DC Power Engineering h.o. alternator issues

So, since I got the DC Power engineering alternator, the lower alt adjuster bracket/arm has cracked and broke at the same point. Right where the bolt tightens up. When I initially installed the new alt, I thought the spacer they used was not supposed to be there as it was too tight a fit. I ended up taking it out (was a bitch as it was pressed in) but then it was too loose and the alt didnt sit flush with the lower alt adjustment bracket. So i put it back in and actually got it to pop into place, and tightened her down. I thought that maybe the original one just had a stress point on it and failed because of that, and purchased a brand new oem one from the dealer. Yet she has broke again.. I'm wondering if anyone else has had this problem. Just to see if it's the actual bracket itself, or specific to my setup only... I may try to remove the alternator and get a random spacer from ace hardware that is a tiny bit smaller than the one DC put in.. But I'm also wondering if it may just be me, tightening down the nut a tad too much. I mean, I dont put a death grip on there but, any idea what the torque should be on this nut? As you can see there's not a lot of room left on that nut. I actually used a nylock as the previous bolt fell out on me on the road. But since the DC alt is wider and utilizing the spacer to fit that lower adjustment arm, I would have assumed they'd provide a longer bolt as well. But seeing as how its a special adjustment bolt, I can see why not too. So idk what to do. Maybe try bending the adjustment arm? heat it up a tad and bend it ever so slightly? If I do that, I'm afraid I'll weaken it and it'll just break again. Or maybe just remove the spacer on the alt and tighten down the adjustment bracket to make up for the spacer. But then it'll be wedged at an angle and cause stress and probly break again anyways!! ha..

 

Have you talked with the company that made the alt? They should have some input since it is their product that is damaging your stock part.

 

Not yet. But I will asap. Discovered this yesterday and they were closed. I work all day today, and nights rest of week so I'm asleep while they're open. Will try email. But they never responded to an email I sent a long time ago regarding some questions I had after the install on a different topic. Otherwise I'll get up early one day and call. I will try to sneak in a call today while I'm at work. But hard to without interruptions.

I also just realized, that my alt belt was loose recently and I tightened it up quite a bit. Maybe too much. But I still wouldn't have thought that'd be enough to break that bracket. I'm thinking it's just that spacer being the issue. There's not enough contact of a flat surface on that bracket. So if all else fails, I'll try to take that spacer out and tweak that bracket a lil if I can. Maybe bolt that to the alternator first, then bolt on the other end that goes to the block second. See if that helps.

 

What is that bracket made of? Aluminum? Pot metal? Doesn't seem like a steel bracket could break that easily.

 

I think it's pot metal.. I wonder if I could get someone to fab a steel one for me. No idea who could though.

I think what I'll do, is order up a new bracket, and use some large thick washers and take that spacer out. To give it more surface area to cover on that bracket. As I think that's the problem. Too much force applied to such a small area and its causing it to crack. Idk. I'll call dc too anyways. See what they have to say. Maybe someone else has experienced this too.

 

Without seeing more of it sounds like pulley mis alignment, serpentine belt i assume..

 

for me, that bottom screw that attaches the alternator to the bracket wont stop spinning..its tight.. but it wont stop spinning.

thought it was weird..ive been driving it like that for awhile.. all good so far

 

Without taking it apart, here's a couple pics i found online. Was hard to find as it doesn't list it anywhere but dealers. And it's called a "cooling fan adjust bar" or "3.4 fan belt" on a different site. Stupid... But I don't think it's a misalignment issue. I think I just tightened the belt too much, and torqued the nut too much. And on mine, it's a nut, not a bolt. The bolt that goes through has a piece in the back the the adjuster bolt goes into and it slides on that bar as you tighten/loosen it. There's also the top bolt for the alternator itself, called the pivot bolt I believe. so that bottom bolt should not spin, unless the adjuster bolt is missing as that's what holds it in place from spinning.. Idk. Like I said I think it's a combination of things like the poor surface area the nut/bolt has on the bracket.

 

as far as I know that's a hardened metal part and can those be brittle if you over tighten the shit out of it. that definitely looks like a stress fracture and the point of compression.

I also wouldn't overlook a belt vibration causing it, have you carefully checked for out of round pulleys?

