Did I get the right lug nuts - Method Wheels?

I didn't look at the part of the lug nut that contacts the wheel before Discount Tire put them on the truck...

The receipt shows:
LK-W56015SEB ET

The photo on the site shows:


Shouldn't the base look like this:


I guess there's probably no real way to know other than going out there and taking one off to look at it at this point...

EDIT: Update
Crisis averted.
I removed a lugnut just to make sure, and they are the correct ones (and ET).

I think the reason I was confused is...

I spent a lot of time working at a Ford garage in my younger days - so I have a pretty good idea of what a lug nut "looks" like.
The first thing I did when I got this box of lugnuts - was open them to count and make sure there was (at least) 24.
Nothing caught my eye as being "awkward" about the lug nuts (despite the fact that, to me, these are very awkward lug nuts, compared to what I'm used to).
But when they gave me my 24 lug nuts back after swapping to these black ET ones...the chrome ones looked "odd" to me (the extra part on the tapered end)...
So I immediately came home and googled the part that I got, and I saw those (pictured in OP)....and started panicking that I got the wrong lugnuts installed on my vehicle.

I should have known better because the guy I go to is a Tacoma guy...so he would have probably picked up if something was off anyway.
Anyway, at least I have a really nice Craftsman 20-250 lb 1/2 inch torque wrench, that I've always wanted now.

 

Those are correct. The ET is extended thread so it grabs more of the stud. The conical part of the lug nut that seats on the wheel is the same in both pictures

 

Ahh so you're saying the "ET" part (which is not pictured on their site) is that extra little part that comes out from the seat

 

Yup the ET part is not included on their picture

 

OK I feel a little better. I'm probably going to still take one off to look at it before I go on a highway anyway.

 

I use the same style (gorilla) lug nuts on my wheels. Gives me that extra peace of mind knowing it’s grabbing onto more threads. I think most people would recommend the ET version

 

It seems to me that if the hole in the wheel isn't big enough for the extended portion to go inside, then you're not really gaining more thread engagement. The 9SIX9 wheels got for my truck don't leave a lot of thread to grab but the lug holes aren't big enough for the extended part to go inside and grab more threads. I even counted the number of turns until the lug hits the wheel with regular and ET style and there was no real difference. Now I'm trying to decide whether to get longer studs or drill the wheels.

 

Crisis averted.
I removed a lugnut just to make sure, and they are the correct ones (and ET).

I think the reason I was confused is...

I spent a lot of time working at a Ford garage in my younger days - so I have a pretty good idea of what a lug nut "looks" like.
The first thing I did when I got this box of lugnuts - was open them to count and make sure there was (at least) 24.
Nothing caught my eye as being "awkward" about the lug nuts.
But when they gave me my 24 lug nuts back after swapping to these black ET ones...the chrome ones looked "odd" to me (the extra part on the tapered end)...
So I immediately came home and googled the part that I got, and I saw those (pictured in OP)....and started panicking that I got the wrong lugnuts installed on my vehicle.

I should have known better because the guy I go to is a Tacoma guy...so he would have probably picked up if something was off anyway.
Anyway, at least I have a really nice Craftsman 20-250 lb 1/2 inch torque wrench, that I've always wanted now.

 

I'd say that if the hole in the wheel isn't big enough for that extended part - you're in for a world of hurt if you use an ET lug nut - because the taper on the lug nut should seat into the taper of the wheel...so like you say - you either need non-extended or drill...and I don't think I'd be keen on drilling into the seat of a set of wheels for extra threads. I think I'd go the route of longer studs - which kinda sucks because they're not always easy to get out of the wheel bearing assembly.

I saw a thread where a rep from Method (or maybe a licensed salesman anyway) said that 7 threads are required for optimal torque to be held by the lug nut safely. So (I am not a professional), but check and see if you can engage 7 threads before the lug nut contacts the wheel...and if you do, you're probably just good as is.

 

I was taught the nut must engage at least the as many threads as the stud is wide. So for our 12mm diameter studs you'd need 12mm of threads caught which is about 8 turns given our thread pitch is 1.5mm. I've done a bunch of reading and guys are using a bridge reamer bit to open the holes about 1/8" to use the ET lugs. I've gotta sit down with my vernier caliper, the set of ET lugs I've got, and one of my wheels to see what's what.

 

Yeah it's gotta be a pretty precise "machining" - because not wide enough and one could begin to question how much extra force is being needed to turn the lug nut (AKA is 83 lb-ft really 83 lb-ft)...too much and you compromise the integrity of the wheel unnecessarily ...well I guess any time you drill into something you're compromising its integrity anyway.

 

which model did u get? I just ordered a set

 

The best prices I have found on the ET Spline drive lug nuts have been from WheelersOffroad. The nice thing is they sell them in qty. of 4, 20 and 24. Nice to have a some spares.