DIY, Brake fluid flush, 4x4 - TRD Off-Road with Speed Bleeders

If you're refering to me there's a lot of shadow in the bottle making it look darker than it was. Either way it was over due by age. Still a time consuming job but definitely easy for one person now.

 

An FYI for anyone that's looking into buying speedbleeders. I called Speedbleeders.com about a discount code if buying off their online website the nice lady there says to put in comments area of the online order>10% Discount and she would apply 10% discount to the order, I haven't done this BECAUSE I can get RUSSELL brand speed bleeders at a better cost and have found out thru this lady I was talking to that they Speedbleeders.com are the suppliers to RUSSELL and GOODRIDGE speed bleeders! So getting cheaper cost RUSSELL or GOODRIDGE brand bleeders is the same as the SPEEDBLEEDER.Com ones, Made in USA. Also she said that the DORMAN brand bleeders are Made in China.hope this info helps anyone looking into buying speed bleeders and saving a few bucks.

 

So, I used to really believe in this and had speed bleeders all around on my subaru... until one of them failed on a long trip. Took me a bit to figure out what was wrong. The bleeder was leaking and wouldn't hold pressure. Never used speed bleeders again, just bought my self a bleeder kit.

 

It leaked, even though you had the bleeder screwed all the way in? The pointed tip of the bleeder effectively shuts off flow once threaded in all the way. So what happened in your case?

 

I never investigated, just replace them and moved on. If you google it, others have had issues as well. It just wasn't something I was willing to compromise on, when a stock bleeder will never have a chance of leaking.

The bleeder has to seat correctly and threads have to seal, otherwise it can leak. The ball spring mechanism can get mucked up and fail. I've never had any kind of stock bleeder fail on me otherwise and it's just as easy to self bleed brakes with a bleeder kit.

 

A speed bleeder and a stock bleeder screw work identically as long as the screw it turned all the way in. You can see where the "point" will seat into the tapered entryway, blocking flow. The spring-loaded checkball inside the bleeder would have no function as long as the screw was seated fully.

 

only way I could see the speedbleeder leaking or failing is if the springball got stuck in the open position and did not close, I talked to a representative from speedbleeders.com about just this possible occurance and they say that when the bleeder is in the closed position screwed in the check valve cannot open and leak release brake fluid, I also asked about maybe routineually removing the bleeders and thoroughly cleaning the valve of possible gunk and they say that's unnecessary if you use the provided caps that will prevent gunk from entering the valve. I do believe crx7's story and its valid that these can leak and then become a serious issue on the road, because ive read some reviews where people have had leakages with them, there seems to be more people that like using them regardless of the possible issues, I guess you have to weigh in the pros and cons and percentages and make your own decision on them. https://youtu.be/wsoY6xaPoyo

 

what brand bleeders, are you sure you used the proper bleeder model prescribed for the Suburu.

 

so really a majority of people that are using these speed bleeders long term haven't had any issues as far as leaks or not performing as advertised is a small minority, this would be my only concern. im really looking for a fail safe long term solution to bleeding brakes because I cannot get reliable helper that I trust to pump/hold/pump/hold my brake pedal(sad) they are either too dumb or too lazy to trust. initially doing it the old way introduced a ton of air getting in my brakes because of the #2 brake pumper not communicating properly to the point I had to get it to a dealership for a power bleed.

 

Just carry some stock bleed screws in the glove compartment and you'll be fine. I was on the way back from Yellowstone, in the middle of nowhere, thus it was an issue. Got to an Autozone, picked up a new bleed screw, and I got home no issues from there. The fluid was clean, no rust, I am adamant about my vehicle maintenance. Maybe the seat got damaged or wore out. Who knows.

Plus, when they're new and have the sealant on them they bleed great, but as they wear and get older, they don't work that well as it sucks air in around the threads. I just prefer normal bleeders, oh and I bought these direct from speed bleeders. They weren't an off brand.

The subaru was nice, I miss it sometimes. 260 whp, awd, it was one of the best handling cars I ever had. It ate up winding mountain roads and would just rotate around a curve. However, it was never reliable. I was always working on it, one thing after the other. Sold it, as it just wouldn't start randomly and it wasn't a big enough camping vehicle with the kids and dogs and baby stuff, and it wasn't great for off road. Should have kept it as a second vehicle.. maybe.

 

Just did my ‘10 TRD OR without the speed bleed parts. Pretty painless, did have the same struggles with the fronts as others have had. Thanks OP

 

"Now you will have a difficult time seeing your next fluid 'flow', because your current fluid is already clear. " Just use the blue one time and the clear the next time - blue the next time - then clear etc, etc - problem solved.

 

You might re-read the 5th para of my post, where I said

'I used to change mine between ATE SuperBlue and Gold, so I knew when the old was out...........'

5 year old threads are fun, right?

 

@Crom

Thanks, did this today, worked perfect.

 

Resurrection of an old thread, but did the 639579 and 639560 fit your ‘11 Taco?

 

Any chance this procedure will work with a 2wd 2015 TRD offroad prerunner? If not can someone point me the direction of a similar thread. Iv been looking but this is the only one that pops up. Thanks in Advance

 

Got my Speed Bleeders in the mail yesterday. One set for the bike, one set for the truck. Installed and bled the rears on the truck last night. Going to install and bleed the fronts this morning. They seem to work well. Should have bought a different color brake fluid to make it more definitive. I flushed about half a quart through the rear so far.

I would have went with the Mityvac method for convenience but it doesn't look like anyone makes the adapter cap that fits the gen 2 tacomas anymore. Heard to many mixed opinions about the generic adapter. Also horror stories of blown lines and brake fluid spraying over everything...

 

Cap that fits tacoma.

https://www.tooldiscounter.com/product/power-probe-toyota-small-brake-bleeder-adapter-pprba10

 

Thanks, I actually found that site this morning after posting. I emailed them for a shipping cost to Canada and they want $55 USD just for shipping. $105 for an adapter cap seems ridiculous. I think I'll stick with my Speed Bleeders.

 

I agree, not worth the cost. My method is clear vinyl tubing and a 32oz clear plastic bottle.