Cylinder Head Removal Questions

Hi all. I'm in the process of pulling my 2.7L cylinder head (burnt cylinder 3 exhaust valve) and have a few questions. This is the first time I've done internal engine work, so I'm being very cautious.

1. Getting the cam timing gear off was probably the biggest challenge to date. Got it off, along with the cams. In my struggles, the cams did turn a bit. I re-aligned them timing marks prior to pulling the cams, however I just noticed the notch on the pulley advanced a bit. Is this an issue? Should I turn the pulley slightly counter clockwise now that the cams are off to get it back to TDC? Sort of related, all material I've seen says to turn clockwise -- is turning counter clockwise a no-no?

2. Is a standard 14mm 12-point socket the correct socket for the head bolts?

3. I got all nuts holding the exhaust manifold to the block off. Does the manifold need to full be removed, or will I have enough play to get the cylinder head off?

4. Any suggestions for things to replace during the job? Fuel filter, head gasket, valve cover gasket, head bolts, etc?

Edited to add #5 - I read elsewhere to check valve clearances prior to removal. I neglected to do this. Is this really necessary? I'm assuming when I have the valve job done, the shim clearances will possibly change anyhow and will need to be adjusted during re-install. Correct?

Thanks!
Jeff

 

You can turn it back a little to TDC. It shouldn't matter if you turn it counterclockwise. I think that matters more if the timing chain or belt is installed while you are turning it. What really matters is that the cams and crankshaft are aligned after everything is back together.

Did you put the service bolt in the exhaust cam gear before removing the camshafts?

Yes. Try not to use an old worn out socket. You don't want to risk stripping a head bolt.

I'm not sure. Maybe if you disconnect the exhaust pipe from the transmission bracket it will slide over far enough.

PCV grommet, valve cover nut washers. Clean intake manifold and throttle body. Remove and clean IAC valve and replace gasket if you have the time. Replace injector spacers, o-rings, grommets and insulators.

Yes, check the valve clearances after you reinstall the cams. You'd think the shop that works on it would adjust them, but mine were out of spec after I reinstalled.

If you leave the shims and buckets in the head, then don't turn the head over after removing it or the shims/buckets will fall out and get mixed up. If you remove the buckets first make sure you keep your hand underneath because they are very slippery. A magnet tool works well to pick the shims/buckets out. A machine shop will want the shims, buckets, cams and cam bearing caps.

 

Thanks DrZ.

#1 - Gotcha. I did turn it back counterclockwise a few times before I was able to break the timing gear bolt off. Looks like this is bad technique...hopefully I didn't do any harm? Yes, I put the service bolt in the exhaust cam gear. I did NOT remove the distributor gear on the exhaust camshaft - its in the service manual but I couldn't see any reason why (and the procedure to remove looked similar to the timing gear, which I did not enjoy getting off).

#2 - Sounds good. I got a few fresh sockets (both regular and deep, 3/8" and 1/2") and a breaker bar (& pipe)...so at least I have the right tools...

#3 - Sounds good. Once I get the head bolts off, I'll see what I might need to do on the exhaust manifold side.

#4 - Sounds good. Should I clean the injectors as well?

#5 - Thanks for these tips!

(Added) #6 - I was going to wait to ask about re-assembly, but --- Is the factory service manual pretty complete in regards to re-installing everything (procedure-wise, specifications-wise, etc) or should I consult anything else as well? I plan to do some internet search as well to make sure I don't miss any good tips/tricks/etc.

Thanks!

 

What happens if you forget to put a service bolt in the exhaust cam prior to removal?

 

The gear is two pieces and one is spring loaded onto the other. Without the service bolt the one gear will rotate relative to the other. If you reinstall it this way the engine will be noisy. The purpose of the spring is to help the gears mesh better to the intake gear.

You can turn the gear with a tool and insert a service bolt before reassembly if you forgot to put it in before you removed it.

 

To OP, don't use those green scrub pads to clean the block surface. They have fibers that get in the oil and can destroy the engine.

The block is iron so you can use a razorblade scraper lightly without damaging it. The aluminum head is easier to damage so you should use a plastic scraper if you were cleaning it youself. You can find more info online on how to clean the block.

 

When I did head gasket few years back I had to remove exhaust manifold - it was PITA as bolts are half way down (used long socket extension) and very rusty. But I did not have enough play to take the head off with manifold in place.

I recommend to get Toyota OEM head gasket set which includes all new gaskets you need. While you are down there it's worth to spend 130 dollars (this is what I paid for the set that time) to get everything done and forget about it for the next 300k miles. At the same time I cleaned everything I had taken out. Again, while it's out why not refresh it to like new condition. Including injectors and replacing fuel filter. When the intake is out you have easy access to the fuel filter, which otherwise is PITA to replace.

 

Alright I got the head out this weekend. I learned a hard lesson - the exhaust manifold bolts at the flange would not budge, so I tried getting the head out by sliding over to the intake side (I should have listened to RysiuM)...and broke the plastic chain guide (see below). Any thoughts on whether I can try adhering the two pieces back together, or should I bite the bullet and replace the guide?

I also found a circular spacer/washer in one of the cylinders -- I strongly suspect this fell in while I was removing the head - anyone have thoughts on what it goes to?

Any gasket set recommendations?
Should I just clean injectors, or replace?
Should I do anything to the bottom end/pistons, or leave as is?

I also added photos of the head and cylinder...let me know what you think!


PS - I was able to easily remove the exhaust hanger bolt (for hanger to transmission) and the exhaust manifold easily shifted out of the way to remove the head.

 

I don't know for sure, but maybe it is one of the washers in fuel delivery side. It doesn't look like it's been there for many miles

You probably know my answer: OEM set (I don't remember part number). While you at it make sure to replace all gaskets you can think of: intake, EGR, or whatever Toyota set has. And clean all intake side from the sludge put by PCV. In my engine that went all the way to valves.

If they work and not leaking I would just clean them.

Built by Toyota, what can go wrong with that . I think rebuilding the bottom end is above my pay grade.

 

Could the washer be part of the head gasket, like from around one of the head bolt holes? The picture is a little blurry but maybe the 2nd bolt hole on the left?

I'd replace the guide, but I'm not sure if you can do it without removing the timing chain cover!

 

Thanks DrZ & RysiuM -- really hoping/being optimistic that someone will chime in that I can fix the guide and not replace...otherwise I have plenty to do while the head is at the machine shop.