 

No I haven't. But I think it's most likely me over tightening it that bottom nut.. It happened after I tightened the belt down as it was a bit loose. And iirc that's what happened the first time it broke on me a while back.. I think I found that the nut is supposed to be torqued to 25 ft lbs. Which isn't much. I probably doubled that. I figured it would have to be pretty tight. And the top pivot bolt is 35 or 38. I think I'm just gonna buy a new bracket and use some large hardened washers instead of the spacer. Hopefully that'll do it.
What's the best method to checking the pulleys? Just looking at it closely to see if one's wobbling or is there a trick to it?

 

yep just watch the edge to see how much wobble there is side to side or up or down, I dont think any of them are perfect so if the belt doesn't seam to be vibrating much then it should be ok.

I would suggest you use a wide washer to help distribute the point of compression and ad a lock nut so it stays tight without much force but it doesn't look like you have room for anything like that. is that the correct oem alternator? that bolt looks short on threads for the nut

 

Yeah that's what I was trying to say, larger hardened washers to "distribute" the surface area or whatever.. But no that spacer(the one behind the nut, that looks rusted in the pic above) is pressed in and can be taken out fairly easily. Then I'd just put I'm the correct amount of washers to fill the gap. Because that spacer seems like it's a couple hairs too thick. But way too much of a gap without it. As I had tried both ways when I first got it. And no not oem, it's a DC Power Engineering h/o alt. But is an "oem fit direct bolt on." But, I think they got that spacer a little wrong. Or at least could've made something better. As I said, it was a tight fit. Or maybe Toyota could've made a sturdier bracket one. Idk. I'm just rambling..

Edit: Oh and I have watched the belts and pulleys before once. Nothing seemed odd. The belts themselves didn't wobble or vibrate or anything like that. I'll have to check it again once I get it fixed. Thanks y'all. I'm gonna go ahead with the washer idear and see how it comes together.

 

Welp, I finally got around to swapping out the lower bracket that broke. Went to remove the alternator so I could remove that lower spacer, and discovered another break on the top of the case where it bolts up on the pivot arm!! So I put my stock alt in and decided to call DC. Asked if they had any similar issues with this and if it was maybe something I was doing wrong. He said the only thing that really causes that is over torquing the bolts. So I guess it is just me. Like I said I had looked up the torque specs and noticed they weren't that much. Like 35 for top pivot bolt and 25 iirc for the lower adjustment nut. So I think I have just torqued them down too much by hand. I think I've been tightening them down a little too much as my belt has become loose a couple times... Idk, I just didn't think that tightening it down a little more than usual would cause this. But I guess I learned my lesson. Always torque your shit to spec. Ha. Guess I'll have to order up a torque wrench as I just recently lost access to tools...

Anyways, I think he kinda avoided answering my question regarding if this is an issue that has happened before, as he went right into saying he could replace the case for me no problem. 5 minute call and I'm taken care of so Ima happy camper. Shipping out the alt to them today. He said he was gonna take the whole thing apart anyways and make sure everything looks good since I've owned it for over a year now.

 

glad they will fix it for you, is it costing you anything or is it they are treating it like a warranty thing?

 

Yeah they seem pretty legit. As I said, I called not expecting the world and they didn't have any problem replacing the front case, and on top of that inspecting the internals too while they're at it just because.
So yeah like a warranty. Just whatever it costs me to ship is all.

 

Got my alternator back today!! With a brand new shiny billet case on it. One damn sexy looking alt if you ask me

Gonna slap it back on tomorrow. Good thing because I can't stand the flickering lights anymore with the stock alt. Guess I'll be careful from now on not to over tighten the alt. I'm just gonna leave the spacer they put on there and not use the washers I bought. If it breaks again 6 months or so down the road, then I'll have to try it.

Mm just look at 'er

 

What is the total amperage output and what output @ idle?
Where did you get it and what is the cost?
Thanks.

 

Here's the three that they offer for the 3.4
Mine is the 180, cheapest version, but it ain't cheap, I should say the least expensive. ha. It was like $409 or so after shipping.

https://www.dcpowerinc.com/high-out...&model=Tacoma&year=2001&engine=3.4L+V6+5VZ-FE

 

what the hell man! what are you running to need that much power and at those prices????? you running a welding machine off of your truck?

 

Lmao. I know. Well the stock alt is pretty darn wimpy. I'm running 550+ watts in lights. Along with my stereo. 1500 watt amp. Was a huge strain on system with stock alternator. Along with flickering lights. Even having some lights disconnected atm, when I put the stock alt in awaiting the dc to get fixed, running about 380 watts in lights with just my 42" and 20", was experiencing slight flickering with radio turned up. And eventually I'll be getting a winch. And even more lights