Diesel Heater in Packout Build

Just thought I'd share my diesel heater build, what all I used, and what I would probably do differently. Bought an 8kw Hcalory diesel heater kit that I wanted to fit in one of those rolling packout kits so that everything (gas container, electrical cords, vent tubing, etc) would be able to be stored inside it when transporting. Everyone makes the "briefcase" style builds with cases you can buy from Harbor Freight for around $60. But with those you have the gas canister mounted on the outside. I wanted any potential leak or slosh during transport to be contained, and this would also help protect the canister from damage.


Decided to go with the DeWalt box over other brands because of where the ridges and curves were allowed easier placement for parts and cutting into it. Picked it up for $89 (after a coupon) reg. $119.


The gas tank that came with the kit (albeit a nice 10L large tank) still would not fit inside such a large box. Contemplated mounting it to the outside, but it would defeat the purpose of my "all-internal" large box idea. So I ordered a smaller 5L tank off Amazon, along with a fuel tank standpipe to not have to drill in then bottom of the tank.


Shaved down very minimal plastic to make the tank sit flush with the back wall. Fastened the tank to the box, cut hole in the side for exit mounting plates (MUST use aluminum, not plastic/PVC adapters because of heat).
***Note: pictured location of fuel lifter installed through the cap would not work. Realized Id have to twist the cap off when refilling, which would require unhooking the attached gas line. Later drilled new location just under cap.


What took the longest time was figuring out how to mount the actual heater unit where it needed to be. Of course you're given a mounting plate, but how to support that in the middle of the box was the biggest challenge. Using a bunch of scrap wood I had lying around I eventually made a box that would support the unit at the correct height and also contain any exhaust heat from the rest of the box.


Cut the exhaust pipe to the appropriate length with a cutoff wheel to meet the location where the thru-hull exhaust (ordered off amazon) exit would mount. Cut the smooth connection end in half to use as a sleeve connector. Put some cuts in the end to fracture it, pinched the tabs flat with some pliers, and shoved this end within the sleeve to make it fit. These connections would later be cemented with Permatex Muffler & Tailpipe sealer (also amazon).


Finished the exhaust by wrapping it with black exhaust wrap and spraying that with hi-temp silicone spray per wrap instructions.


Moved electrical harness over from right side to left side, simply by opening cover, unscrewing ECU, routing wires underneath, and swapping the plug from the left to the right. Its obviously made to do this so no other holes need to be cut or modified to do this.


Screwed a piece of scrap wood to the underside of the lid to attach the monitor. Used the plastic mounting plates i initially ordered for the intake side. Used 2 Pin waterproof bulkhead connector for power connection, 14AWG - 10 ft cable with the male side of that 2 Pin connector soldered to one side and a 20amp fused DC cig style connector on the other end. ***DC would later be problematic.
Note: new location of lifter connection on gas tank below cap.

Lastly, not shown: created a plank to attach the fuel filter and fuel pump to against the side wall. Also cut some short lengths of the included vent tubing to connect the heater unit to the bulkheads with pipe clamps. Also purchased fuel cap vent cap to screw into gas cap. That way it can be closed during transport and twisted open when in use to allow air transfer.


ELECTRIC ISSUE: When using this setup plugged into the DC of my Bluetti AC180, it would shut down due to an "Inconsistent Power Supply" issue per the automated shutdown procedure. The brief jump close to 15amps wasnt the issue; it was the wattage of just over 200 watts for a few seconds that was causing the ECU to shut down. FIX: instead of resoldering an AC connection, I ordered a 250W DC to AC converter (once again from Amazon). This allowed the spike to be handled and finally got the unit running properly.


SHOWN: not only does this setup hold the unit and gas tank, im able to fit the vent hose that routes to the tent, 3" to 4" connector for the outside of the box, power wires, & CO2 monitor all within the box.


CONCLUSION: would I go this route again? Probably not. Spent way too much time and money collecting parts and manufacturing this product to "save space". Hcalory's new SS2 model pretty much does a similar thing. You just dont get the added room for the accessories or the wheels. I'd probably buy that and a backup diesel Rotopak.

*I will upload videos when I figure out how to convert them to upload here.

 

Looks good. Hope it works well.

I've been trying to do the same. I bought an hcalory heater prefab and it arrived DOA. Threw a temp sensor/motherboard error code. At least the weather is getting warmer. Perhaps I'll give it another try next year

 

is it still a packout build when using toughsystem 2.0 components?

 

Sorry, is "Packout" a brand specific copyright? Didnt realize. Everytime I talk about a "packout build" everyone has always assumed I meant any kind of rolling, stackable tool kit. So I just went with that. Theres like 10 brands out there nowadays all doing the same thing.

 

just giving you sh!t about it

i don't know that the brands can figure it out themselves!

 

Looks good. I like the compactness of having everything in one container. I used a HF metal toolbox for mine and turned the heater sideways so the exhaust and ignition air inlet ports stuck out the sides and not the bottom. Then I put the whole unit on the ground and used a separate small 1-gallon outboard motor fuel can with snap on fuel line connectors for the diesel fuel supply. This worked out well until the all in one units started coming out, then I switched to one of those. I don’t like how they set the hot exhaust port on the bottom though, it would have been nice if it was also to the side so I could place it on my plastic covered tailgate. I put it on the ground instead now and use a long drier hose to pipe the heated air to our RTT.

 

Yeah, I think its crazy how theyll do stuff like that, or have a clamp on the side of the box to insinuate that you should route the exhaust upwards, which clearly is a no-no.
What HF box were you referring to? Have any pics of it still?

 

This is the box I used from - there’s enough room to store the fuel lines, pump, drier hose and exhaust and air intake pipes and controller in it too. I’ll post pics soon.