Dealer over tightened oil filter housing drain plug

first off I should have just done the last change myself after all the skidplate bolt issues, but I thought hey, it free so I'll make the, do it.

Took it to a local dealer rather than the normal Boone dealership for oil service and they broke the weld on a fixed skidplate nut and never said boo, I checked it when I got home and gave them up the road for letting me drive off the lot without notifying me.

Changing the oil today and the oil housing drain plug will not remove and it turns the whole housing. I cannot remove the plug to change the bottom o ring which I don't guess is a big deal unless you remove the plug.

Looking at replacement housing it will be about 25-30ish to replace, but I think the dealer should replace the whole housing since it is under warranty.

How big of a stink do I have to make in order to get them to replace the part? What do I have to do to prove that their dealer f up the part?

 

Forgot to mention the tab looked bent and to include pics.

 

Unless you have a really cool dealer I doubt they will cover it, they will just blame you for the canister being screwed up.

 

Had the same problem. One tab was broke and it was extremely tight. Breaker bar did the trick.

 

Replace it with the metal one.
Go get a reimbursement for it at dealer. Plus oil.
They have the most lowest end techs doing that stuff.

I had them forget to put a seal back on a drain plug which I supplied Mobil1 once on a car.
Leaked all over the driveway. That oil is $$$.
50 dollar certificate for parts, replaced oil and did it right, and they came out and cleaned my driveway lol.

Had a white Tundra last year that oil was all over the bottom skid and blew back over the chassis from drive home on freeway. Paw prints all over the damm vehicle. I was pissed.

Inspect your vehicle BEFORE you leave I have learned.

 

I upgraded to the aluminum, got one of these

Genuine Toyota 15620-31060 Oil Filter Cap Assembly

$22 Toyota Genuine Parts - Cap Assy, Oil Filter (15620-31060)

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B008BHP68A/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_rc9BAbCA6EW3F

 

That was the type of canister I was looking at. If they will reimburse the cost for that it would be perfect.

Do you think it would beneficial to call Toyota corporate? Had the tsb for the transmission done fast after that call

 

I would try to handle it at the local level first.

 

I seen a metal one with a fumoto valve for Taco's on this site some where, not sure where that link is.

 

Haha literally just went through this this past weekend... I was Youtubing how to take a damn oil filter drain off which was pathetic! I thought it might have been counter turned since it wouldn't move. Realized the dealership probably just over tighten and had to dump oil all over my skids and street... stupid new filter housings.

 

Went with the Baxter spin on adapter and now just use a normal filter. Much better than dealing with the canister. No o-rings to replace ever again.

 

The other week I had to use a breaker bar to get the canister off! I'm happy my free service is over! DIY is the best way!

 

https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads...lter-housing-with-fuomoto-drain-valve.522739/

 

I replaced mine after the 2nd oil change with an aluminum one and will be coming up on my 25k last service under the 2 year service agreement, but they won’t be changing the oil only rotating the tires and checking fluids..

 

thanks splitbolt, at least some of us can research better !! nice !

 

Try an impact wrench, the knocking may help separate it.

 

My input:
- you want free, you get free and will cost you more later.
- when I see somebody wearing gloves for on oil change as owner it tells me how much experience and how many time has done it.
- trash that plastic junk canister and get an aluminum one.
- get a good canister removing tool with 4 contact points.
- make sure you put oil on the new gasket O rings to prevent them from binding and ripping off.
- do not over-tight the canister or the bottom plug, in last turn it takes 1/10 turn to go from 0 to tight.

 

does this mean that wearing gloves makes you inexperienced, or the other way around? I could see arguments for both sides.

 

I wear Nitrile Gloves, tired of years of chemicals and substances getting on my hands.

 

Inexperienced.
Oil is not going to burn your skin, give you cancer, loose your hair, stain your hand. I use bare hands and get very little on skin if you know how to do it.
Unless you work as mechanic and under/over cars all day long, I see no need for gloves (unless from heavy leather to protect hand from cuts and scratches). Blue gloves is an indication of somebody that is watching YT videos or the local mechanic and gives it a try.
When you have changes oils for 30 years in more cars than remember, gloves are an impediment and in the way.
But then again, I have seen "men" using gloves to put bait on the hook when fishing...