Diode Dynamics SSC2s with OEM Switch

Hey all,

I picked up a set of DD SSC2 ditch lights w/backlight I'm planning to install on my 2020 with an OEM ( AirOnBoard ) switch. Now, my wiring knowledge is pretty dismal and I've scoured threads but never got an answer that I necessarily understood so any help would be appreciated.

Here's the harness diagram and instructions:

Wire Colors:

• Blue: Backlight
• Red: Power In
• Yellow: Main Beam

METHOD TWO - Use OEM Upfitter/Auxiliary Switches. An extra wire pigtail is included
with this harness, which should be used if you plan to control your lights with factory-installed
“OEM” switches. At the white connector, unplug the switch wires from the harness, and
connect the extra pigtail here instead. Using the butt connectors at the end of the pigtail,
crimp the yellow wire and blue wire to OEM Auxiliary Switch wire leads. The yellow wire will
activate the main LED power, and the blue wire will activate the backlight LED power

Here's the switch diagram:


So my current focus is just to get the main beam working with the switch. The backlight function is cool and all but I got these to shine bright. It would be nice to just have it on all the time or I've heard you can wire it into the headlight circuit so them come on with drl/headlights.

Anyways...I'm trying to have the switch be as OEM as possible ( switch backlight only turns on with parking lights/headlights and ditch lights turn off when the truck is off )

I've been able to wire other lights but considering this only has a single wire coming to the switch instead of the usual 3, I'm kinda of at a loss. I'm assuming the wiring will be something like this:
Black -> Interior grounding point
Blue -> Add a circuit to tails fuse
Red -> Yellow from harness
Green -> Tapped into a 12v source (No idea how to do this)

Does anyone know how to accomplish this?

( please dumb down everything as much as possible )

 

To make the switch as factory as possible and avoid cutting into wire harness, I purchased a daisy chain illumination harness from Caliraised. It plugs into the factory cargo light and branches off so you can connect to your switch.
as far as the backlight' I am clueless to that- in fact I have some SSC2 I am going to wire up soon as backup lights, but I don't plan to use the backlight function...yet.
I assume I only need to connect the 2 wires to power and ground, and just secure the other 2? we'll find out I guess.

 

tapping the kit pigtail into the OEM switch harness should be relatively straightforward if you know which wire is which in the OEM switch connector; removing the butt connector and using a T-tap onto the switch output wire would get you there. You could probably also just connect the blue wire to the same one (or tap it to the yellow wire) and you'll get the backlight on with the main light.

One thing to consider with having any part of your ditch lights coming on along with either the headlights or DRL, is that driving on roads with anything other than marker lights lit might be illegal if they're mounted higher than your headlights depending on where you're at (and where you might take your truck on road trips). If you wanted to get a bit more complicated with the wiring, you could also consider hooking up the backlights to run with the blinkers, which cops most likely won't bother you about, especially if they're amber in color (lots of production cars these days have extra turn lights on the side mirrors).

 

Thanks for the replies everyone! I like the idea of the daisy chain harness which would make adding my other switches a little easier in the future.

I'm now wondering, what if I didn't use the accessory pigtail and instead just the original connector. This way, I could use the red wire from the harness to supply the 12v power to the switch.

Another question, can I just tap the backlight wire directly into a fuse to come on with the lights? It sounds sketchy but I feel like that could work.

 

If you're using a factory-wired switch, there's already going to be a "supply" connection to that switch, unless you're looking to have the ditch lights usable without the key in the ignition. It might also backflow into the vehicle wiring and run power to other switches or components which are meant to only be powered when the ignition is on; best case all you'll end up doing would be to increase the "parasite" drain and reduce the length of time you can park the truck without driving it and not kill the battery.

I've wired certain after-market switches/relays directly to the battery, but I wouldn't take any chances with splicing a full-time-hot wire into any of the factory wiring.

You could use an "add-a-fuse" or tap the backlight activation wire into any "switched" circuit if you want the backlight to be on whenever the ignition switch is at on/acc or if the truck is running if you wanted that, but you'll have literally no way to turn them off without killing the engine, which might not be ideal. It would probably be better to run that connection through some kind of rocker or toggle switch in case you have some reason to want or need them off at some point.

 

I think I'll probably end up wiring the backlight to a separate switch but figured going right to a fuse for know until I can get an additional switch.

Also, just came across this video for a 4Runner: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=OoxPrs4Hdcw where they just cut the wires going to the harness switch and route them to a dual switch. Think I can follow the same concept and just split the power in to go to two AOB switches. A dual switch would be ideal but I'm not sure if anyone sells one that mimics an OEM switch as much as AOB.

 

try cruiserheads.

ch4x4.com

they make single and dual switches to fit factory knockouts on most models/generations of Toyotas as well as "carling" style rocker switches. In some cases, you can also choose whether you want "serious" or "novelty" switch markings, and whether you want to add some additional USB charging ports to one of your blank spots, if you have any.

 

You have the lights and DD harness already it sounds like? That plug that connects "A" to "E", can you get a pic? There are alot of ways to wire these, but if you wanted to keep it splice free, I could probably help you there.

That is how I did mine. But my truck is a pretty good example of "How complicated can you make something?"

 

Here ya go

Yeah I don't mind fuse tap or connectors but I'd rather not have to cut into any factory wiring...however, if that's needed then so be it. After seeing the turn signal function I think I want it that way haha.

 

Let me look into that plug and see what I can cook up