DIY: Always on 12VDC outlet(s) (cigarette lighter) in the glove box

12VDC outlets in the truck are great. When growing up, I would have never expected that we'd plug so much into the dang cigarette lighter. Unless I am somehow missing something, the 2nd gen has only two outlets, whereas my 1st gen had two down low and the cigarette lighter itself.

Tonight, out of boredom on a rainy night, my son and I decided to mod my 2nd gen in a similar way to what I previously did to my 1st gen.

The Frustration: Need to leave phone in truck to charge while engine is off. Happens to me all the time.

In my first gen, I wired two of the factory 12VDC outlets straight to the battery. Tonight, we decided to leave the 2nd gen factory connections alone (as they work fine when the truck is running), and instead, add a couple of new outlets in the glove box.

Why the glove box? It conceals the iPhone or iPad when left charging in the truck. Also, a little 12VDC in the glove box could be helpful in the future for a carputer, inverter or whatever. In the photos, you'll see that I have a Bluetooth module already in the glove box. There are also A/V inputs for my head unit (old Kenwood DNX-7120 relocated from my 1st gen). For me, the glove box has become a place to stash electronics, etc. You might would pick a different place in the truck.

Budget: $0. Also, we live in the middle of nowhere and I wasn't going to drive to get parts. We used stuff we had here. You could do it for less than $10 or $20 if careful.

Anyway, this is how we did it. Suggested improvements are welcome.

Step 1:
For the outlets, we started with a Belkin 12VDC splitter that was left over from when I drove an old Chevy S10. I picked it up years ago at AutoZone or Walmart or somewhere. You'll see it disassembled in the photos. It was held together was a single Phillips head screw. The plug assembly held a 5A fuse. I kept the fuse for use in the new circuit. I cut the wires loose from the terminals in the assembly and stripped the wires back.

Step 2:
We disconnected both battery terminals as we would have to do this to make the connections.

Step 3:
We chose 12 gauge stranded THHN (because I had it here). I am sure that there is a better wiring solution to use. However, I knew that it would carry the ampacity (<5A) and it's said to be gas and oil resistant. We ran the wires from the battery through the firewall, under the dash and to the glove box. We did not disassemble the dash in any way. We came up, over, and into the glove box. We happened to have red and black wires. Not bad to keep it color coded that way for DC circuits.

Step 4:
We used an inline fuse on the positive lead, left in the engine compartment. This could have also been put inside the cab, under the dash. Turns out there was an inline fuse holder under my dash from something the previous owner was trying to do. He had a 30A fuse and was also using THHN. Instead, I used the 5A fuse I removed from the Belkin splitter.

Step 5:
In the glove box area, we pulled the glove box down by disconnecting the cylinder on the right side and pushing in the sides slightly. If you've never done this, you'll figure it out if you change the cabin air filter. Behind the glove box, we connected the pos and neg leads to the outlets from the Belkin splitter using wirenuts and electrical tape. I suggest using better connectors for stranded wire, but again, I wasn't driving to get them. I may improve the connection later.

Step 6:
We decided that we'd run pos and neg all the way back to the battery. The neg ended up connected to the frame pretty close to the battery where the battery is grounded to the frame. The pos ended up connected to the pos battery terminal. We put fork type connectors on both wires and slid them under bolts. The one of the pos post of the battery was very tight so we used an impact driver to loosen it. No big deal. Don't forget to tighten down the battery cables when you're finishing up.

Step 7:
We tested the outlets. In the pictures, you'll see a couple of 12VDC usb adapters. I have one that charges an iPhone or something similar. I have another that will do 2.1 amps to charge an iPad. It has two USB ports (one rated at 2.1 amps and another rated for less). Unless I do something crazy, I should always be under 5 amps.

Tools:

• Phillips screwdriver
• Various needlenose pliers
• Metric socket set (for battery connections). 10mm and 12mm used here
• Wire strippers/cutters
• Flashlights, etc.

Materials:

• Belkin or similar 12VDC outlet splitter (provides two outlets)
• 12 gauge THHN wire (or something rated for auto use).
• fork type connectors (crimp on type)
• Wire connectors (we used wire nuts, but find something better)
• Electrical tape
• Buss type fuse holder.
• 5A or 10A fuse. We reused the one from the Belkin

Here's something to consider: Your fuse should be sized based on the gauge wire you use. The thicker the wire (diameter), the more ampacity it can handle. Think of a a pipe. The bigger the diameter, the more the flow. Visit http://www.the12volt.com for specifics for auto wiring. I am more versed in building wiring (AC circuits).

Another thing to consider: I will probably go back and add a switch. The previous owner modified one of the blanks for the left of the wheel with a momentary switch which he later abandoned. However, I'd need a toggle switch. I found out tonight that the other blank actually has a modular plug connected to the back of it. Wondering what that is since it goes no where. My post about it later.

Your suggestions for improvement are welcome. I thought about different ways to mount the outlets. Maybe you have better ideas. Also, any ideas for a toggle switch would be helpful.

 

Thank you so much! What a great, throughly covered post! Thank you for your time ♡

You are raising you son right too, sounds like!