Dirt King LCAs- stock replacement

I recently found a sweet deal on some stock replacement dirt king LCAs. I currently have 2.5 Kings with resi and adj and JBA high caster UCAs. I recently replaced the whole drivers side LCA and now my passenger side ball joint is failing. I’ve contemplated LT for awhile but I drive my truck around 60 miles a day.

In order to avoid all the maintenance of a full LT set up I think I’m going to buy these lightly used stock replacement Dirt King LCAs. My question is am I going to regret this? I’ll be replacing the spindles with some weld on gusset spindles so my front will be a pretty solid mid travel set up.

Also will I eventually be able to upgrade my axels and go to a 35 or 37 inch tire down the road without issues? I understand I’d need the proper offset rims and a lot of cutting but ultimately my end goal. Any and all advice appreciated. Thanks fam!

-Dirty Dave
Truck is a 2008 trd off road 4x4

 

Did you end up getting the DIRT King LCA’s? I literally have the same set up with High Caster JBA’s also. I was also looking at getting the stock length DK lca’s but wasn’t sure if it’s worth the money.
If you installed them, did they get you more clearance?

 

I did end up getting them and rebuilt my front end in the process. I got a extra two inches of droop but clearance got a little better. I didn’t end up measuring but happy to run to the truck and do so, was more for peace of mind knowing I can replace the uniball pretty easily if I need (just a snap ring). Ended up with about 4 degrees of caster so was pretty happy with it all. Kind of wishing I long traveled saying I replaced everything but hope it helps staying mid travel on narrow trails. I’d say worth it for me but most people may benefit from keeping the stock LCAs.

They were kind of a pain to get the old LCAs off but easy going on. Ended up doing: new wheel hubs, bearings, seals (spindle and diff), CVJ axles, spindle gussets, cam tab gussets. I have some extra spindles laying around if you are interested in them. Happy to answer any questions you have.

 

I have them on two of my yotes and have been super happy so far, these are the uni ballers looks like they swapped to ball joints now kinda interesting... My 4runner took a hard hit at speed and bent a lot of crap but the lower control was fine and I drove it 50+ miles to pavement where it got on a flatbed for 100 miles back to civilization. There are a few guys on here that have destroyed factory lower tacoma control arms where the ball joint is connected kinda scary! I also am fixing to run 35's so after seeing their carnage this seems like a no brainer if you don't plan on going the long travel route. Pic below of the turd runner after she met a big rock that decided to anchor itself in the sand plus a little too heavy on the gas pedal ... I honestly wonder if it would have made it out on the stock lower control arms kinda have my doubts.


upload images

 

I am debating these versus new OEM arms versus Total Chaos stock length replacements.

Truck currently has Icons 2.5s and a TC upper arm. Lowers have the usual issues (100k on the LBJs, one has a blown boot, alignment cams seized).

No plans on going LT. I don't want the width (trail truck) nor do I want the custom length axle issues that come along with LT.

Would love to stay TC but there is a ~$600 price difference that I am trying to justify.

 

One thing to keep in mind if you do go the stock replacement route (TC or DK) vs OEM is you really should do Cam Tab Gussets, which is another $150 in parts. The stock ones are crap and even if you don’t upgrade I’d for sure consider it.

I don’t regret doing it but it is a lot of money you might consider putting elsewhere into the truck. I kept a eye out for a long time on some used ones and found some used from a guy doing a SAS and got them for around $1000. The new DKs are a new Moog ball joint vs uni-ball so only time will tell what one is better. I have the uni ball ones and haven’t had any issues with them but sounds like the ball joint tracks better for steering. TC replacements for sure stand out better than the DK ones just don’t think it’s worth $600 for chromoly... DK lowers are beefy as hell.

I had a hell of a time getting my LCAs off the truck (one at 125k and another at 135k) we ended up cutting off the whole arm to get to where we could get a good angle on the bolt (photo below)

 

Good advice for sure.
I had planned on doing both the tab and spindle gussets along with whatever arm and I already figure it is going to take chopping crap off to get the stock arms off.

Thing is, I gotta do something since I doubt the truck can be aligned as it sits due to the LBJ wear and the cams being frozen.
If I gotta deal with all of it, might as well make it better.....stronger....faster.

 

What spindle gussets did you use? Any problems when doing the install of them?
Nice looking front setup.

 

They are the total chaos spindle/cam tab gussets. All weld on. No issues really besides being a idiot and putting my axle seals in backwards on the drivers side twice lol. The bushing was seized in both my lowers so had to chop them off to cut the bolt. Pretty much all plug and play.

 

Old thread refresh in response to @RUMHAM1 i am running almost same setup as you. Bil 6112s are the only difference. Just installed DK lowers (ball joint version) the other day and took to get aligned at a highly praised off road vehicle specific shop and tech said he could only get my caster to 2deg. Saying something or other about the arms not being aggressive enough or designed well. Wasn’t clear to me which arms he was referencing. I should’ve got clarity but i was exhausted after working a 12hr shift and was craving a cold beer and rest. Come to find this thread with you achieving 4deg caster with the same upper and lower arms i am running. I’m new to all this so wondering if I’m missing the mark on something. Any info or insights are welcomed. Thank you TW, I wouldn’t have been able to do half the things I’ve done without you all.

 

Did you get the JBA high caster UCAs or the stock replacement ones? The high caster ones should easily get you to 3 degrees plus. Either that or your tie rods or cam bolts are seized causing the alignment to be a issue. I’ve got my truck aligned countless times without issue. Possible the alignment tech didn’t know what they were doing but you would think with a decent shop it would be pretty easy!

 

@RUMHAM1 i did get the Standard duty high caster arms. Not the “oem replacements.” What is your ride/lift height? I believe mine is sitting borderline 3” I may need to move the clip down a notch. Would lift height limit caster adjustment? Possible the tie rod ends could be a limiter as well. I’m actually changing those out tomorrow. The originals have almost 140k on em.

 

you need aftermarket uca to go along with your DK lca to achieve the full caster

 

i have jba uca high caster arms.