Dash light circuit?

So I installed a pair of rigid duallys and I didn’t want to use their lame on/off switch that comes in the box. I found these custom switches from www.ch4x4.com that fit perfectly in the blank spots by the fog light switch.

Problem is, the custom switch has an internal back light that’s ALWAYS on unless you connect it to the “dash light circuit” which would then allow it to only be on when the truck is on.

Anyone know where can I splice into the dash light circuit?

 

Green wire going to illumination circuit 12 VDC, Green with white stripe is the return. The brightness is controlled by the ground wire ( green with white stripe) through the rheostat.

http://www.customtacos.com/tech.old...toyewd/06toypdf/ewd/2006/tacoma/h/em01d10.pdf

 

Thanks!
I’m not too savvy with wiring diagrams like that. So do I connect to the green with white? And is that wire around the mini fuse panel behind the switches?

 

Connect your red 2 from switch to green and black from switch to green/white. This would dim the integrated switch light with the dash lights.

I used a simpler method and installed an add a circuit with 5amp fuse that turns on the led inside the switch at position 1 on the light switch stalk. I have 5 ch4x4 switches run in this configuration on the same add a circuit.

I haven't laid eyes on a diagram like that but would say that jimmyh's recommendation is far superior to my solution.

 

In Accordance With your picture in your post above:

The illumination circuit " Red 2 Wire " will connect to the Solid Green Wire of your truck for a 12 VDC power source. You could tap into any of the other illumination circuits in the dash such as any illuminated push button or the AC Control look at the print I posted.

Then the "Black Wire" from your picture will connect to any of the Green With a White Strip Wires. Then the illumination for the button will come on with the dash lights and dim with the rheostat.

This will also keep the illumination circuit separate from the load circuit.

 

Thanks I’ll try that tmw.
Honestly I’d be happier just cutting out the led inside the switch. The green doesn’t match the rest of the interior switch lights. It’s a deep green and too bright.

 

I ran without the backlighting for some time awhile back. The switch setup had my green connected to an add a circuit (ignition switched from fuse behind left compartment) and the red 1 to trigger the relays to my accessories. You can always leave red 2 and black disconnected to omit the led.

I ended up preferring not to fumble in the dark to activate switches though.

 

Dash dimming will make it come on with the headlights like the rest and dim along with them but it will still be brighter. Relative max brightness is controlled by a 1/4W resistor on each led in the switch, usually 1-3k ohms. To get them in the same ballpark as the stock switches those resistors need to be around 10k ohms more or less(depends on the switch and whether it has an icon or a window). If you can solder you can quell the OCDemons. Mess with the leds too for that matter.

 

Here's a pic of the switch guts.
R1 on the left controls max bightness of the illuminnation led and
R2 on the right does the same for the switch"on" led. All that housing for an itty bitty switch. Mostly for the leds, resistors, and plug receptacle.

 

I just cut the black wire and left the red 2 disconnected. No back light looks closer to factory than the bright green it comes with.




Thanks Tacoma World!

 

Here’s my tap job. I de-pinned the illumination circuit wires from the adjacent switch and tacked on the new wires to the end of the pin with solder, then reset the pins into the connector.

The lights on the new switch work as expected but @bagleboy is right on regarding relative brightness. I'm going to tackle that issue after I finish replacing the bulbs in all the other switches with LEDs, not sure which color yet.

 

What did you use to de-pin the connector? That's a nice way to do it and consistent if you can daisy chain all of the switches in one bank.

 

Take the VSC switch out, use a test probe to check for voltage when you turn the headlights on and off. Whichever wire changes with the lights is the illumination wire, tap your 2nd red wire into that wire from the vsc switch. The words will illuminate when your dash lights illuminate and the image will illuminate when you activate the switch

 

I used a super tiny standard screwdriver. I was able to release the pin by going in from the wire side of the connector.

 

Thanks, I'll give that a try when I get around to that step.

 

If I get a second pair of ditch lights, and didn’t want to run a new set of wires over to the switches, is there any harm in just connecting to the harness of the first pair? I would want them to be on at the same time anyway...

 

If it's powered through the switch only then no, too much current for this particular switch(3A max) though other types can handle up to 20A. If it's powered through a relay then yes. The relay can handle the current for both. The question is can the wiring for each set handle the current for both? The fuse to the relay needs to supply both sets of lights but protect each set of wires. If the wiring is not adequate for the fuse you'd have to use then you'd better off installing a second relay and using the one switch to operate both relays fused separately.

 

Another way to do it is connect both sets to one relay and have a fuse on each set after the relay. You'll still need both the wire and the fuse that supplies the relay to be rated for the total current.

 

Ya I was talking about splicing into the harness before the switch not from the switch.
You make a good point about the load so I might as well run a new line all the way to the same switch.

Side note, I’m not using any relay the rigids just came with a harness that only has an in-line fuse. And it’s working.
What’s the benefit of adding a relay?

 

Most LEDs won't require a relay as they pull very low amperage. A relay is an electronically controlled switch that diverts power directly from the battery to your accessories vs having the power run through the switch. Higher power applications will mostly utilize a relay.

I tend to play it safe, although it may not be totally necessary, and run relays on my lighting. I like to keep the hot wires in the engine bay and not running through my cabin. Not to mention relays can handle 30-40 amps easily whereas switches are typically rated around 10.

I am running a total of 6 LEDs plus my air horns and hella horns. I have front LEDs on one relay and the rears on another. The horns are running an individual relay each.