the door doesn't lock.


Obligatory helper pic

 

Great work OP!! Just a heads up, I thought you were selling something for some reason. Probably wouldn't hurt to put DIY: at the beginning

 

Thanks for the tip! Can't seem to find how to edit the title, can only edit the post. Any ideas?

 

Should be in the upper right! It'll say thread tools, or something like that

 

You're the man! Thanks!

 

Just have to say... thank you so much for this. I've been rolling for about a year... that part number made my day!

 

What about when you have duraflex bedsides and you dont have a fuel door in your bed side anymore

 

Then this probably wouldn’t work for you

 

Obviously not hahaha, just looking to see what alternatives people have done if there is no gas door. I am running mine through the bed.

 

I’d try making a thread in here, or just poking around the bs threads in there.

https://www.tacomaworld.com/forums/long-travel-suspension.113/

 

Question if op is still on here. I just did mine and it seems like from the pics we have the same problem. It seems like the Tacoma fuel line runs down to a point, then the new filler goes back up then back down. Have you had any issues with this or has it been all good?

 

You need to extend the evap hoses also

 

Through the miracle of email I am still here! So I removed the rusty U bracket and used some industrial zip-ties to hold it up a bit higher so it doesn't bend down as far but I have never had any issues filling up. The high pressure and gravity force all the fuel down to the tank no problem. I didn't extend my evap hoses and don't have any issue with them either, plenty of slack.

 

Awesome write up man! It helped a ton. I think I’ll try that. I haven’t had a chance to fill up yet and test it. Worse comes to worse I can always trim the Tacoma filler tube. Glad to hear you’re having no problems!

 

So I just extended everything using the 4 runner filler neck and I’m now having issues getting fuel in the tank after a second or 2 seconds it hits the top of the fuel filler any thoughts on what it could be?

 

Are any of the lines kinked? It sounds like air isn't escaping from the tank, so the fuel can't drain from the fill neck.

 

That’s what I was thinking but the vent lines aren’t kinked at all and when they were extended I used brand new fuel line there is a slight bend in the 4 runner fuel neck tho it’s old I got it from a friend so I’m gonna try and by a new one and hope that slight bend is the reason

 

Yeah sounds like a kink somewhere, you want to share some pictures? Maybe we can figure it out.
Part number is in my original post if that helps, only like $25 from my local dealer.

 

When I’m back at the truck I’ll take one and send it over I’m gonna call my local dealer when they open

 

My local dealer said 64$... California man