CV axle replacement

About 3 weeks I had a torn CV seal (pass. side) and when I brought it into my friends shop, he suggested we just replace the whole axle since it was basically the same labor charge, so I did. Today, with the truck on the lift, I noticed that when I spun the tire, it would clunk a bit. It would stick and then turn. When I tried the driver side, that spun much more easily. There also looked like transmission fluid was leaking around the boot. I’m assuming the tire should spin as easily on both sides, correct?

 

This was right underneath.

 

I am assuming that you replacing the CVs with parts store brand? Looks like you have 5100s? what setting are you on?

The parts store CVs don't have as much range (or strength) as the OEM ones do. So that could be your first issue. If you've got those 5100s cranked to max lift, it would make the binding more prominent.

If you core'd your OEM CVs, your friend totally screwed you.

These trucks use ATF in the power steering system as well. So you should check around those systems as well.

 

First things first - Did you take a look at your transmission send/return cooler lines? Maybe something got tweaked when they were installing the CV? I would also check around the radiator to be sure nothing is leaking.

 

I just did 5100's and 2.5" lift and my OEM boots only lasted a few days. In doing some research it's pretty apparent that OEM axles are the way to go for durability, however with a lift you need the extended travel boots so they don't rub. Rather than have my truck down while rebuilding my stocks, I decided to try out these Extended Travel axles from Trakmotive, they sell them a lot of places but Rock Auto is the cheapest at around $110 each, NAPA sells the exact same thing for $250.

See them here: https://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinf...xrfHqTHtOktUd225PFhazHJomd5AMkUBZUViK7oVoftOG

Looks like your buddy sold you a basic aftermarket axle, which you'd be hard pressed to find many people on here that endorse them.

As mentioned earlier, hopefully you still have your OEM axle.

 

quality though?

 

Ugh. I definitely don’t have my OEM axle. I’m sure when he swapped it out for the replacement he either tossed it or returned it as a core. What do I do now?

I did check the transmission lines as I noted that the rubber hose going into my aftermarket trans cooler had a crack and it was leaking, but that is located in front of the radiator. This little puddle was dripping through the lower control arm.

 

Gear oil and ATF smell and feel very different.

 

Gravity (?) Check around your steering rack. Check the boot/clamp.

For an OEM CV, check the forum (1st gen marketplace or @zippsub9 - he's in NY I believe), or try ebay/a local salvage yard.

Since you didn't mention if its an ADD or Manual Hub setup, I'll link both:

ADD CV Axle -
https://www.ebay.com/itm/364081986677 (FREE SHIPPING)

Manual Hub CV Axle -
https://www.ebay.com/itm/204119167377 (FREE SHIPPING)

for a local salvage yard search -
https://car-part.com/index.htm

EDIT:
Also check in with @Tour991. He might have one.

 

Tons show up for sale on the forum, even locally just look around before you go buying online as shipping will cost more than it's worth.

I threw one away and gave away several others already over the years...not hard to accidentally come across one for cheap or free.

 

Appreciate all the help! Thank you. A couple of dumb questions.

1. Can the OEM CV axles be rebuilt? If so, is there someone on the forum that offers that service?

2. my truck has the automatic 4WD, not the manual hubs.

3. I am not sure if the settings on my Bilstien shocks. The same shop that did my CV joint installed them a couple of years back. How do I tell what setting it is?

4. do all the OEM CV joints have green covers on the axle? I think my driver CV is still the original.

5. In this photo (driver side) the CV boot fins look like they are touching. Im assuming this means there is too much angle. How do I fix this?

Thanks everyone!

 

no dumb questions here…

1. Not anyone that I know of but you can actually do it yourself. You’ll need some basic tools but it’s not difficult. Toyota sells the reboot kit (P/N 04438-04021) and there are tutorial vids as well as a thread by @turbodb (https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads/how-to-rebooting-a-tacoma-cv-axle.604695/).

https://youtu.be/5bTJRzrv4iA

https://youtu.be/hv_fTLGFais

2. The original Toyota CVs had a green sticker/wrap on them. The blue sticker/wrap is for manual hub CVs. On the Toyota 4Runner, if I remember correctly the manual CVs had a black shaft - no sticker.

3. Someone else will have to answer this one, I've never run 5100s. I believe you have to disassemble the coilover to do it correctly, not sure. Check here:
https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads/how-to-adjust-bilstein-5100-shock-during-install.174253/

4. Yep, green wrap/sticker.

5. Is this photos with the truck still on the rack? If not, get it on the ground and give us another pic.

 

3rd Gen 4Runner never had manual hub cv axles, only ADD but yes they were black.

 

Thanks. The photo was of the truck up on the lift. I will take some photos of the truck on the ground tomorrow I will also take a look at the video you sent. I have a pretty well-equipped garage and am not afraid to tackle the rebuild. I did a bit of reading on the differential drop that Wheelers sells, so am wondering if I need that. It’s only $30 and seems like a pretty straightforward install. But I’ll wait until I send you photos of the CV angles with truck on the ground. My next upgrade was going to be a set of UCAs (also need a front bumper - have different thread on that). I believe the aftermarket UCAs also help with CV angle. Do I have that correct?

 

When the front end is off the ground, you're at full droop so your CV's are definitely going to be angled. I chose not to go the diff drop route. Some folks swear by them others are of the opinion they can actually contribue to wear. Anyway, it's a judgement call. Do the searching here and decide for yourself.
After I converted to 4WD, here's how my CV boots look (again, no diff drop).

 

Thanks Area51. How did you keep the CV angles from getting too severe? Yours look perfectly level. How much lift are you running?

 

Less lift, less angle.

 

Thanks, details in signature line (OME Full Kit - 881s, Dakars w/AAL, Nitros, OME Shackles).

Oh one more thing I'd like to recommend. I'd replace the LBJ bolts (90119-10933) if you do additional CV work. No way of knowing how or what torque the shop used if they removed them. Being as critical as they are, I'd replace them. Low cost and piece of mind. Torque them to 37ft lbs.

Reference this if you haven't already.
https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads...s-wanted-about-lower-ball-joint-bolts.772506/


EDIT:
FWIW, those CVs in my pictures - @zippsub9 worked up a nice pair for me.

 

I'll soon find out, they look really nice in person and the way they extended is pretty cool. I'm not a a hardcore off-roader but I have a 2.5" lift and hoping these don't blow out super fast.

You can search for more info but here's a recent thread... https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads/extended-travel-cv-axles.767473/

 

Yeah, those are all pics I posted on there.

Boots still tear, but the cv axles flexed amazingly well.